When I run my truck hard (offroading) or just for a long time it won't start unless I mess with the shifter for a while or leave it on neutral or just leave it off for a while till it cools down then it'll start so I'm thinking its that switch so I was wondering how do u bypass it??

 

You could make up a plug with a jumper, so that you unplug the switch and insert the jumper. http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...2/troubles.pdf Probably not too much more work than just fixing the switch.

But switches just aren't very temperature dependent; if you can only start the truck after you wait until it cools down, it probably isn't the park-neutral switch.

When it won't start, will it fire at all? Just cranks? Or not even cranks?

 

Yeah it just cranks but don't start

 

Your neutral safety switch isn't the problem if it's cranking.

 

Wait nevermind it doesnt crank it just clicks my bad

 

If it "clicks" then it's still not the Park-Neutral switch.

Click-then-nothing is most likely a solenoid problem. And because the starter can get really hot, that sometimes will go away with "cooling off."

 

I just put a brand new starter on it tho like a few weeks ago

 

Well, don't take my word for it. Go out right now, put it in drive (anything other than Park or Neutral), and turn the key. Does it click?

 

I just tried it right now and it doesnt do anything no click

 

Right. That's what it does when the switch is working properly. So if it only "clicks" when it's hot, the Park-neutral switch is not what's causing it.

Next time it happens, have someone else turn the key, and you listen as close as you can get to the starter. Even if you have a new starter, if you have a weak battery (or bad cables, etc.) it may not be getting enough power to turn over, and all you get is a click. But that's not caused by the Park-Neutral switch.

 

Bad battery cables?

 

Ohhh well when it happened last time I listened to where it was coming from and it sounded like it was coming from inside like under the dash on passenger side?? I didn't hear it coming from the starter

 

I don't think it's the battery cables they look good to me I thought it was that switch bcuz I was messing with the shifter bcuz it was loose and I thought I might have messed with the switch or something

 

Just because the battery cables look good does not mean they are ..

They get old and burnt which raises the resistance and your voltage to the starter is getting released as heat.

I would really think about replacing all the grounds and the positive cable with a larger size just to start.

remember your starter is grounded through the mounting bolts .

Were you having this problem before you replaced the starter.:jessica::jessica:

 

I'll try that
Ummm no it just started happening a few days ago like our of no where it started happening

 

new starters can be bad out of the box. was this OEM or something else?

if you have good electrical connection to the starter i wouldn't assume the starter is good just because its new. test the starter.

 

@Alaska90 But wouldn't it happen right when I put the new one and not like a month later??

 

not always. if its a 3rd party, poorly made. it happens. sometimes these things get re-manufactured and there will be a whole batch of them that goes through the plant, some defective part gets put in, and a few days/months after install the thing craps out.

 

Oh yea? Well I'll have to check it out then
So the switch won't have anything to do with it??

 

my90yota4x4,
Your previous posts suggest that power may not even be getting to your starter so don't suspect it, yet. Best to refer to and understand your FSM. (here) so you do not end up guessing and throwing unnecessary parts and $$$ into the truck.

You are probably hearing your circuit opening relay (COR) (on page 19 here)
If your starting circuit on yours is similar to first-gen's the COR will energize (click) to power your fuel pump, regardless of neutral switch position. COR will not affect cranking.

Agree with Scope103. Listen to/feel your starter relay in relay block (R/B No 2), pages 18 & 22 here
In first gens Neutral switch NOT in neutral interrupts power from IGN switch to starter relay and keeps relay from energizing. (Could not find schematic for gen2 in link). When I could not find an assistant, I use my Special Service Tool

If starter relay does not click, possibilities:
Neutral switch is bad, so power is not getting to starter relay (independent of COR).
Battery is really weak. Check battery voltage with headlights (load) on.
How relay works? Low current from start contacts of ignition switch energizes relay coil. This pulls in armature to close relay contacts. Relay contacts conduct high-current (12 Amps for first gens) to energize starter solenoid

If starter relay clicks, listen to/feel your starter solenoid (piggybacked on starter motor). This should give a deeper clicking sound.
If solenoid not clicking, possibilities:
Not enough power to energize it. It takes 12amps to energize first gen starter - solenoid; probably more on 2nd gen. If yours is wired like 86-88 runners (I could not find 2nd gen schematic), all 12 Amps of starter solenoid coil current passes through ST1 contacts of Ignition switch. (That's a major boo-boo, will not help ignition contacts and defeats reason for adding a relay. I have modified mine here. No schematic/pics, yet but description is here.)

Break in circuit from starter relay to starter solenoid.

Do not discount wiring. Still worth checking to make sure you have good contact. Cables and connectors may look good outside but interface between battery terminal and connector could have corrosion that will prevent proper contact (first-hand experience).

. Also good to make direct contact between chassis and terminal lugs like here.