rdlsz24

OK this problem first happened to me last Friday, but then didn't happen again all week until today. I guess it's a Friday thing.

Anyway, all is well and good if I'm parked or sitting still in my truck. The problem occurs when I start driving. The "Charge" light on the cluster comes on, and my amps that are powered straight from the battery turn off. It stays like this until I start braking, when magically the "Charge" light goes off and the amps turn back on lol. I checked the power connections coming off the battery, and they are good. It seems to me like this would be a grounding problem. The whole time all of this is happening, the engine seems obilivious to it. It still purrs along just fine... No stumbling, etc.

Has anybody had a problem like this, or have any ideas as to what it could be?

Thanks,
Rob

AH64ID

By amps do you mean stereo amps? If so they are probally have low voltage cut-off. You have an alternator that is going out. Or a voltage regulator, but usually those fail and voltage increases...

Have your alternator checked by a local shop.

rdlsz24

Yeah stereo amps.. I have two of them. No voltage regulator that I know of.

So the voltage decreasing when I accelerate and increasing when I brake is a sign of a failing alternator?

Rob

Bobakazi

When your problem occured, was it right when you turned on other accessories? I am mainly asking if you had your headlights on. See if turning your lights on makes a difference. How many watts do your amps put out? How long have you had them in? If your amps are sucking just about all the extra juice your alternator is putting out, and then you turn on more accessories, you are overworking your alternator. If this is the case, you will need a higher output alternator, and maybe consider getting a capaciter(s) for your amps.

rdlsz24

Well I was actually thinking about this today. The other days this past week when I was driving my truck (and this problem did not occur) it was dark out, and I had my headlights on. So it seems to be a problem when my lights are off... but that wouldn't make sense.

I do have a cap for the amps, but I am not sure of the wattage on them. I drove it for a year with this stereo system in it without a problem, so I don't think I'm overloading it.

I called Midas and they will test the whole charge system (battery, starter and alternator) for $15, so I think I will go there.

Rob

Bobakazi

Call an electrical shop instead. One that only deals with batteries, starters, alternators, ignitions. Most of them will test everything for free. Unless you really like Midas and they apply your $15 towards your purchase if you need one.

rdlsz24

Hey thanks for the advice... I Googled "Free alternator testing" and the first place to pop up was AutoZone...

http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/free_testing.htm

Rob

Bobakazi

That'l woik. They bring a tester right out to your parking spot.

rdlsz24

OK I got the alternator tested yesterday at AutoZone. It read 45 watts and it should be putting out around 60 I think the guy said. They have remanufactured ones you can buy there for around $85. Should I go ahead and just get it? Or should I try and replace the brushes myself? I'm pretty good with a soldering iron

Oh yeah when I was driving home last night (it was dark out so I had my headlights on), my amps decided they were going to work. So I cranked the stereo up, and the damn Charge light on the cluster was blinking along to the beats! lol. It was doing the opposite of what I thought it would be doing, though. When my sub hit hard, the light would go off, and when it was a quiet part of the song, the light would come on.

Rob

AH64ID

weird.

I have never tackeled rebuiling an alternator. If you dont want to do it see how much a local electrical shop will rebuilt it for. I had my stock one rebilt with a 100 amp OEM wind and a small pully for about 125 I think...

rdlsz24

Well I took the alternator off the truck last night and then went to AutoZone today after work. I had them test the alt since the guy that tested it before (when it was still installed) said the on-vehicle tests are not all that accurate. Well he puts it into the tester and starts the test. The alternator wouldn't even spin! The thing just said FAIL haha. So I say well grab me the new one and let's put it on here and test it to make sure it's not DOA. So he puts it on there and it passes, so I buy it (for around $90 after taxes).

Well I get home and installed the new one without too much drama, and it seems to have cured the problem. Thanks for the help guys.

Rob

AH64ID

Glad to hear it

Bobakazi

An easier fix would have been to just drive around with one long solid bess note constantly playing. Just kiddin. I have no idea why it would be backwards like that. Glad it is fixed though.

AH64ID

I bet that it was from the cap recharging.....now that I think about it more....

rdlsz24

OK contrary to what I said above, all is not well. The alternator belt (I'm assuming) now makes a horrible screeching sound for about 5 seconds when I start the truck, and then goes away. It also sometimes does it at low speeds. Could this be because I don't have the belt tight enough?

Rob

AH64ID

BINGO!! Put some leverage on the alt when you tighted in... I usuall use one of the massive 2' scewdrivers...