I am really sure you will need a new head gasket because of needing head machine work after losing coolant and overheating. Probably > 90% probability.

A motor with cast iron head and block can handle overheating. A motor like the 22r and 22re with aluminum head and cast iron block can't cope. The head expands more than the block and at high enough temps will warp and need fixing. The way to fix that is to remove the head and have that 'surface machined' to cut away the warp and leave a flat surface. Always replace the head gasket when fixing a warped head. The problem is the head more than the gasket.

 

Well this weekend when I got back into town from college I pulled a radiator at the u pull it, and put it on today when I got back. And as the last thing I wanted to see. I have major air shooting through my radiator and overfill when I rev the engine. At this point I am willing to change the head gasket due to the simplicity of the 22R, but wish there was a way to know if the head warped or cracked so I can order before ripping it apart.

How hard or long might it take me to change the head gasket? And do I absolutely have to have access to a garage? (Because I do not)

 

The air bubbling in the radiator is from the combustion gases leaking from the combustion chamber into the water jacket at very high pressure. Try not to balloon your new radiator. The water jacket surrounds the pistons and the head with passages between the block and head where the gases are entering. The head could be warped or the gasket bad. I would say the head is definitely warped and repairable. The cracked heads are not as common.

I pulled the head on my 22re without difficulty in a shed. I would say doing the work outside should be fine if you cover the block to keep out dust and leaves and mice.

If you have the sockets and wrenches then you should be able to pull the head in a day. Then maybe another day to take the head to a machine shop and have that machined flat. Then maybe another day to replace the head.

A torque wrench is mandatory for the head bolts. Be sure to completely clean out the holes in the block where the head bolts fit before inserting the head bolts.

I bought the head gasket kit from engnbldr.com. Try to borrow a car to use until the Toyota is fixed so you don't have to hurry and the job can be more fun than work.

 

I was looking around and I found a new head and full gasket set for around $300. I just figured I would save up and buy That (what harm would a shiny new head do anyway?) I have all the sockets and tools but will have to borrow a torque wrench from a friend for the head bolts. I am just finding out a way to get the money, as of now I'm just stuck letting it sit.

 

Make sure u get new head bolts. I personally would get arp head studs. I have them and have used them on every motor and have never had an issue with them. They cost about 100-180 depending where u get them.

 

Do not buy an ebay head. Go to engnbldr.com

My ebay head came with a soft cheap cam. It wore out.

Factory toyota head gasket only.

Thats my good deed for the day.

 

What if I was to take my current cam off? and where can I get an OEM gasket set

 

You can use the stock cam if its in good shape. If any doubt. Post a picture.

Engnbldr will set you up with gaskets....just make sure to use a Toyota head gasket. At all costs. No exceptions.

My 87 had an ebay head and cam when i bought it. I sold the truck and got it back with a blown headgasket and wasted cam. After some research...i learned most aftermarket cams...that do not use a toyota blank to make the cam are soft and will wear rather quickly.

I had used engnbldrs kit for a timing chain before...and the parts were a great price and quality. It was only natural to call them again. This time I bought the rv head with oversized stainless valves and the 268 cam. I added a header...and I have more power than I ever hoped for out of a 22re.

Sometimes...you find a good guy who runs a great company. Its rare...but engnbldr is the real deal. Please do not let a $100 or so price dif lure you to an ebay nightmare.

 

Two days ago I took off the valve/rocker cover to do an inspection, and to my surprise I found everything to be in (What I believe) to be great condition for never being touched.

Does everything look good to everyone else?

 

Re Alerting Driver of Overheat:
If we have lights and buzzers for all the minor non-critical errors that do not cause catastrophic damage, there should also be a visible and audible alarm for overheating that could easily destroy an engine.

It would simply be matter of having a thermostat/temp switch set to close at a given temp (say, a few degree-F above operating temp of 190?), that will turn on a simple Radioshack buzzer and a blinking red LED. Anyone aware of a similar mod? If not, I'll come up with one someday

 

I found a local guy in town that sells cars, and owns a yard of tons of cars, He is willing to sell me the head off of a 1987 22RE For $100 (Which should fit if I am correct) and he is going to give me a 30 day warranty on it in case there is any kind of damage to it (I will be taking a straight edge and feeler gauge to it and doing a good visual inspection to it before I pay him of course) But I am wondering if a full gasket set including the head gasket from engnbldr. It is all I will have money for next weekend and I have to get my truck off my college campus soon before they get it towed. The OEM headgasket is $80 at both dealerships around me.

 

No disrespect to Engnbldr but I believe some of the parts he sells are no different then the other sellers on Ebay. Take the DNJ timing chain kit for example. It come with an OSK tensioner. If you look at some of the other sellers theirs comes with an OSK tensioner aswell. Same parts, different box, different seller. With that said I have Engnbldr parts on my rig and Todd's customer service is top notch. Warranty is good. Off my rant.

For the head gasket set I would go with a Victor Reinz set. Around $100 at autozone or napa. They use a "Nitroseal" head gasket which they say is like OEM. I run that on my rig and have had no issues. Good block/head prep is the key to a job done right the first time. Don't put it back together dirty. The block should be smooth as possible. NOT sandpaper rough. I used 220 grit then went at it with a brillo pad to make it slick to prevent "scrubbing". Clean with brake cleaner and your good to go.

 

Toyota only head gasket. No exceptions. You can save a dollar or two on ebay stuff....or you can have a guy so concerned with customer service that he is so on top of any issue its solved before you can blink. Engnbldr. Simple as that. No need to question the advise.
This is the answer.

Your toyota dealer is hosing you. I paid $35 for my gasket. Go to villagetoyotaparts.com or one of the other dealerships that discount online.

 

Ditto on Toyota only for the HG. Put it side by side with any other and you will see why the factory engines can last hundred of thousands of miles if taken care of.

I do buy gasket sets from NAPA or wherever but toss their HG in the trash or just buy the individual gaskets I need from them.

Don't forget to tap the threads in the block out and clean them out well.

 

Alright so I got my head taken off and looking at my head gasket it is pretty ****ed up. I am wondering mainly what caused the bulges on the gasket. and if that one break (Around the piston hole) could be the causes of my exhaust air getting in my radiator

 

Good on you for changing the head gasket. Bad on you for not running coolant. Its much more than expensive, funny coloured water and could be the reason this happened in the first place.

The coolant provides corrosion protection for the bare metal of the cooling system, lubrication for the water pump and seals/gaskets along with providing higher boiling points and freezing points.

I'm going to reccommend you change your water pump while your in there as those bearings are probally bad by this point.

 

Alright so for those who have not read the beginning of this thread. MY RADIATOR CAME LOSE AND HIT MY FAN ON THE INTERSTATE

I only ran water in it for a couple weeks after the first very small leak happened and I had to keep buying coolant

I know what caused the overheating and have a new radiator on there, I now have coolant to refill it when I fix it.

I just need help and tips on replacing it when I get my parts next Tuesday

 

So today I finished changing the head gasket and good news!, it runs again. Having two problems tho

1) it idles at 3,000 when warmed up

2) there's a very loud screaming (Not a vaccum leak sound) but it is very loud and I am unsure of what it is

 

I had a helacious shriek coming from an old Hyundai that I rebuilt once. It ended up that it was off tooth on the timing belt. Maybe your chain is off by a bit.

 

Got back to the college for the week and of course it being dark I did not realize that I messed up some vacuum lines (Idles where it should now) but the engine still runs rough, is it possible that my new spark plugs are messed up or something?

I have posted a video of how it first ran and when it cuts off at 0:36 to the second part thats how I have it running now