just don't act like you don't know what you're talking about.
tell them it came out of your brother's truck, and you want them to take a look at it.
tell them you were thinking honing would be enough but you don't have a micrometer to check and you want their opinion.
and if it's not too much, they can do the work.

 

Is that because they might just hone it to make money?

I was thinking the same thing.

Or were you thinking something else? Thanks!

 

well, I think it should be honed anyways.
I just don't want them to tell you it needs an overbore if it doesn't.

 

Thats what I'm worried about. I think I'll take it to a couple different shops and get there opinion. Thanks!

 

you're going to pay for each opinion....

 

They make you pay for opinions? Maybe just getting the tool will be cheaper? lol.

Okay, how do I know the walls are good or bad? Like if they need to be bored or not. I mean my brothers truck has been going for 258k miles and shouldn't mine too without needing to be bored and all that? <- I know being taken care of also is a major factor.

 

Okay...I looked at my cylinder walls again. Last time was a couple months ago. Anyway. The only groove I feel in all cylinders is in #3. Honestly its pretty hard to feel. And I think I'm just going to hone it and install my new parts and call it good. Unless you think I still need to take it to a machine shop. I used to have an old 460 sitting in my garage (for a bad project) and the grooves were pretty bad. So I know what they can be.

 

if your fingernails don't get 'caught' in the grooves where you can feel it, then you're most likely only gonna need to hone it.
if you don't know how to hone, then maybe a shop would be a good place to go though.
you want the 'scratches' the honing stones leave in the cylinder walls to be slanted at about what degree angle?

 

I think it's 30*. I'll have to check my notes from my rebuild to make sure.

From what I remember of your pics, a honing is all it looked like you needed. But, like I said before, you'll need to check the ring end gaps at the top, middle, and bottom of the cylinder bores to make sure. If the cylinder's tapered out of spec....which occurs most often towards the top...you'll need them bored to straighten it out. Most likely they're not out of round, but you should be able to notice this when you start honing the first cylinder. Someone here at YT told me they used a light coat of spray paint on the first cylinder and watched the cross hatch pattern for any variations within the pattern being made. If the cylinder's out, then the patterning would be deeper in one area or so over another. Maybe you should start at #3 since that was the one with the busted rings?

This is kind of the "budget" way of doing it, but it works. Afterall, you can get a micrometer and check with that. Then, you could even check you're crankshaft. Or did you do that already with the plastigage? I think you did.

 

Crappola..........double post...pffffffffft!

 

like thook said, the cylinders usually develop a taper that is wider at the top than at the bottom of the stroke. and if you don't have a noticible ridge at the top of the cylinder bores, you likely don't have any significant taper.
so you could put one of the compression rings in at the top of a cylinder and measure and record the end gap with feeler gauges, then using a pistion tap the ring down the cylinder and measure the end gap with feelers at 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4 down and record those readings. also check that the ring is in contact with the cylinder wall 360 degrees around. use a flashlight from behind to check.
you'll immediately see if you've got any taper or out-of-round, and if so, how bad it is. then you'll know if it should go to a machine shop.

 

The engine is now out

I thought the hone angle was supposed to be at 45 degrees.

Okay. What type of hone? There is the stone type...and isn't there the brush type? I bought one a while back and returned it.

I get what your saying...and it sounds like a breeze. It should be pretty easy to do. Hopefully all checks out just fine and I'll just need a good hone!

 

That flashlight trick's a cool idea'r, Kirk. I'll have to remember that one.

 

That is!

 

Any developments as of late?

 

Yep. Block is out and bare! Bad news...it will probably need to be bored. Okay...Imagine a normals groove in a cylinder wall. This is odd. It doesn't stick out...it goes in away from the piston. Its odd shaped...and uneven all the way around in #3 cylinder. I "could" slap everything back together. Or just take it to the machine shop and have it bored. I will need to take the piston/rings back if it does need to be. Hopefully engnbldr is that nice and we can simply just do an exchange.

Suggestions? I shouldn't have bought the rebuild kit before I knew what I needed. Lesson learned

 

Suggestions?

 

#3 was the one that was low on compression, with the broken rings, no?
so you've got scored cylinder walls.
if you don't have the proper tools to check the depth of the gouges, take it to a shop. then maybe talk to engnbldr.

 

Surging idle huh? Well I had that same problem for over a year. It seemed to stop after I changed the head gasket. I don't know if it was a vacuum hose I changed or the head gasket itself. I also got a ton of oil blow-by when the gasket was blown... that's my 2 cents.

 

Ted and Todd are both nice gentlemen. If you've not opened everything and gotten grease all over it or tried assembling everything yet (sorry....don't quite remember how far along you've gotten) I'm sure they'd do an exchange.


@HelliphinoN8......
He's/we've been down the headgasket road already with diagnosing this puppy. It's way early on in the thread, though.