So I've uploaded a couple videos comparing my 88 pickup and my wife's 85 4runner starting up this morning at 18*F. They are both efi, both 22re's, my engine is the original 240k mile warrior, I rebuilt her 4runner engine at 230k and we've put about 6,000 miles on it since rebuilding.

Her motor all together runs a lot better than mine, it just doesn't start up as quick when it's cold. Once it's warm it starts up first time. And if it was summer, even after sitting all night, it'll start first try.

Anyways this will point everything out...
Her 4runner:
http://s917.photobucket.com/albums/a...1211110915.mp4

My pickup:
http://s917.photobucket.com/albums/a...1211110922.mp4

 

Maybe the cold start injector?

 

Agreed.

Also, check her coolant temp sensor. Do a check with a multimeter. There's a chart in the EFI section of the FSM that says what the resistance should be based on the outside air temp. If the coolant temp sensor is bad then the cold start injector won't know to squirt the extra gas.

 

its the cold start time switch that tells the CSI when to fire. Its located right beside the EFI coolant temp sensor. Green one is EFI brown one is Cold Start

 

the csi only works when cranking the engint to start. once the engine starts and you release the key, the csi stops injecting and the computer puts the extra fuel in through the injectors. that means that either the idle air valve isnt working right or the coolant temp sensor isn't working right. my bet is the air valve is the problem

 

when you say idle air valve are you referring to the AAV or something else? I have the same cold start issue.

Mine will sputter and die immediately on a cold start unless I rev it and hold my foot on the pedal for a few minutes. Then it runs great and restarts just fine. But if I don't hold on the gas for a few minutes, it sputters and dies.

 

I have the same problem as stanz.

 

the sputter and die issue if you dont hold the gas, My 2000 tundra has that problem and i think its the oxygen sensor.

 

anyone ever solve this on theirs? I've been chasing too many demons on mine. Haven't gotten back to this one yet.

 

my 90 has problems starting when cold.ive got a sensor on the intake manifold that is broken.

 

Ok so hears my question. If the csi only fires while cranking them why would you need the timer switch.Which would imply that it fire for a few seconds after start to stablize the engine . Yes or no

 

The time switch guages temperature to tell the injector if it needs to fire. I finally got around inspecting mine and repairing mine. The injector was caked in so much black sludge that it couldn't spray if it wanted to. My switch was also dead too.

Swapped in a cleaner, used injector and a new switch and my cold start issue is now resolved.

 

Hey all, I know it's been a while but the 4runner has been in storage for about a year. I wanted to report my findings to help narrow the issue down since it's still occurring now that it's my DD.
Start injector time switch measured 34.4ohms
Cold start injector was 3.5ohms
I also checked the TPS with a feeler gauge and it seemed to be in spec.
All these tests were done with the engine cold, probably 55*F outside.

 

I did a diagnostic code check, the only codes coming up are 7 and 11.
The only time the check engine light stays on, is when I am starting it in the cold, it will sputter for a moment die or go into "normal running mode" the light goes off and idles like a champ. So the light is on when sputtering.
I rechecked the TPS because of the codes. The only 2 specs I'm not sure on are:
.0224" gap/between IDL & E2/Less than 2.3k ohms - Mine does not register at all?
.0335" gap/between IDL & E2/Infinity - Does not register still?
This is using a digital greenlee multimeter.

Whether or not this has to do with the cold start issue I'm assuming it may not but I'm not sure.

 

Alright everyone. I came back to give my final bit of closure on this topic. And I also just feel like it's a lot of wear on the starter and battery to "just deal" with the cold start problem...
My cold start injector tested at 3.5 ohms so I don't think it was necessarily bad, but when I pulled it, it was caked with crud like on stanz's truck. I swapped in a used one that was cleaner and tested 3.7 ohms and it didn't fix the problem.
So I went back and checked the resistance of the time switch (28* F outside) and I couldn't get it to read below 51 ohms. Since I had a used replacement that was testing at 31 ohms and about 30 ohms from one prong to ground, I changed that out too. It was cold when I got done with the work and it fired right up. After letting it sit in the cold all day I went out and it started right up almost instantly. The 4runner is cold blooded no more!

 

Glad to hear you resolved it. My buddy up here in Portland is having a similar issue. I'm giving the same advice.

 

Nice, and thanks for following up with us, helps a lot of people with similar problems.