agatto2

I acquired a 94 4runner automatic transmission, 4x4 in pretty good shape... just over 200k

I want to change all the fluids and drain the transmission pan to add 5 quarts or so and clean the pan

However i am asking the pros what I should use for the transmission?

The fluid is a slight brown but not burnt and i have a feeling its never been changed.....

I did look around the forums for 1/2 hour but really found nothing that helped me answer the question with confidence.

The rest of the fluids i have under my command

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Any trans fluid that's rated for a Toyota. There are oil/fluid threads all over about this. Which brand is mainly personal opinion.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

What ever ATF you can buy local DEXRON II

Myself I would go with the cheapest run it about 1000 miles and change again

agatto2

Thanks ...

I seen other posts however i am figuring that someone has a "go to transmission fluid" for older trucks that have 200k on them? But i have not run across that post yet....

What i am leaning towards right now is the "valvolene max life dex/merc 75000" or the royal purple which is very expensive


I really dont want to do a full flush...

T

agatto2

9 thats what i was thinking... 500 miles and do another and another untill the fluid clears up...

Is the dextron 2 the proper fluid?

t

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Yes!!

I think people can be sold on the Hype of big name brands with a large advertising budget.

I have been using private label lubricants for years with no problem but the lower cost.

Pitt Penn and Wolfs head that very few have heard of no doubt.

Heat Kills any lubricant over time. One needs to change the high priced fluids as often as the no name brands.

bswarm

Do you want cheap or good? I only use full synthetic fluids in everything. I use Mobile 1 for the engines (except the Toy gets Castrol 20w-50), Redline D4 for the automatics (and some manuals), and Valvoline full synthetic gear oil for other manuals and diffs. Except for a valve cover gasket and shifter seat, no other repairs have been done to anything on the drivetrain since I bought them new off the lot. I don't drive them easy either. I do my oil changes every 4000 miles or 1 year, trans and diff every 30k-60k depending on fluid condition.

agatto2

Not cheap... just right...

what syn is required for the auto transmission in the 94 4runner

agatto2

and can it be mixed with what is in the tranmission now (prob dexron ll )

bswarm

Just make sure it's the same fluid type. Redline D4 covers most applications, if you use a different brand check the label to make sure it's the same as your trans takes. And yes it mixes with dino-oil.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

You run full synthetics and still change it at 4000 miles? Have you even ran a oil analysis on it?

bswarm

That's 4000 or once per year, they don't get over that many miles in 1 year. Dino oils would break down leaving it in for a year, so that's why full synthetic. I do an oil blot test once in a while, it's always ok.

agatto2

Whats an oil blot test.. never heard of that

Also how in the world would i know what fluid is already in there? If i cant figure that i should probably go with the Red....

t

agatto2

So they dont make the dexron ii any more, and i have read a few posts that say the iii is the same product....

i found Pennzoil Auto Transmission Fluid Dexron-III/Mercon 1 Quart Bottles 12 Pack on ebay for $3 per quart if you buy a 12 pack... and i will be changing the thing a few time i bet.

This sounds like a plan that might work for this situation... then run it for 30k when the fluid is pink and then maybe flush....

t

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

All auto trans fluid is red…

agatto2

I ment " Redline D" should have typed that

Marc

Dexron III is backward compatible with II.
Any name brand will be fine.
It can take quite a few changes to get i looking good again.

bswarm

An oil blotter test is: Put a drop of old oil on the back of a business card, leave it sit between a few hours to a full day, look at the pattern it leaves. There's a good write-up of how it works here... http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...nt-dispersancy
but you can just use a business card, coffee filter, or paper towel and skip the part where it says to heat it up. Also, look at the sample in bright sunlight for sparkling/glittering, any you find is bad. I've had customers come in with oil that sparkled like a car with a metallic paint job.