quick question with the afm I just bought a remaned one and the static resistance test and outta the box it is outta speck on the E2-VC test is out do I need to put a charge to it to get the right resistance or is it toast

 

No. You test it without it being plugged in. Define out. A lot, a little? If it's only a few ohms...it might not matter.

 

supossed to be 100-300k is 0.4ohm yo tell me is it out

 

Wait... 300 K ohms is 300,000 ohms....are you sure about that? .4 ohm would be 4 tenths of an ohm. Sure you have the decimal in the right place?

 

^^^ i've also had meters that will have a 'k' light up sometimes, and sometimes it will just show a decimal and/or 'k'.

 

sorry my bad it is supposed to be 100-300ohms and I am getting 0.4 ohms

 

I'm not gonna argue with Toyota on it then, "If not within specification, replace the volume air flow meter."

If it were mine, I'd be fighting an irresistable temptation to tear it open and try and fix it/figure it out. Odds are the thing ends up in pieces. More often than not, it ends up back in operation one way or another though. There are ways of fixing damn near anything, finding them is more of a challenge at times.

 

the piont was I just bought it from the parts store was wondering if you apply voltage if it would change the resistance in it

 

Right. I thought I covered that when I said:
And:
In trying to decipher what you're meaning by that, I'm assuming that you're mistaken as to how the thing works. What I could say to clarify things is:

There's nothing in there that would take a charge, and/or, that charge being present, even if it were, wouldn't affect the ohms of resistance in the circuit.

Yeah, take it back. You still got the receipt?

 

ok on my third new remaned vafm now it is still outta spec to the point that it is not even givin me spark I dont get this

 

I hope I don't offend you here but are you SURE you're reading your multimeter properly? And are you SURE you're reading the right pins? If you're testing E2-VC then you should be reading across the internal potentiometer which should give you the max resistance value of the system....unless there's an internal short, there's no way for that to be .4ohms. Are you sure you don't have your meter on a "k" setting like "2k"? If so, a reading of .4 would mean .4K which is really 400ohms which would put it exactly within spec.

The fact that your engine still does not work could mean there's a problem elsewhere in the system but I just find it hard to believe that in 3 different modules, you've gotten all 3 with internal shorts.

 

ok the first was out at 0.4ohms now on the 3rd I have an infinit reading between e2 and vc and it is going into safe mode and not running tell I reset the ecm then it will run for 20sec or so the weird thing is it read weird yesterday afternoon then checked out last night then this afternoon it was giving me a bad reading tested with diffrent meters and all is there a heat based issue with some of these remands or somthin

 

It sounds likeit has a short internally. I'd return it.

 

The likelyhood of three remanufactured VAFMs in a row being bad is pretty slim if they're from a reputable supplier. Any way you could borrow a known working VAFM to eliminate that possibility?

 

every one I tried has failed in a diffrent area not the same as 3 failed static and 2 failed dynamic and all in diffrent ways not one died the same death so not thinking my truck killing them