How many cranks before start?
10-31-2013, 11:50 AM
#21
10-31-2013, 12:13 PM
#22
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Mine takes a few turns when it's cold (like 4-5) and she has a brand new fuel pump, fuel tank and fuel filter. lol 10 yr old plugs, cap and rotor oh and wires.. runs good though.. Those items are in my near future. still working on her..
10-31-2013, 12:26 PM
#23
but it starts right up when the weather is warm?
if so, that cranking time when cold could be the cold start valve or the aux air system.
the other thing I wonder about is the role that the fuel pressure regulator plays in this... can it bleed fuel off if something is not right? doesn't seem possible.
if so, that cranking time when cold could be the cold start valve or the aux air system.
the other thing I wonder about is the role that the fuel pressure regulator plays in this... can it bleed fuel off if something is not right? doesn't seem possible.
10-31-2013, 01:00 PM
#24
No Need to Crank To build Fuel Pressure.
If you don't like to crank the engine I found that if you crank it once and release the key (to build fuel pressure) and then crank it again it will fire up immediately
Just put in "Start" position with clutch released and Clutch safety bypass OFF.
This will energize C.O.R. (you will hear a click hear behind glove box) and turn on Fuel Pump. Yes, even before and without airflow. See schematic for final answer
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 10-31-2013 at 08:40 PM.
10-31-2013, 08:21 PM
#25
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Mine is a 22re. Im fixing a big plate of crow. Im eating it, feathers and all.
I aplogoze for the "youre totally wrong" iit was a bad thing to say whether I was right or wrong. Im sorry.
I still swear I have heard the fuel pump energize when in run.
Forgive me for my cocky statement and for being wrong.
But I learned. Thank you for schooling me even though I resited like a crabby old man.
I aplogoze for the "youre totally wrong" iit was a bad thing to say whether I was right or wrong. Im sorry.
I still swear I have heard the fuel pump energize when in run.
Forgive me for my cocky statement and for being wrong.
But I learned. Thank you for schooling me even though I resited like a crabby old man.
10-31-2013, 10:10 PM
#28
Everybody appreciates a good sport Your sig lists an 87 22R, though?
After I disengage my kill switch, still cranks for a long time with no combustion... then I remember I needed to disengage the other kill switch. After I disengage that... still cranks but no combustion... then I remember I need to disengage the 3rd kill switch - LOL!
I haven't seen schematic for the 93 but, assuming your 22RE is wired same as first gen 4Runner, that is expected behavior. The C.O.R. which powers the fuel pump while cranking and before airflow is established only comes on when put in "start" position which also cranks the starter.
Your sig lists an 87 22R, though?I haven't seen schematic for the 93 but, assuming your 22RE is wired same as first gen 4Runner, that is expected behavior. The C.O.R. which powers the fuel pump while cranking and before airflow is established only comes on when put in "start" position which also cranks the starter.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 10-31-2013 at 10:47 PM.
10-31-2013, 10:19 PM
#29
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My problem is that on cold start ignition goes smoothly. But after some driving and when engine is warm I have some trouble. It cranks difficult and after, there is second or two very low idle. Then gets to normal. Is there some cause for that?
11-01-2013, 08:22 AM
#30
however, in the real world, crank = "start" position, so you must crank to build fuel pressure... you can't get fuel pressure without cranking the motor over
unless perhaps the vafm is stuck open.
it's a stupid design, as was pointed out earlier, Honda and other manufacturers turn on the fuel pump when the key is in the "run" position.
11-01-2013, 01:29 PM
#31
true, in theory.
however, in the real world, crank = "start" position, so you must crank to build fuel pressure... you can't get fuel pressure without cranking the motor over
unless perhaps the vafm is stuck open.
it's a stupid design, as was pointed out earlier, Honda and other manufacturers turn on the fuel pump when the key is in the "run" position.
however, in the real world, crank = "start" position, so you must crank to build fuel pressure... you can't get fuel pressure without cranking the motor over
unless perhaps the vafm is stuck open.
it's a stupid design, as was pointed out earlier, Honda and other manufacturers turn on the fuel pump when the key is in the "run" position.
.- Ignition switch in "Start" position powers first coil and turns C.O.R. on -with or without airflow.
- AFM contacts close and powers second coil to turn C.O.R. on when air-flow is established, even after ignition key is released
However, there will be power to C.O.R. That's why you hear it click behind the glovebox. In real world, in an un-molested 22RE, once the C.O.R. clicks nothing will stop it from turning on the fuel pump and building fuel pressure- even if engine were not cranking. See schematic for final answer
11-01-2013, 01:48 PM
#32
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I am really excited I got you guys so interested in this topic...anyway - yes, it takes a little bit longer to start when cold. After it's been started once - it starts very quickly.
Perhaps that supports the idea that it needs to build up fuel pressure?
Perhaps that supports the idea that it needs to build up fuel pressure?
11-01-2013, 02:14 PM
#33
Wow, That's allot of feedback
If you take a look at the wiring diagram that was posted earlier in the thread it looks like the COR relay feeds power to the fuel pump. If you also follow pin 4 (G) from the COR in the diagram it goes to a switch (Pin 2) in the Air Flow Meter. This switch is normally closed when the engine is off. This is used to keep the fuel pump from running when the key is on but the engine is off which is good in cases such as an accident or vehicle roll-over. In this case the key could still be "on" with the engine not running. You don't want the pump running and possibly spraying fuel creating a fire or explosion situation
Just take a look at the diagram and you'll see
If you think it's taking too long to start it could be a bad check valve as posted earlier. A bad check valve can cause longer crank times because when the fuel line has zero pressure it takes longer to build up
HighLux: Apology accepted. It's not a big deal in this case but allot of people use postings on the site to fix their rigs and plan their builds. It can get really expensive really quick depending on the info
If you take a look at the wiring diagram that was posted earlier in the thread it looks like the COR relay feeds power to the fuel pump. If you also follow pin 4 (G) from the COR in the diagram it goes to a switch (Pin 2) in the Air Flow Meter. This switch is normally closed when the engine is off. This is used to keep the fuel pump from running when the key is on but the engine is off which is good in cases such as an accident or vehicle roll-over. In this case the key could still be "on" with the engine not running. You don't want the pump running and possibly spraying fuel creating a fire or explosion situation
Just take a look at the diagram and you'll see
If you think it's taking too long to start it could be a bad check valve as posted earlier. A bad check valve can cause longer crank times because when the fuel line has zero pressure it takes longer to build up
HighLux: Apology accepted. It's not a big deal in this case but allot of people use postings on the site to fix their rigs and plan their builds. It can get really expensive really quick depending on the info
Last edited by Innocent Fool; 11-01-2013 at 02:49 PM.
11-01-2013, 02:39 PM
#34
for instance, would you like to explain that theory to your mom? lol... i'm a degreed electronics tech, but my mom doesn't know a resistor from a capacitor.
however, what you posted there could be a potential troubleshooting step, for people who are seeing these long crank times.
as in, crank for 3-5 seconds with the clutch out, then push the clutch in, while cranking, to see how quickly it starts up... if it fires right up, you might be looking at a fuel pressure/check valve issue.
xlnt job on presenting the material!
11-01-2013, 02:44 PM
#35
Registered User
Wow, That's allot of feedback over a pretty basic thing
If you take a look at the wiring diagram that was posted earlier in the thread it looks like the COR relay feeds power to the fuel pump. If you also follow pin 4 (G) from the COR in the diagram it goes to a switch (Pin 2) in the Air Flow Meter. This switch is normally closed when the engine is off. This is used to keep the fuel pump from running when the key is on but the engine is off which is good in cases such as an accident or vehicle roll-over. In this case you don't want the pump running and possibly spraying fuel creating a fire or explosion situation
Just take a look at the diagram and you'll see
HighLux: Apology accepted. It's not a big deal in this case but allot of people use postings on the site to fix their rigs and plan their builds. It can get really expensive really quick depending on the info
If you take a look at the wiring diagram that was posted earlier in the thread it looks like the COR relay feeds power to the fuel pump. If you also follow pin 4 (G) from the COR in the diagram it goes to a switch (Pin 2) in the Air Flow Meter. This switch is normally closed when the engine is off. This is used to keep the fuel pump from running when the key is on but the engine is off which is good in cases such as an accident or vehicle roll-over. In this case you don't want the pump running and possibly spraying fuel creating a fire or explosion situation
Just take a look at the diagram and you'll see
HighLux: Apology accepted. It's not a big deal in this case but allot of people use postings on the site to fix their rigs and plan their builds. It can get really expensive really quick depending on the info
Yup. When I saw radrunner post, I knew I was in trouble. I can accept when Im wrong. Im not too old to be lernt by youz youngins.
It's why Im here.
11-01-2013, 03:24 PM
#36
This is used to keep the fuel pump from running when the key is on but the engine is off which is good in cases such as an accident or vehicle roll-over. In this case the key could still be "on" with the engine not running. You don't want the pump running and possibly spraying fuel creating a fire or explosion situation
Correction, though... this switch is open when engine is off = there is no airflow.
11-01-2013, 03:30 PM
#37
however, what you posted there could be a potential troubleshooting step, for people who are seeing these long crank times.
as in, crank for 3-5 seconds with the clutch out, then push the clutch in, while cranking, to see how quickly it starts up... if it fires right up, you might be looking at a fuel pressure/check valve issue.
as in, crank for 3-5 seconds with the clutch out, then push the clutch in, while cranking, to see how quickly it starts up... if it fires right up, you might be looking at a fuel pressure/check valve issue.
Of course, in the morning she goes, "Tada-Tada-VROOM"
xlnt job on presenting the material!
11-01-2013, 03:35 PM
#38
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