Exhaust nut will not budge.
#1
Exhaust nut will not budge.
Hi all,
Ive been trying to remove my passenger side exhaust manifold so that i can helicoil the head. Problem is that i have one last nut connecting the manifold to the crossover that I cannot break loose. I've been soaking it with kroil for the last week and trying to wrench on it. Even with an impact wrench I cant get this thing to break loose. Im running out of ideas, you guys got any?
Ive been trying to remove my passenger side exhaust manifold so that i can helicoil the head. Problem is that i have one last nut connecting the manifold to the crossover that I cannot break loose. I've been soaking it with kroil for the last week and trying to wrench on it. Even with an impact wrench I cant get this thing to break loose. Im running out of ideas, you guys got any?
#2
Breaker bar, long pipe, and a fat guy. snap that thing off so you can get a pipe wrench(monkey wrench) on the stud, and start praying that doesn't break in the head or you'll be doing more than one coil and some drilling too.
#4
The nut is not located on the head, its holds the crossover pipe to the manifold. So if the stud snaps I wouldnt care too much because i would be able to take the whole manifold out and drill the stud out. Also I tried a breaker bar first and I sheared my swivel. I should say that the way Im getting to this nut is with a swivel and about two feet of extensions.
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#8
#9
Put a half inch drive breaker bar and extensions and slide either slide a small pipe over the end or use the closed end of a big wrench to give more leverage. The bolt will either loosen or break.
#10
Thats how i got the two top ones off but the bottom one wont budge, I ended up shearing my swivel instead. My impact wrench wont even get it off.
#11
If you can't get the leverage, or heat it, or use a spliter/chisle. The only other option is a tougher swivel(beefy impact gun type). There might be something 'm overlooking, like the spliter cause I can't ever get those in where I need em.
#12
I'd be easy on using a giant breaker bar. There's no guaranty that what you break will just be the stud.
I had to remove the manifold and downpipe together, and once I had it on the driveway ground the nut off with an angle grinder. That left the stud, which cleaned up well enough with just a wire brush. You may not be able to do this with the manifold/crossover, in which case the dremel tool route is the way to go.
I had to remove the manifold and downpipe together, and once I had it on the driveway ground the nut off with an angle grinder. That left the stud, which cleaned up well enough with just a wire brush. You may not be able to do this with the manifold/crossover, in which case the dremel tool route is the way to go.
#15
Hey guys thanks for all the suggestions. I ended up getting an impact chisel on the thing. Stud needs to be replaced but thats fine. I think i'll use some anti-sieze when i put it all back together.
#16
Remember that threaded connection is VERY hot in operation. "Ordinary" anti-sieze will just burn away. There is a sort of anti-sieze used on O2 sensors (I think it's glass balls in grease; the grease burns away). YMMV.
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