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Exhaust nut will not budge.

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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 05:44 PM
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buggout95's Avatar
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From: Santa rosa CA
Exhaust nut will not budge.

Hi all,

Ive been trying to remove my passenger side exhaust manifold so that i can helicoil the head. Problem is that i have one last nut connecting the manifold to the crossover that I cannot break loose. I've been soaking it with kroil for the last week and trying to wrench on it. Even with an impact wrench I cant get this thing to break loose. Im running out of ideas, you guys got any?
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 05:50 PM
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From: Colorado
Breaker bar, long pipe, and a fat guy. snap that thing off so you can get a pipe wrench(monkey wrench) on the stud, and start praying that doesn't break in the head or you'll be doing more than one coil and some drilling too.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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From: Columbia River Gorge, Oregon...east side
Dremel tool to gently score the nut and open it with a chisel? A nut splitter may work too. Then clean up the threads with a thread chaser.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 06:01 PM
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The nut is not located on the head, its holds the crossover pipe to the manifold. So if the stud snaps I wouldnt care too much because i would be able to take the whole manifold out and drill the stud out. Also I tried a breaker bar first and I sheared my swivel. I should say that the way Im getting to this nut is with a swivel and about two feet of extensions.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 06:09 PM
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Good idea rworegon. Im considering that one, if i can get the dremmel on it
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 06:52 PM
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I had the same problem, even PB Blaster wouldn't break them loose. Ended up just snapping 2 of the 3 bolts with a long breaker bar. They should be replaced anyway.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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From: All over Canada
Acetylene?
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 87 Deathtrap
I had the same problem, even PB Blaster wouldn't break them loose. Ended up just snapping 2 of the 3 bolts with a long breaker bar. They should be replaced anyway.
Ya I might end up doing that if i cant chissel it off.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 07:18 PM
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From: Gadsden, AL
Put a half inch drive breaker bar and extensions and slide either slide a small pipe over the end or use the closed end of a big wrench to give more leverage. The bolt will either loosen or break.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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From: Santa rosa CA
Originally Posted by BamaYota1
Put a half inch drive breaker bar and extensions and slide either slide a small pipe over the end or use the closed end of a big wrench to give more leverage. The bolt will either loosen or break.
Thats how i got the two top ones off but the bottom one wont budge, I ended up shearing my swivel instead. My impact wrench wont even get it off.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 07:46 PM
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From: Colorado
Originally Posted by buggout95
Thats how i got the two top ones off but the bottom one wont budge, I ended up shearing my swivel instead. My impact wrench wont even get it off.
If you can't get the leverage, or heat it, or use a spliter/chisle. The only other option is a tougher swivel(beefy impact gun type). There might be something 'm overlooking, like the spliter cause I can't ever get those in where I need em.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 10:00 PM
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I'd be easy on using a giant breaker bar. There's no guaranty that what you break will just be the stud.

I had to remove the manifold and downpipe together, and once I had it on the driveway ground the nut off with an angle grinder. That left the stud, which cleaned up well enough with just a wire brush. You may not be able to do this with the manifold/crossover, in which case the dremel tool route is the way to go.
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Old Feb 15, 2013 | 10:11 PM
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From: santa cruz, ca
heat that sucker up it always works for me.

using a swivel with an impact pretty much eats up the torque of your gun
(swivel absorbs the impact)
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 12:50 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

With the 2 extensions and the swivel your getting to much twisting on everything but the nut.

That and the fact it is so hard to even reach up in that area
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 10:58 AM
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From: Santa rosa CA
Hey guys thanks for all the suggestions. I ended up getting an impact chisel on the thing. Stud needs to be replaced but thats fine. I think i'll use some anti-sieze when i put it all back together.
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Old Feb 16, 2013 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by buggout95
.... I think i'll use some anti-sieze when i put it all back together.
Remember that threaded connection is VERY hot in operation. "Ordinary" anti-sieze will just burn away. There is a sort of anti-sieze used on O2 sensors (I think it's glass balls in grease; the grease burns away). YMMV.
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