I tried for several hours trying to remove the CV axle from an '89 Toyota pickup w/out removing the steering Knuckle or ball joint/s I compressed the suspension as suggested on a few posts (some very recent) from this site w/ no luck regardless of how the differential flange or axle were rotated. I was lifting the LCA at the ball joint since I'd removed the hub this morning to replace the bearings/races and decided to tackle the axle that has had a torn boot for the past two years. I'd even cut off a bump stop for the UCA hoping that the extra 3/8"drop would help....no go As I lay on the gravel in the waning light looking at the axle and the studs it had slid off of earlier I wondered if the axle flange would clear if one or two of the studs were removed. Are these studs pressed or threaded in? Does anyone have any tip/s at axle removal or see something I'd done wrong in the above attempt? Thanks

 

While I've always succeeded just raising the LCA (in my case, by lifting on the rotor), others have had to raise the opposite corner just a bit. I suspect that it shifts the weight over to the corner you're working on, and provides just enough more compression to get the half-shaft out. If I were you, I'd try that before any more surgery on your truck.

The studs are pressed into the differential flange (they have a splined pattern at the base to lock them in). There are those, however, who claim that removing the studs (and inserting hardware-store bolts) is actually an improvement. YMMV.

 

It's easier if sway bar is removed

 

Remove the shock, swaybar, and lower ball joint (held in place with 4 bolts). Separate the lower control arm, and put a 2x4 in between the LCA and the bumpstop. Unbolt the 6 nuts holding the axle to the inner stub axle.

 

Ironic this was brought up today. A buddy of mine has a 93 pick up we were replacing cv axles in, the passenger side was a breeze but the drivers still isnt installed. Some things must have changed between 88 and 93 cause my 88 went without issue.

 

Ive always taken a pipe and pounded the 6 lugs on the stub shaft out, then the cv will drop. Grind the splines off the bolts before you put them back in, or drill out the holes and put a larger bolt in there, makes it easier for next time.

 

Thanks for the replies/tips on axle removal. I finally got it out. I couldn't use the 2x4 and bump stop method to lower the LCA. After disconnecting the lower ball joint, I used a crow bar and jack (the tapered end of the crow bar wedged between the LCA and steering knuckle and a jack to raise the the curved end (forcing the LCA downward)). Thank you Shoua for pointing me in that direction. I just purchased a reman from Azone and have a question about lubing the 'new' axle. I didn't find the info in Haynes or the posts I've just read. Do I use regular wheel bearing grease on the shaft that slides into the spindle or some type of lithium grease and is there a method of lubricating the shaft/spindle? Thanks

 

Honestly, I'm not sure...but I remember reading in the factory service manual that you just use a little bit of high temp grease.