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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Changing the fuel tank

Old Nov 10, 2012 | 07:14 PM
  #1  
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Changing the fuel tank

The gas tank on my 1990 pickup is seeping pretty good, and I ordered a replacement tank. Getting prepared for the project in my mind, and I am wondering two things:

1) Are any special tools needed?
2) Is the fuel filter in the tank? If so, I would want to change it while I am at it.

Thanks,
Josh
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 08:48 PM
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No special tools, just a socket and a screw screwdriver, the filter is under the intake on the pass side, it is easier to take the pass front tire off and move the little Mud flap thingy from the inner fender and go at it from under the fender. The great thing about the toys is there is lots of room under the truck for us fat boys!
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Your fuel filter is not in the tank!!

But your fuel pump is now there are 2 schools on this it seems the places where there is no real winter or liquid brine and rust belt

Like to just remove the tank with the bed still on.

In the great rust belt it seems we end up removing the bed after breaking the lines off the fuel pump bracket. Much easier to just remove it from the start.

It is your call depending where you live.

I have never seen a new tank come with the pump and sending unit so you need to change that . a new sock on the fuel pump does not hurt.

Are you sure it is the tank leaking and not one of the lines??
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Old Nov 10, 2012 | 09:44 PM
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I suggest to pull the bed so as not to put stress on the lines. Also would suggest making sure the return line isnt clogged all the way to the tank. I use an air hose and remove the gas cap and can hear it bubble if clear.

I use ebay fuel pumps. Never a problem and you wont know the difference.

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I got a tank out of my parts truck and it was loaded with rust and so was the pump. I surprised the truck even ran. Filter was all plugged up. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning the tank out. First I drained it and tapped the outside with a rubber hammer to break the thick rust loose. Put a little water in to avoid sparks and put some chain and rocked it back and forth to get more loose and then I let it soak with some vinegar in it. I found this on the web. It actually came pretty clean. Have heard of using The Works toilet bowl cleaner from K Mart.

http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removi...rom_a_gas_tank Several products you can use.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4540637_remo...-gas-tank.html

http://www.vjmog.com/ftopict-3687.html

I have a friend that works in a parts store and he suggested Red Kote to coat the tank. I have coated it and am waiting for my new fuel pump to come in. I ready to get the tank in and see if this thing fires up.

I dont mess with tanks in the summer. The fumes are what are dangerous.

I bought the fuel pump off of ebay from "carpartswholesale" for $27.85 plus cheap shipping. Parts store wanted $150


This "J" line likes to get clogged. Check all of them, but most likely this one will be clogged.


New $25 dollar fuel pump. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuel-Pum...item35b6422050







Last edited by Terrys87; Nov 10, 2012 at 10:50 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2012 | 05:21 AM
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Hey thanks guys. The truck has a wood bed. I should be able to remove it easily. I think it is the tank leaking; the rear outside corner is all wet, an area at least the size of my hand. I was thinking that it is leaking at the seam. Thanks for all the good info!
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 12:36 AM
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Red face

you never said if this was carbed or fuel injected.

The mechanical pump was on the side of the engine.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 04:24 AM
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It is fuel injected
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 04:42 AM
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My local radiator shop tanked my tank, welded up the holes, lined it and pressure tested it. For $125 it's better than new, still OEM and will last forever.

:wabbit2:
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 05:49 AM
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Good idea

Yesterday after church I unbolted the bed and jacked up one side so I could get a better look at the tank. Seems like it might actually be leaking from the rear of the top of the tank, and running down. I also found a "patched" fuel line around bottom of the front of the tank that might be seeping a little. Hopefully I can find some time soon to really get into it.
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Old Nov 12, 2012 | 09:28 AM
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My brother stopped by and we pulled off the bed. Here are a few photos of the tank:







It looks like the top might've been repaired at some point, or patched with some kind of goo. It was starting to flake up, and I picked at it a little, which is why you can now see the rust exposed. I just ordered a new tank online. It was $157 shipped, not a bad deal IMO. Thanks for all of your input
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 05:35 PM
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I've got the new tank in, and everything hooked up except the gauge sending unit. I'm waiting on a new one from Advance. I fabricated a temporary cap for where the sending unit will go so I can start the truck up and make sure all is well. It did start right up and idle, just as expected. The only problem so far is that I have been having a difficult time stopping the rubber fuel return line from leaking where it connects to the metal line coming out of the fuel pump. The J line isn't plugged, I did check it. Just having a hard time keeping gas from seeping out of the connection onto the top of the fuel pump. Today I got some new line, appropriate size clamps, and gasket maker. I also put a little flare/flange on the end of the metal line, to make for a tighter connection. I haven't started it up since, so I can give the gasket maker enough time to dry. Hopefully when I start it up tomorrow evening it doesn't leak/seep any more. There seems to be a lot of flow or pressure happening with the return line.
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Old Nov 18, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Red face

You are using the correct line for fuel injection as well as the proper clamps??

Just regular fuel line is not made for the higher pressures .

Good luck
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Old Nov 19, 2012 | 02:39 AM
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Well all that was on there was rubber line and hose clamps. The rubber line was 5/16" and the steel line coming out of the pump for the return is 1/4", so I replaced the line with 1/4", and also replaced the clamp. There are not any fittings, but there probably should be. I kind of wonder if someone cut the steel lines that come out of the pump, just judging by how they look, and the absence of fittings. Thanks for the idea, you may be onto something.
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