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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Distributor timing issue

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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 06:33 AM
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Distributor timing issue

Hope you folks can shed some light on some of the strange happenings I've been having with trying to get my timing right. I recently replaced the head gaskets on my '92 3VZE 4Runner with a new timing belt... I know the timing belt was timed properly. When I finished up the job I just installed the distributer where the washer mark was before and the vehicle seemed to run pretty good.

Last night I decided to throw a timing light on it; the truck was warm and idle at 800 with the jumper in place in the diagnostic port per the FSM. I was shocked to see that my timing was way off the 'chart'... maybe like 35* degrees (yes, my timing light dial was at 0) ! So I twisted my cap counter-clockwise almost to the max and got it on around 10*. Now the truck seems to be lacking some serious power, I cannot maintain 50mph up a small hill in 5th gear.

So obviously now I'm thinking my car's timing is really retarded and thus I'm making no power. Does this make sense to anyone? I'm just sitting here scratching my head... it's almost like it was proper at 35*... any help is appreciated!

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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 06:37 AM
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did you install the timing jumper?
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 06:44 AM
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yes, as in my original post the jumper was in place in my diagnostic port
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by mattster03
yes, as in my original post the jumper was in place in my diagnostic port

lol ooops, I missed that one, oh well, did you have the distributor out when you did the timing belt? Oh and did the idle change when you installed the jumper? It should have, sometimes the jumper depending on what you use can be tricky to get a good connection. You can easily tell if the jumper was installed and working properly as the check engine light should come on when it's working right.

Last edited by xxxtreme22r; Jan 14, 2011 at 07:00 AM.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 07:00 AM
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lol no problem. yes i pulled the distributer out before i did the timing belt, I believe the FSM tells you to do it in that order. Would that mess something up?
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 07:01 AM
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I edited my last post might wanna reread that too, but if the dizzy is installed a tooth or two off it can mess the timing up as well.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 07:08 AM
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I did not specifically hear an idle change, but the CEL was blinking in the 'no stored codes' format. I am starting to think that my dizzy is a tooth off. I'm trying to process in my head if this would explain my issues or whether just the fact that i was able to get it to 10* would mean that it must be on the correct tooth...
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 07:11 AM
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From: Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
you might be able to get 10* even with the tooth off, but when the ECU takes over timing duties on the dizzy it might run out of room to adjust it electronically.
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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You're off by one tooth. The distributor gear has 13 teeth, 360/13 = 28 degrees. To make it easier, set the engine at TDC, then LOOK at the distributor to see where it is pointing (might even mark it with masking tape). Pull the distributor out (notice that the rotor turns? The distributor gear is helical.), and replace it following the FSM directions carefully. Did the rotor end up in the same place? Do it again. Is the rotor now turned 28 degrees? Bingo!
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Old Jan 14, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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If you didn't hear the idle change but are still getting the CEL codes then your TPS may need to be adjusted...
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