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Exedy or Toyota OEM Clutch Replacement

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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 05:45 AM
  #1  
Dave Mooney's Avatar
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Exedy or Toyota OEM Clutch Replacement

Ok yotas:

I am replacing a 3.0 clutch at 166K and have located an Exedy pressure plate, disc, throwout bearing and pilot bearing Kit from clutchcity online. $145 shipped to my door. I'll call Evan at Northridge Toyota (25% discount and free shpg.) as well. I see Marlin Crawler's stock kit is $199 + shiipping.

Can anyone advise me of my options. The 94 SR5 4Runner is a stocker. Driven as such. Please advise and thanks in advance. Also I need advise onm how to remove the pilot bearing or where to purchase a pilot bearing puller.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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Pilot bearing is pretty easy, just take some grease and fill the hole where the input shaft rides and take a 3/8's extension which fits almost perfectly and a rubber mallet. Hit the extension and keep filling the hole with grease the grease will not compress and once you get it full it will push the bearing out. I just did mine and was suprised how easy it came out with this method. You don't have to wail on it just some gentle persuasion. The key is keep adding grease.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 03:08 PM
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From: Lacey, WA
check ebay for that exedy kit -- i bought one off ebay for $60 with $20 shipping(which i figure is fair given the price) for my '79, and one for my '91 for the same price. other websites usually charged between $100 and $150 for the same unit.

the pedal feel is a bit lighter(i like a heavy pedal) but other than that i've had no problems, very smooth operation and it's held up fine so far
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 03:24 PM
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I haven't located any great deals under $100. However I did get pointed to a link in the similar threads below my post < JTOutfitters.com> that listed the 3.0 V6 clutch kit as OEM quality at $109 + $20 shipping. Any better leads will be appreciated. Gracious.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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UKMyers's Avatar
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From: Solano Co, CA Originally a North Idaho Hick
I too contemplated on upgrading when I did my clutch last summer but ended up going back with OEM. You can' t really go wrong with them they are pretty dang good. My first one made it 150K and I'm not real nice too it sometimes.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 06:36 PM
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From: San Luis Obispo/Palo Alto
Originally Posted by 1992_4runnerguy
Pilot bearing is pretty easy, just take some grease and fill the hole where the input shaft rides and take a 3/8's extension which fits almost perfectly and a rubber mallet. Hit the extension and keep filling the hole with grease the grease will not compress and once you get it full it will push the bearing out. I just did mine and was suprised how easy it came out with this method. You don't have to wail on it just some gentle persuasion. The key is keep adding grease.
Do you need to remove the greese after or did you just leave it?
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 07:05 PM
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Yes youwat to clean it up througly don't want grease on a clutch makes for slippage.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 07:37 PM
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From: Los Angeles
for something this important, im sticking with OEM. here's what i bought on ebay today:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT

comes with everything, including the adjustment tool.

there's a lot of tips and material out there on replacing your clutch. theres a good writeup on 4x4wire in their 4runner tech section. im hoping to improve on it so we can have one on our site too

bob
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 08:25 PM
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curly_c's Avatar
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From: Rocklin Cali
i was told by the guy who i bought my truck from (15 year toyota tech and 10 lexus tech) that toyota clutches were not that good, a good aftermarket one will outlast OEM by a long time, i too am starting to need a clutch, 150,000+ miles on my original. it has lasted this long but i can def. tell i need a new one, very hard to tell when it engages causing me to either rev high or let RPMs drop fast.

what about centerforce? just another idea.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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You might want to think about a new slave cylinder too. They are only about 15 bucks from autozone I just replaced my clutch and found that the slave cylider was not up to par after the swap. While at it check the rubber hose that goes from the master cylinder to the slave. I had mine dry rot and had to replace. If you are going this far a new one is cheap and you are probabl going to want to bleed the system anyway. You will need flange wrenchs to make it easier to remove the hose.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 01:30 PM
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Did you have to take out just trany/transfer case or the engine?
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