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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Checking for Bent Valves

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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 10:59 AM
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John Ralph's Avatar
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Checking for Bent Valves

So my timing chain broke (94 Pickup) and am in the process of replacing it. I have never done anything more than change oil, but am learning lots as I go. I need to know if there is a reliable and hopefully easy way to check for bent valves without removing the cylinder head. Short of easy, how should I proceed?

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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Start by checking compression. That will probably tell you (assuming the engine ran reasonably well before you broke the chain). You could move onto a leakdown test.

But given that the 22re is an "interference" engine, I'm not sure how you could break a timing chain without bending all 8 valves. But I don't have a 22re; perhaps others have had a more optimistic experience.
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 01:31 PM
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I would find it impossible to believe that all eight could get broken. Once the timing chain breaks, the cam no longer turns. The only valves that could get hit by pistons would have to be in already no?
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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when the chain breaks, inertia keeps the cams and bottom end rotating and smashes ˟˟˟˟ up. in the rare event only one valve got bent, the outcome is still the same: the head comes off. best of luck though
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by John Ralph
... Once the timing chain breaks, the cam no longer turns. The only valves that could get hit by pistons would have to be in already no?
I think this is right; I stand corrected.

But as oldblue suggests, it doesn't make much difference whether you have one, two, or eight bent valves.

As I think about it, it won't be easy to do a compression test, as John Ralph's engine is sitting there with no timing chain. You could still do a leak down test, setting the cam and crank by hand with the valve cover off. You might even be able to spot the bent valve by eye, as it may be stuck open, and not follow the cam. But given the near-certainty that at least one valve got clobbered, I think I would just pull the head and do a real examination.

Having said all that, a co-worker once broke the timing belt on a Honda. It ran fine with a new timing belt, but when smog check came up he couldn't pass, because of an exhaust valve that wasn't quite closing. So you could try putting a new chain on and see what happens. It's just not the way I would do it.

Last edited by scope103; Jul 24, 2013 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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I dont own one, but I'm pretty sure the 22re is a NON-interference engine....
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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I can tell you first hand the 22RE is an interferance engine! Take off the valve cover. any rocker with too much clearance has a bent valve under it. You will have to turn the cam with a socket and ratchet to inspect all the rockers.
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Old Jul 24, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Team420
I dont own one, but I'm pretty sure the 22re is a NON-interference engine....
The 3VZE is non-interference, but most claim (and I believe) that the 22re is interference.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 05:36 AM
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I am currently trying to remove the head. Trying to get the bolts out on the fuel injection side has been a nightmare. I have a stripped out allen head bolt that goes through the throttle body to deal with. Still an adventure.

The 22re is an interference engine, but the later models have dished pistons that can make it so valves don't get bent.

Has anyone purchased this or know any info on these guys?
http://www.johnsons-quality-machine....-22re-head.php
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by John Ralph
I am currently trying to remove the head. Trying to get the bolts out on the fuel injection side has been a nightmare.
I always pull the wire harness out of the computer and remove it all with the intake still bolted to the head. Way easier for me. Then I disassemble the intake on a bench.
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Old Jul 26, 2013 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by j2the-e
I always pull the wire harness out of the computer and remove it all with the intake still bolted to the head. Way easier for me. Then I disassemble the intake on a bench.
This seems like a phenomenal idea. I am going to try this for sure!
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