When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A few years ago I removed my front anti-sway bar and one of the bracket bolts snapped off on the frame. Recently I don't do as much wheeling as I used to due to lack of time... this obviously isn't anything urgent but I wouldn't mind the extra stability on the road.
I've hit it with PB blaster repeatedly, drilled it, banged in an extractor and then that snapped as well. It did turn slightly before it snapped. I don't have access to a welder, so I am looking for suggestions on backing it out without welding on some material to grab on to. I've hit the extractor with a punch and hammer, broke off some pieces but not enough to remove it. It's too low in the threads to cut a slot in it to get it with a screw driver bit. Thanks for any input...
Drill it out to shreds and bits...then re-tap to a larger bolt
I have a small stash of left-handed drill bits I use to help remove broken bolts.
Sometimes, just the left hand drilling will back the broken piece out.
A broken extractor makes further drilling difficult because of the extreme hardness of the extractor steel. Probably only a carbide bit will touch it.
If it was a larger piece, a person skilled with an acetylene torch might selectively blow the hi-carbon extractor nub out of the work.
I have also seen guys use a piece of copper tube to shield the main material and burn a stick type welding rod to the broken bit; building up enough of a tit that might be slotted, or grasped with vice grips, or similar.
Drill it out to shreds and bits...then re-tap to a larger bolt
This was going to be my last resort if I cannot remove the broken stud.
Originally Posted by millball
I have a small stash of left-handed drill bits I use to help remove broken bolts.
Sometimes, just the left hand drilling will back the broken piece out.
I should have tried this... I've had luck with them in the past as well, but I don't have any left-handed bits around. When I called around looking for them locally none of the hardware stores seemed to know what I was talking about. Should have waited and ordered online.
Originally Posted by millball
A broken extractor makes further drilling difficult because of the extreme hardness of the extractor steel. Probably only a carbide bit will touch it.
If it was a larger piece, a person skilled with an acetylene torch might selectively blow the hi-carbon extractor nub out of the work.
I have also seen guys use a piece of copper tube to shield the main material and burn a stick type welding rod to the broken bit; building up enough of a tit that might be slotted, or grasped with vice grips, or similar.
Good luck, whatever you do!!
Thanks! I'll see what can be done...
Last edited by az4x4runner; 01-29-2019 at 06:23 PM.
This was going to be my last resort if I cannot remove the broken stud.
I should have tried this... I've had luck with them in the past as well, but I don't have any left-handed bits around. When I called around looking for them locally none of the hardware stores seemed to know what I was talking about. Should have waited and ordered online..
Left hand twist drills are the stuff of old school machinists and mechanics.
Most of the help you'll find employed at regular hardware stores and chain auto parts shaks probably thought you were jerking them around. (Is your refrigerator running???)
When you do procure some, buy American, or German HSS (High speed steel) drills.
Inferior chinese junk tools are never found more lacking than in drill bits, extractors and other specialist pieces where correct metallurgy and heat treatment makes all the difference.
Left hand twist drills are the stuff of old school machinists and mechanics.
Most of the help you'll find employed at regular hardware stores and chain auto parts shaks probably thought you were jerking them around. (Is your refrigerator running???)
When you do procure some, buy American, or German HSS (High speed steel) drills.
Inferior chinese junk tools are never found more lacking than in drill bits, extractors and other specialist pieces where correct metallurgy and heat treatment makes all the difference.
That makes sense. Pretty sure it was with my father when I was a kid that I first saw left handed bits, he's a long time machinist. Hmmm.. I wonder if he still has them.
Either way, I would like to own some for situations like this.
Good luck finding "American Made" drill bits, right or left hand.
The whole point of a left-hand bit is that you are willing to destroy the bit to get the fastener out.
Having said all that, it is unlikely you will be able to drill through an extractor with any bit. Using an EDM "tap remover" is going to be pretty difficult. You might need to find someone with a welder.
Themes:
-dont give up
-patience
-extra bits
-comfort food/drink
Extractors are more for cross threaded or overtorqued fasteners. Time and environmentally-seized broken bolts are more the job for either drills, torches, or welders.
I think you missed it, he already tried the extractor and broke the extractor in the hole. That jalopnik article suggests a dremel, which is a good idea. Broken bolts always seem to happen in the hardest to get to places. Keep us posted on how you get it out please.
I think you missed it, he already tried the extractor and broke the extractor in the hole. That jalopnik article suggests a dremel, which is a good idea. Broken bolts always seem to happen in the hardest to get to places. Keep us posted on how you get it out please.
It may have a wait a little while longer due to work, but I will definitely update this thread once it's removed.
01-29-2019, 04:35 PM
