just a note....for me it was easier to remove the cross over pipe before I installed the R.H.....BUT!....that crossover pipe is not an easy piece to install, cramped spaces almost makes it impossible to remove and install....but it can be done with patience and maneuverability

 

Don't mean to hi jack, but is there a thread to reference this crossover elim. mod?

Showing good patience with your progress on this HG job. Keep up the good work.

 

input is always welcome.....and thanks!

 

x2 I'm interested in this. Everytime I think of the Crossover setup on these motors, I want to kill kitties.


Good job on the HG job, please tell me you took the time out to clean the carbon off of the heads, valves, and any ports you can fit a wirebrush in? I figure since its all apart, might as well do it, right? Haha

I just got done doing a 3VZ swap with my dad. Did it in a garage with a crappy heater and 20 degree weather. Hang in there, you're not too far along. Aligning the timing marks on this thing might take a few tries.

 

yes, I did clean up those valves not much carbon there to remove it took about 15 minutes per head ....and aligning every thing,I put this 3vze on TDC and marked the timing belt on the cam sprocket before I started to tear down.I didn't remove the belt from the crank no need to.cams went back in in the proper position they came from so aligning will be no problem......I did a timing belt replacement last summer with pics that may help you

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/

 

Phildelfino and TransAmBandit, search "crossover elimination mod". (not trying to hijack, just following up.)

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...estions-90037/

 

Subscribed~~~

Good work man!!! I'll be tearing into mine come spring...

 

no problem, thanks for the link....but for me I will not be doing that mod at this time, because I don't have time.I'm just trying to get Christine back on the road

 

The cam shaft retainer bolts stripping their threads sounds kinda worrisome, are you sure they stripped at only 12 ft-lbs? Hope it's ok....

I feel for you. It's not so cold here, but I've got my 3VZE all apart right now to do a timing belt change, exhaust manifold gaskets and valve cover gaskets; I debated whether to pull the heads since I'm so close, but finally decided not to spend the extra money on the gaskets and bolts (wife's putting pressure on me not to spend the $$$, probably a good thing).

Hope you (and I) get it all back together in one piece, and stay warm!

 

Looks like serious progress. It's giving me confidence for when I do mine. ( I also used your Timing Belt thread when I first started troubleshooting 2 or 3 months ago before I knew what was wrong )

Good luck!

( Also, Subbed )

 

well the torque per the FSM is 12 ft lbs, but if you use a torque wrench 1/2" drive (clicker and pointer type) like I did for some reason they will not be accurate at that low of a torque so be careful!...I resourted to using the craftsman 1/4" drive ratchet to finish the job

do they even make a 1/4" drive torque wrench for these small torque specs?

I would like to know if anyone else has had this same experience with the cam bearing bolts as I had?...

 

thanks....and good luck on your work when you get to it

 

They make 3/8 drive torque wrenches and you have to convert the foot pounds to inch pounds. At least that's what you have to do with me pa's.

 

i had to do the same thing with mine

 

have you done a head gasket replacement?

 

What were some symptoms you encountered prior to initiating this repair? I have a feeling I'll be doing this pretty soon. I'm a little apprehensive about the whole thing, but watching your progress is boosting my confidence a little. I will also be working with a bare bones budget and simple hand tools. I havn't gotten my hands dirty on engine internals for about 13 years. The last time was rebuilding a 2.5L from an 88 Dodge 600 that threw a rod through the oil pan.

 

Yeah my smallest torque wrench reads in inch pounds. Multiply ft-lbs by 12 to get in-lbs. 12 ft-lbs = 144 in-lbs

 

T4L....thanks for asking that is a good question and for me it was the following
running rough at start up, engine vibrations(which has been going on for over a year but I don't know it this repair will resolve this problem), no power, temp gauge moving towards the H and white smoke out the exhaust after warm up with a sweet smell of antifreeze

just to let you know that I have a good bit of mechanic ability and have worked on American autos in the past with not much of a problem, but the 3.0 Toyota engine from what I have read on this forum is a bear to work on.I find that to be true for me.I have been through a lot with this 4runner and still continue to work on it hopeing that it will be as good as some other 3vze owners say it is

 

mt goat
I got you, but I still used 12 ft lbs on a 1/2 " drive clicker and pointer, to torque the cam bearing bolts maybe I'm missing something here

I wonder why a couple of those blot threads in the heads stripped...and thanks for the conversion factor vary helpful

 

Sounds like the HG is leakin somewhere...