Decided to do the head gaskets
#83
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#84
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I also want to ad that there are thick steel washers(plate washers)page EG2-51&60 under each head bolt that has to be reused ,unless you ordered new ones with new head bolts and don't loose one or you will be on a long hunt to find a replacement
don't forget to install the 6 point bolts that have thick plastic washers a lot thicker than the steel ones on the head bolts.... (1) at front on L.H. close to the alternator bracket & (1) at rear of the R.H. on the finder side and it's hard to see, if you don't remove them the heads will not come off
I have taken off work this Friday to complete the remaining work on the 4runner.It is going to be in the high 50's here and It is going to real nice to work in that temperature for a day.I will keep my fingers crossed that the runner starts and runs fine with no water leaks....it will be a long day and I will try to post my results that evening
don't forget to install the 6 point bolts that have thick plastic washers a lot thicker than the steel ones on the head bolts.... (1) at front on L.H. close to the alternator bracket & (1) at rear of the R.H. on the finder side and it's hard to see, if you don't remove them the heads will not come off
I have taken off work this Friday to complete the remaining work on the 4runner.It is going to be in the high 50's here and It is going to real nice to work in that temperature for a day.I will keep my fingers crossed that the runner starts and runs fine with no water leaks....it will be a long day and I will try to post my results that evening
Last edited by buckz6319; 01-13-2010 at 04:12 PM.
#85
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Oops
Ok, Ok, it's just me being really dumb and not reading everything and just skimming...
I missed that part and thought he blew another HG... Whoops
T4L....thanks for asking that is a good question and for me it was the following
running rough at start up, engine vibrations(which has been going on for over a year but I don't know it this repair will resolve this problem), no power, temp gauge moving towards the H and white smoke out the exhaust after warm up with a sweet smell of antifreeze
running rough at start up, engine vibrations(which has been going on for over a year but I don't know it this repair will resolve this problem), no power, temp gauge moving towards the H and white smoke out the exhaust after warm up with a sweet smell of antifreeze
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Yeah Lumpy. Same here. I rarely read everything. The only reason I do here is because I want to learn. I'm no where near as skilled as Buckz here, or you, or prolly even one tenth the other members on the boards. I HAVE to read, or I'm going to be in a pile of euphemism creek when I have the money to do mine. ^_^
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How's it going buckz I just blew my head gasket right after a hard freeze here in Austin and it is something that I am going to be getting my hands into right after this raining spell stops. It is something I am going to have to do but to hear that someone with similar automotive experience was successful at it, well it would be a big confidence booster.
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How's it going buckz I just blew my head gasket right after a hard freeze here in Austin and it is something that I am going to be getting my hands into right after this raining spell stops. It is something I am going to have to do but to hear that someone with similar automotive experience was successful at it, well it would be a big confidence booster.
Rain didn't stop me, I just replaced my oil pan gasket in the driveway in the rain. Took about 3 hours, rain slowed me down....
I *just* got done tearing a bunch of stuff down on my 3VZE; if I'd wanted to pull the heads all I'd have had to do is loosen the head bolts. PM me if you need help.
#92
update....I feel like I have made some progress yesterday and today....my goal, I didn't reach for the weekend but hopefully I'll have her running this coming weekend...the weather here sucks!! and wrenching in these conditions here, under the tent/shelter makes me want to curse !@^^%#*&@^#%!^%*$()@^))(
got the R.H. on and torqued all head bolts according to the FSM just like the other side.....what you really need to watch for it torquing the cam bearings!! you can strip the threads in the heads!! using any kind of torque wrench at all.....I had 2 kinds a clicker and a pointer, both almost new.The torque on those bolts is 12ftlbs . I stripped out two threads on the heads and had to use longer bolts that would reach down past the stripped threads and grab the remaining threads.....I don't know how others torque these bolts with a torque wrench?....I decided to use a 1/4'' ratchet to finish out the rest
this pic is not that clear...but it's cold here my cam is acting up
this engine is a real PITA to work on I mean that with PASSION
got the R.H. on and torqued all head bolts according to the FSM just like the other side.....what you really need to watch for it torquing the cam bearings!! you can strip the threads in the heads!! using any kind of torque wrench at all.....I had 2 kinds a clicker and a pointer, both almost new.The torque on those bolts is 12ftlbs . I stripped out two threads on the heads and had to use longer bolts that would reach down past the stripped threads and grab the remaining threads.....I don't know how others torque these bolts with a torque wrench?....I decided to use a 1/4'' ratchet to finish out the rest
this pic is not that clear...but it's cold here my cam is acting up
this engine is a real PITA to work on I mean that with PASSION
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finished the job today and started her up and she runs good!!....here are some more pics...i'm tired so I will ad details later
Last edited by buckz6319; 01-15-2010 at 04:35 PM.
#94
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What the heck were you doin with the lil allen key and the vice??? Then I saw the hickey thing in the block by the crank pulley...due tell due tell. Probably something simple and I"m just being dumb.
#95
3 mil allen FTW!!
You have to compress the hydraulic piston back into the belt tensioner and insert it to re-use a good tensioner. Most people pay for new ones that don't even need replacing.
You didn't do the water pump and belt though??
You have to compress the hydraulic piston back into the belt tensioner and insert it to re-use a good tensioner. Most people pay for new ones that don't even need replacing.
You didn't do the water pump and belt though??
Last edited by KelleyC; 01-15-2010 at 07:09 PM.
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Heh, the FSM tells you to use a press to compress the tensioner's piston, but a simple C-clamp works nice. New one costs $50 at the local dealership.
Also, I see you've got generic rubber hose for your crankcase ventilation. I just paid $20 for the Toyota version, only diff is it's pre-formed. Really chaps my hide.
Nice pics!
BTW, how are you gonna get the camshaft cover on there when you've got the upper radiator hose and the water outlet installed?
Also, I see you've got generic rubber hose for your crankcase ventilation. I just paid $20 for the Toyota version, only diff is it's pre-formed. Really chaps my hide.
Nice pics!
BTW, how are you gonna get the camshaft cover on there when you've got the upper radiator hose and the water outlet installed?
Last edited by betelnut; 01-15-2010 at 09:24 PM.
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/
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Heh, the FSM tells you to use a press to compress the tensioner's piston, but a simple C-clamp works nice. New one costs $50 at the local dealership.
Also, I see you've got generic rubber hose for your crankcase ventilation. I just paid $20 for the Toyota version, only diff is it's pre-formed. Really chaps my hide.
Nice pics!
BTW, how are you gonna get the camshaft cover on there when you've got the upper radiator hose and the water outlet installed?
Also, I see you've got generic rubber hose for your crankcase ventilation. I just paid $20 for the Toyota version, only diff is it's pre-formed. Really chaps my hide.
Nice pics!
BTW, how are you gonna get the camshaft cover on there when you've got the upper radiator hose and the water outlet installed?
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lumpy...I had to reuse the hydraulic tensioner...so in order to do that you have to compress the piston and put a pin in it(allen key find one that will go all the way through the tensioner and piston but not to long though) to hold it in place, so when you install the idler pulley #1 and have the timing belt installed correctly......you pull out that pin and the piston from the tensioner pushes out on the back side of the pulley thus putting tension on the belt for no slippage