90 Runner 3vze 4x4 SR5.

Yesterday had the Runner running nice (late afternoon), After rebuilt engine install.
I'm sure some of you are familiar with my other threads.

I went to start it up this morning, she doesn't want to start, seems to be getting way to much fuel or not enough air., fires up then starts chugging real bad and dies, tons of smoke out if the tail pipe, I'm talking lots of smoke, eyes burning, you could cut the smoke with a knife.

See I work grave-yard shift, so I usually don't work on her till the late afternoon, after I sleep after work, this morning thought I'd fire her up before I went to bed.

Last night it got down to the mid 40s, so the motor was fairly cold this morning.

So the question is why ?
It must be something to do with the cold start system, but I'm not sure what to check.

I'm going to bed now, will see how it acts when I wake up, temps should be in the 80s today, somehow I think it will start up nicely in the afternoon, but we shall see.

Any thoughts you have would be greatly appreciated, would never have got this far without your guys help, so if you could bail me out one more time I'll be forever in your debit.

 

Cold start injector (valve) ohm reading 3.4 (within spec)
Specs are 2-4 ohms, according to Hayes

 

Disconnected the air intake hose ( throttle body to air cleaner) no change.

 

Ready to fix this thing with a couple of Hellfires.
[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]
Bet a Javelin would do it.
[YOUTUBE] [/YOUTUBE]

 

Hello again, sorry to hear it's still giving you trouble. I've also had my cold start system act up, and here's what I know:

Your cold start system is made of just two main components, the Cold Start Injector which you've already measured and the Cold Start Injector Time Switch. The switch is located on the water bypass on the back of the engine. Looking from left to right, I believe it's the CSIS (largest sensor), ECT sensor then ECT sender (to dash gauge).

Check the CSIS with a ohmeter as directed on the link above. Inspect for damage, mine had corroded real bad and just fell in half (rain water sometimes falls on these sensors).

If that is not the issue, you've most likely got a fuel leak. Take out the CSI and run the fuel pump by jumping the terminals indicated in the CSI link with ignition turned to on. Look for fuel leaks, a couple of drops per minute or so isn't a bad leak, anything more than that is. If it's not the CSI, then it could be one of your injectors leaking and when you go to start, the engine is completely flooded with fuel in one or more cylinders.

 

Are you sure? Your truck is NOT supposed to run at all that way. (with no air-flow signal from the VAF, the fuel pump shuts off as soon as you let go of the key.)

Is it possible your truck has been massively re-wired some way, so that it will fun with the intake disconnected? If so, then all bets are off.

 

Tried starting it about 10 minutes ago, started right up, warm day here.

Game, I'll be check that sensor soon.

Scope, Harness looks like it has not been messed with as far I can tell.

 

New Flamethrower injectors, I hit them with the ohm meter before install, they're in spec.

 

I bought some of those too, solid upgrade. Noticing much better torque in sub 2500 RPMs and looking forward to putting the extra 10% flow to good use soon

 

One thing I did do when I was doing the ignition timing, I had the SST jumping from Te1 to FP instead of Te1 to E1, but I did catch it after a double check.

 

I'll be able to check the resistance on the time switch (warm) this evening, but I'll have to check the cold resistance when I get home from work in the AM.

 

Somehow I'm guessing the warm resistance will be ok.

 

Sure as ˟˟˟˟˟, warm spec is 70 - 90, I got 81.
STA - ground spec 30-90, I got 80.5

We'll see what the cold reading is in the AM, forecasted lows will be in the mid-40s.

Expensive little bugger, they run about $150.

 

I realized I had the link wrong for the CSIS. You should not get a reading from STA - Ground. Make sure it's not STJ though. A reading on STA - Ground means your switch is broken.

I just pulled one off a 4Runner at the pick and pull for $7 to fix mine. Repair shop quoted me $200!