AFM question
#1
AFM question
quick question with the afm I just bought a remaned one and the static resistance test and outta the box it is outta speck on the E2-VC test is out do I need to put a charge to it to get the right resistance or is it toast
#7
I'm not gonna argue with Toyota on it then, "If not within specification, replace the volume air flow meter."
If it were mine, I'd be fighting an irresistable temptation to tear it open and try and fix it/figure it out. Odds are the thing ends up in pieces. More often than not, it ends up back in operation one way or another though. There are ways of fixing damn near anything, finding them is more of a challenge at times.
If it were mine, I'd be fighting an irresistable temptation to tear it open and try and fix it/figure it out. Odds are the thing ends up in pieces. More often than not, it ends up back in operation one way or another though. There are ways of fixing damn near anything, finding them is more of a challenge at times.
Last edited by MudHippy; 06-23-2011 at 07:16 PM.
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#9
Right. I thought I covered that when I said:
And:
In trying to decipher what you're meaning by that, I'm assuming that you're mistaken as to how the thing works. What I could say to clarify things is:
There's nothing in there that would take a charge, and/or, that charge being present, even if it were, wouldn't affect the ohms of resistance in the circuit.
Yeah, take it back. You still got the receipt?
And:
There's nothing in there that would take a charge, and/or, that charge being present, even if it were, wouldn't affect the ohms of resistance in the circuit.
Yeah, take it back. You still got the receipt?
Last edited by MudHippy; 06-24-2011 at 11:30 AM.
#11
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I hope I don't offend you here but are you SURE you're reading your multimeter properly? And are you SURE you're reading the right pins? If you're testing E2-VC then you should be reading across the internal potentiometer which should give you the max resistance value of the system....unless there's an internal short, there's no way for that to be .4ohms. Are you sure you don't have your meter on a "k" setting like "2k"? If so, a reading of .4 would mean .4K which is really 400ohms which would put it exactly within spec.
The fact that your engine still does not work could mean there's a problem elsewhere in the system but I just find it hard to believe that in 3 different modules, you've gotten all 3 with internal shorts.
The fact that your engine still does not work could mean there's a problem elsewhere in the system but I just find it hard to believe that in 3 different modules, you've gotten all 3 with internal shorts.
#12
ok the first was out at 0.4ohms now on the 3rd I have an infinit reading between e2 and vc and it is going into safe mode and not running tell I reset the ecm then it will run for 20sec or so the weird thing is it read weird yesterday afternoon then checked out last night then this afternoon it was giving me a bad reading tested with diffrent meters and all is there a heat based issue with some of these remands or somthin
#14
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The likelyhood of three remanufactured VAFMs in a row being bad is pretty slim if they're from a reputable supplier. Any way you could borrow a known working VAFM to eliminate that possibility?
Last edited by BMcEL; 06-27-2011 at 01:56 PM.
#15
every one I tried has failed in a diffrent area not the same as 3 failed static and 2 failed dynamic and all in diffrent ways not one died the same death so not thinking my truck killing them
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