Blown Headgasket
#1
Blown Headgasket
It just keeps getting better...
My head gasket on my 22R is blown. I had a shop check it out and they confirmed it. I was pretty sure anyway since I looked like the space shuttle driving down the road (white smoke from exhaust).
The shop wants to literally rape me for the job.
I've figured that I can get a kit from Engbldr and replace my HG, timing chain, water pump and oil pump for 1/6 of what they want to charge me. The only issue is that I've NEVER done anything as major as this before.
I've seen a bunch of write ups on this. I actually think I could handle the HG job but the timing chain looks like I could easily mess that up since it can be tough getting the chain back on.
There goes the Christmas budget!
My head gasket on my 22R is blown. I had a shop check it out and they confirmed it. I was pretty sure anyway since I looked like the space shuttle driving down the road (white smoke from exhaust).
The shop wants to literally rape me for the job.
I've figured that I can get a kit from Engbldr and replace my HG, timing chain, water pump and oil pump for 1/6 of what they want to charge me. The only issue is that I've NEVER done anything as major as this before.
I've seen a bunch of write ups on this. I actually think I could handle the HG job but the timing chain looks like I could easily mess that up since it can be tough getting the chain back on.
There goes the Christmas budget!
#2
OH, I forgot to add - what else should I consider doing since I'm going to be up to my ears in this job?
I am going to have the head taken to a local machine ship to be milled and pressure checked.
Anything else?
I am going to have the head taken to a local machine ship to be milled and pressure checked.
Anything else?
#3
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yeah, take the head to a machine shop and have them check it at least. And while they are in there they can pressure check it too... when you take it all apart, take the extra time to label everything (it will pay off later). Be sure and buy a set of new head bolts and follow the torqing sequence....
#5
well, what they are charging they might as well put their [insert word here] into my [insert other word here]. It is a joke what they want to charge...
#6
yeah, take the head to a machine shop and have them check it at least. And while they are in there they can pressure check it too... when you take it all apart, take the extra time to label everything (it will pay off later). Be sure and buy a set of new head bolts and follow the torqing sequence....
My wife said she wants to help too.. so, that will be interesting. I'll get pictures of this!
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#9
Thanks gNARLS... I think I'm going to attempt this myself since I do not have the $$ that the shop wants to do this. I think I'll be OK as long as I follow the sage advice that I've been reading about this job.
I have enough $$ for the full gasket set from engnbldr. I'll verify with him that it containts the one you mentioned near the firewall. The machine shop near me comes highly recommended and when I spoke to them they mentioned that they have a lot of experience with the 22R.
I'm going to check EBay for the FSM. I have the PDF but I think I'd rather have the hard copy since printing it would require a few trees.
Thanks again.
I have enough $$ for the full gasket set from engnbldr. I'll verify with him that it containts the one you mentioned near the firewall. The machine shop near me comes highly recommended and when I spoke to them they mentioned that they have a lot of experience with the 22R.
I'm going to check EBay for the FSM. I have the PDF but I think I'd rather have the hard copy since printing it would require a few trees.
Thanks again.
#10
I just did the head on my 94 22re, its very similar to the 22r. I needed a new head, it cost me $315.00 from enginesus (they have a regular website and one on ebay, the ebay one is a little cheaper and you get more stuff. That's were I got mine), it included the head, cam, valves & springs installed and the gasket kit. Get a tap for the head bolt threads in the block (Snap-On website about $20). LABEL EVERYTHING AS YOU REMOVE IT (the item and where it came from). Invest in Zip-lock freezer bags (you can use a sharpy on them). Take pictures before you start if you can just for reference later. Definitely check at least (I would recommend replacing) the timing set, oil pump and water pump, it's much easier and cost effective to do it now rather than later as I did (just two weeks later...that sucked). If you have broken timing guides check the timing cover for wear from the timing chain as it can cause a water leak.
Last edited by scarlton; 12-12-2009 at 01:43 PM.
#11
I just did the head on my 94 22re, its very similar to the 22r. I needed a new head, it cost me $315.00 from enginesus (they have a regular website and one on ebay, the ebay one is a little cheaper and you get more stuff. That's were I got mine), it included the head, cam, valves & springs installed and the gasket kit. Get a tap for the head bolt threads in the block (Snap-On website about $20). LABEL EVERYTHING AS YOU REMOVE IT (the item and where it came from). Invest in Zip-lock freezer bags (you can use a sharpy on them). Take pictures before you start if you can just for reference later. Definitely check at least (I would recommend replacing) the timing set, oil pump and water pump, it's much easier and cost effective to do it now rather than later as I did (just two weeks later...that sucked). If you have broken timing guides check the timing cover for wear from the timing chain as it can cause a water leak.
You said get a tap for the head bolts - what do you mean by that? I'm not familiar... I thought you would tap stripped threads?
#12
Running the tap through the threads in the block will clean out whatever rust and grime that could be in there. If you don't clean out the threads it can throw off your torque as you tighten the bolts which in turn can create a leak.
#14
Registered User
A vacuum isn't enough. Buy a thread chaser or do as Engnbldr has advised and cut some slots in an old head bolt to make your own chaser.
Run it all the way in and out until the threads are clear. Blow out the holes using compressed air. I shot in and blew out brake cleaner a few times.
Ted's advice for installing a head is here: http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showth...087&page=&vc=1
Run it all the way in and out until the threads are clear. Blow out the holes using compressed air. I shot in and blew out brake cleaner a few times.
Ted's advice for installing a head is here: http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showth...087&page=&vc=1
#16
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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make sure you have the right tap too.. it should be a M20 if iam not mistaken... but just take head bolt to advance auto parts or napa/autozone and use the tread checker
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