Hey guys/gals. I have an 89 4runner 3.0 auto stock, I want bigger tires but I need to change the gears. I have heard that newer 4runners like (90-95)’s have 4.88 gears if they are auto, is that right? If so can I take the rear end axle and all and put it in on my truck? Or would I need to take the gears out and do it that way?

Thanks
Craig

 

Uhhhh/
The 89-95 4Runners are coil spring rears. Pull the 3rd member from the housing.
Then, pull the entire front end to match to your IFS.

 

92-95 pickups and 4runners with STOCK 3.0, auto and 31" tires will have the factory 4.88 gears. Look at the sticker in the door jam for the gear code.

Pull the rear third and front diff and swap it into yer rig, it'l bolt in.

As mentioned rear axles on the 90-95 4runners use coils and links, no leaf springs.

 

Ok so take the 3rd out of the back and take the front diff. It will bolt up on my truck?

 

yup just make sure there the right gears! heres a link that will help you determin wich ones wich, i kno 4.10's the end of the pinion is pink mine was...says the 4:88's should be painted white, remember you have to take off the D-shaft to see the end of the pinion link to all yota knowledge http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=775780

 

And if someone has an IFS diff in their back yard that they THINK is 4.88, how do they tell? It's ADD, does that garuntee anything? 39 teeth on the ring? 4.9 stamped on the ring? I'm hoping to be able to tell without pulling the face off of the diff, but if I have to then I will, just hoping there's some exterior indicator.

 

No exterior markings, all the front diffs look the same.

Gotta pull the cover, or perhaps rigging the ADD up and spinning the pinion and counting the rotation of one of the cv shafts..

 

he shouldn't have to rig up the ADD to make it work...
The passengers side output should still spin, and since there is no resistance on both sides, both will spin...

 

Has anyone done this that can tell me how hard it is? Anything i would have to change line brake lines or something in the front?

 

No...
All you do is drop the front diff.
It's 3 big bolts for the diff, and 12 for the CV.
Idk how many it is for the rear 3rd..

 

By this I'm guessing you mean swapping the third members? It's easy as heck. I can do it in about 2 hours depending on the rust and the tools I have to use. On the front you don't even touch the brake lines so no worries there.

There are several write ups on both the 8" rear third swap and the IFS front. Easy as pie.

 

is there a place where i can find step by step on how to do it? i dont want to "F" it up ha. sorry about all the questions i am trying to learn all of this ha

 

I think Matt16 did a write up on swapping the rear third (search for it). Pretty much anything you read from Matt is gospel, man knows his stuff. The front third has been covered on here somewhere but I can't remember who did it. It's really pretty easy.

Keep asking questions, it's how we learn, just don't be upset by all the "search" advice. Most of this has been covered several times.

Have fun!

 

Check the door jam for the axle codes:
G292 - 4.10 with 2 pinions
G294 - 4.10 with 4 pinions
G254 - 4.56 with 4 pinions
G144 - 4.88 with 4 pinions
I don't know what the 4.30 axle code is.

To figure out what diff you have sitting in your backyard. Count the teeth on the pinion and the ring gear, divide number teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion.

If it's ADD or still in the axle:
Have someone hold one side of the axle.
Mark where the pinion and the "free" axle are in comparison to the housing.
Spin the pinion TWICE.
Count how many times the axle goes around.
4.10 will look like 2 spins.
4.56 will look like 2 1/4 spins.
4.30 will look like 2 1/3 spins.
4.88 will look like 2 1/2 spins.

Swapping the front diff.
Eat your wheaties or get a floor jack, that suck is heavy.
Drop out the old one and in with the new.

If you have a non-ADD and swap in an ADD:
This can be done with the diff already installed.
Open the vaccuum actuator cover. Slide the sleeve until it meshes with the gog.
Make the actuator sit in this position.
Check to make sure it doesn't move.
Seal the vaccuum actuator air inlets/outlets with gasket maker or RTV.
Bolt the new diff in place if you haven't already done so.


Rear diff swap:
Wheaties are more optional.
Drain the rear diff by loosen the fill plug and the drain plug on the rear diff.
Unbolt the drive shaft.
Tie it off to the side (very helpful).
Unbolt the four bolts hold the backing plate on the axle, both sides.
Undo your brake lines, both sides.
Put a plastic bag over end and zip tie it (reduce the risk of running your brake fluid reservoir dry.
Pull the backing plate and axles out of the housing. Do not let the axles sit on the seals.
Unbolt the 12 (i think) bolts that hold the housing in place.
Unbolt the ABS sensor on top of the diff (if equiped).
Crack the seal between the diff and the housing.
Get comfortable underneath the diff and coax it out of the housing.

Installing another diff is the same process just in reverse plus a few.
Make sure you apply some gasket maker to the mating surface.
Wait till the gasket is fully cured.
Clean out your diff breather (nipple on top of the axle housing).
Re-fill your diff with appropriate oil (check your manual).
Final step is to bleed your brakes.

 

what is the gear code G284?

 

284 is the 4.30 gear code, via the VIN.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...64/index2.html

 

ok so i have done my homework. now do i go with
4.30?
4.56?
4.88?
i dont do a lot of 4x4ing so not really for that but i want to go up the pass at 55 or 60 with 33's so tell me how it is.

 

4.88's would be your best bet for 33's. 5.29's if you plan on running bigger than 33's.....

 

ok thanks guys hope to have it done soon.

 

Count the teeth on the ring and divide that number by the teeth on the pinion = gear ratio.

IE. 41 ring/10 pinion = 4.10 gears
39/8 = 4.88