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in other news, our shop is having a free open house on Sunday which might be something like a car meet/open tours of the shop and open diagnostic scan tool day. We're not allowed to use any of the lifts or tools to do work, but if you need/want to pull codes or use any scan tools or just check out the school, come on down!
AND>>>>
free dyno pulls (2WD only) if you come in time and the dyno hasn't overheated. I got roped into strapping down cars, so you'll see me too!
dyno details:
*it's a mustang dynamometer
*its circuit boards are probably acting up, so we're getting probably ~ 90% accuracy with pulls
*you get 3 pulls in any combination: power curve and/or quarter mile sprint
*the owner of the vehicle MUST be present and have a valid ID.
*you sign a waiver, of course
*slammed cars will take a VERY long time to get on the lift, so you'll make everyone else waiting in line angry
*automatic transmission cars MUST be OBDII. All 2WD manual trans. welcome
*we don't have a printer, so if you want the results, bring a camera/phone to snap images of the results screen
CCBC Catonsville campus.
800 S Rolling Road
Catonsville, MD
in other news, our shop is having a free open house on Sunday which might be something like a car meet/open tours of the shop and open diagnostic scan tool day. We're not allowed to use any of the lifts or tools to do work, but if you need/want to pull codes or use any scan tools or just check out the school, come on down!
AND>>>>
free dyno pulls (2WD only) if you come in time and the dyno hasn't overheated. I got roped into strapping down cars, so you'll see me too!
Auto Tech building (parking lot #7/8)
Sunday July 12 10am-4pm ish
I HEARD there might be food trucks, but I'm not sure.
I live on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. Man, I wish I could come to this, but I'm tied up this weekend. Maybe I will be able to break free for a few hours and head up there.
I've concluded the sentra has a bent rod in cylinder 1. I checked the valve lash, and they were all still within spec, so I'm fairly confident that the valves didn't get damaged. The stroke of the cylinder is the same across the engine, but cylinder 1 vs. 4 piston is ~ 3-4mm lower in the cylinder. the additional volume in the combustion chamber resulted in the low compression (yet no leakage). The clacking is coming from the timing chain, so I'll replace it, the tensioner, and the guides when I pull it apart. That'll be next after I finish the truck..
progress on the truck- fitted bank 2 head with shims. Didn't have time to get Bank 1 done (had to have my crash course on vehicle-dyno strapping ), so that'll be tomorrow. THEN> order a handful of shims and some misc. gasket and we'll be finally going somewhere.
seriously considering putting an off-road snorkel on that thread-stealing sentra turd. Still can't believe I was stupid enough to drive it right through a flash flood.
I live on the Eastern Shore of Maryland. Man, I wish I could come to this, but I'm tied up this weekend. Maybe I will be able to break free for a few hours and head up there.
cool! No worries if you can't make it. I'm pretty sure our school wants to start doing more of these things somewhat regularly, so there will be more. Plus, we're getting a new AWD dyno in the next few months, so I'm sure there will be the necessary breaking in/verifying calibration, of course
update: rumor is we're moving the dyno outside, so I guess if you come, just find some parking in those lots in front of the building.
and because we're the toyota program, we reattached the side skirts and have this right out front
Last edited by LolaL; Jul 10, 2015 at 02:52 PM.
Reason: more event updates!
had a decent turnout for dyno day. Hot and humid, and had some computer overheating problems, but we were able to complete pulls for about a dozen vehicles.
I was about to rag on the T100 for not doing the dyno any justice until I remembered this thread is for a 3VZ-E rebuild!
haha, seems like everything's been detracting from the actual, original thread title. I should change it to "Lola's rebuild of a knocking 3VZE: or how school, work, and a turdy sentra get in the way"
Going to order the remaining shims for the lifters today- might be in for pickup in a few days. (hopefully). I checked the valve clearances before taking the heads apart. the intake valves were still within spec, but the exhaust clearances were a bit tight. After reading on Yotatech regarding valve lash, I'm adjusting the intake valves to about the middle of the cold spec (~ 0.009") and the exhaust valves to be on the slight loose side (0.012"). Will check again when the engine is hot, as repair manual recommends.
*intake cold spec: 0.18-0.28mm (0.007-0.011")
*exhaust cold spec: 0.22-0.32mm (0.009-0.013")
I'll have open shop time on Friday, so as long as I'm done with all my school labs, I'll hopefully be able to make some progress. I'll of course share pictures as I go.
That's pretty awesome! I did not realize you where going to school at cattsonville lol For the last 2 months Iv been working on the addition construction project there lol.
That's pretty awesome! I did not realize you where going to school at cattsonville lol For the last 2 months Iv been working on the addition construction project there lol.
no way! I've zipped by that construction site (when the road was still open) on my bike so many times. Probably saw you and never knew. haha. You should stop by sometime and poke your head in the shop! I'm going to check with the instructor, but I'll probably be here Friday on our open lab day.
picking up shims on Thursday! Christmas is early this year, haha.
there were 3 stripped out holes I needed to repair. Of course they were the ones with the dowel pins...trying to remove them
all chewed up
thread-sert (instead of heli-coil)
also had to clean up one of the spark plug holes
almost forgot to knock the freeze plugs back in. This tool ensured equal/correct depth.
head gaskets going on...
on to the R side
I only use my pink nail polish for marking my tools... and now marking the bolts for the 90-degree + 90-degree torque Should have eaten lunch before doing the second 90-degree torque. yay for breaker bar
yay! heads are on!
repair manual didn't suggest putting any sealant around this camshaft rear plate/cup thing housing plug.. I vaguely remember our putting FIPG around the small half-moon plugs on the last valve cover job we did at work. Does anyone do it? I guess it wouldn't hurt, right?
**06-29-2016 edit- you SHOULD throw a thin layer of FIPG around those camshaft covers before installing.. and put some at the 90degree junctions before installing the valve covers. About 1000 miles down the road from the rebuild, I started seeping oil out of the caps... I guess the truck couldn't stand not having any corrosion preventative all over its back side. :/
Last edited by LolaL; Jun 29, 2016 at 11:05 AM.
Reason: terminology
Any folks have success with repair sleeves for camshaft and crankshafts that have grooves in them from old seals riding on them? I've been searching, but (like most things), there are mixed reviews. I don't want to develop an oil seal right after everything gets put together!
... repair manual didn't suggest putting any sealant around this camshaft rear plate/cup thing housing plug.. .... Does anyone do it? I guess it wouldn't hurt, right?
I don't do it, and I wouldn't do it. I don't hold the opinion that I know more than the engineers who wrote the FSM.
You should not need any sealant around the cam plugs.
I have heard that repair sleeves do work but you will probably have better success without them. The trick is to install the new seals at a slightly different depth then they were originally. So the new seal will be ridding on a non-worn part of the shaft.
I don't do it, and I wouldn't do it. I don't hold the opinion that I know more than the engineers who wrote the FSM.
Originally Posted by superex87
You should not need any sealant around the cam plugs.
I have heard that repair sleeves do work but you will probably have better success without them. The trick is to install the new seals at a slightly different depth then they were originally. So the new seal will be ridding on a non-worn part of the shaft.
k, thanks for the advice. Stupid question about seating the seals at a slightly different position on the crank... will I need to throw in a shim to keep it from moving around? Usually the seal is tapped into place ~ flush with the cover of the oil pump for the front side (I think) and flush with that rear cover in the back. What prevents it from shifting over time (or does it and we just don't know?!)
Originally Posted by Janos01
Engine looks awesome man, throw it in and crank it.
hahahaa. Still need to throw everything else back on first. The school shop was melting this afternoon, so I didn't stay much longer than it took to replace the tundra's wheel bearing/hub.
I've got my Permatex (just noticed the nozzle is broken off.. hope it still works without throwing up everywhere) ready to put the oil pan and everything else on. I think I'm going to take my radiator to a nearby shop and have them clean it up/out while it's out of the truck too. why not, right?
I think I'm going to take my radiator to a nearby shop and have them clean it up/out while it's out of the truck too. why not, right?
In regards to cooling, I would also recommend that you put a good hose on the heater bypass which is behind the engine as once the engine is in the truck its a pain just to see it.
In regards to cooling, I would also recommend that you put a good hose on the heater bypass which is behind the engine as once the engine is in the truck its a pain just to see it.
one of these hoses? or were you referring to something else? I ordered a lot of these a while ago, so I'll find out what I do/don't have once they start being installed.
Jul 9, 2015 | 08:57 AM
