CV axle question
I tried for several hours trying to remove the CV axle from an '89 Toyota pickup w/out removing the steering Knuckle or ball joint/s I compressed the suspension as suggested on a few posts (some very recent) from this site w/ no luck regardless of how the differential flange or axle were rotated. I was lifting the LCA at the ball joint since I'd removed the hub this morning to replace the bearings/races and decided to tackle the axle that has had a torn boot for the past two years. I'd even cut off a bump stop for the UCA hoping that the extra 3/8"drop would help....no go:( As I lay on the gravel in the waning light looking at the axle and the studs it had slid off of earlier I wondered if the axle flange would clear if one or two of the studs were removed. Are these studs pressed or threaded in? Does anyone have any tip/s at axle removal or see something I'd done wrong in the above attempt? Thanks
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While I've always succeeded just raising the LCA (in my case, by lifting on the rotor), others have had to raise the opposite corner just a bit. I suspect that it shifts the weight over to the corner you're working on, and provides just enough more compression to get the half-shaft out. If I were you, I'd try that before any more surgery on your truck.
The studs are pressed into the differential flange (they have a splined pattern at the base to lock them in). There are those, however, who claim that removing the studs (and inserting hardware-store bolts) is actually an improvement. YMMV. |
It's easier if sway bar is removed
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Remove the shock, swaybar, and lower ball joint (held in place with 4 bolts). Separate the lower control arm, and put a 2x4 in between the LCA and the bumpstop. Unbolt the 6 nuts holding the axle to the inner stub axle.
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Ironic this was brought up today. A buddy of mine has a 93 pick up we were replacing cv axles in, the passenger side was a breeze but the drivers still isnt installed. Some things must have changed between 88 and 93 cause my 88 went without issue.
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Ive always taken a pipe and pounded the 6 lugs on the stub shaft out, then the cv will drop. Grind the splines off the bolts before you put them back in, or drill out the holes and put a larger bolt in there, makes it easier for next time.
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Thanks! Now what type of grease?
Thanks for the replies/tips on axle removal. I finally got it out. I couldn't use the 2x4 and bump stop method to lower the LCA. After disconnecting the lower ball joint, I used a crow bar and jack (the tapered end of the crow bar wedged between the LCA and steering knuckle and a jack to raise the the curved end (forcing the LCA downward)). Thank you Shoua for pointing me in that direction. I just purchased a reman from Azone and have a question about lubing the 'new' axle. I didn't find the info in Haynes or the posts I've just read. Do I use regular wheel bearing grease on the shaft that slides into the spindle or some type of lithium grease and is there a method of lubricating the shaft/spindle? Thanks
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Originally Posted by pineapple
(Post 51809481)
Thanks for the replies/tips on axle removal. I finally got it out. I couldn't use the 2x4 and bump stop method to lower the LCA. After disconnecting the lower ball joint, I used a crow bar and jack (the tapered end of the crow bar wedged between the LCA and steering knuckle and a jack to raise the the curved end (forcing the LCA downward)). Thank you Shoua for pointing me in that direction. I just purchased a reman from Azone and have a question about lubing the 'new' axle. I didn't find the info in Haynes or the posts I've just read. Do I use regular wheel bearing grease on the shaft that slides into the spindle or some type of lithium grease and is there a method of lubricating the shaft/spindle? Thanks
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