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'94 Pickup Whine ~3k RPM

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Old 12-04-2015, 10:17 AM
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'94 Pickup Whine ~3k RPM

Hey everyone, here's the video I took. It doesn't matter whether I'm driving or not or which gear I'm in. This is just me on my driveway in neutral revving up the motor.


I thought it was an alternator whine but when I opened the hood it doesn't seem like it's coming from that area. It actually sounds like it's coming from the front top-ish of the motor. Just so you know, I recently (a few weeks ago) completed a timing chain, guides, sprockets, oil/water pump, timing cover, tensioner replacement. Parts from Egnbldr.com. There are no leaks and the job went smoothly. As you can see in the video, the oil pressure, coolant temp and voltage is normal.

Any ideas or theories?

Thanks

Last edited by Davebarbier; 12-05-2015 at 05:33 AM.
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:16 PM
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Bump?
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Old 12-08-2015, 12:16 AM
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It is difficult to diagnose from just the video, but it kind of sounds like a belt that needs to be broken in. I have had new belts, especially cheap ones, sound similar to that whining noise you have. That is easy to check. Just remove the belts and start the engine, but don't run it too long though for obvious reasons. If the noise stops, also check the idler pulleys for the power steering and A/C if you have it.
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Old 12-08-2015, 02:03 AM
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Thanks superbnerd, yeah I know it's hard to tell from a video like this but thought I'd ask. I've been trying to pinpoint where I think the noise is coming from. I was out with a screw driver stethoscope but it's still not easy to tell. I'm thinking power steering pump and that pulley has a little runout anyway. I may have adjusted the belts too tight.

The belts aren't new by the way. But thanks for the tip, I'll definitely do what you said. Seems like an easy test!
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Old 12-08-2015, 07:55 AM
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I would guess a bearing in some belt driven accessory, such as the alternator, PS pump, AC compressor, water pump, or one of the associated idler pulleys. You might be able to narrow it down by using a short length of garden hose as a stethoscope to listen to various components. Be very careful and keep hands and loose clothing well away from the belts. Hold the hose loosely.

Supernerd's suggestion to remove belts one at a time should also help narrow it down.
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Old 12-12-2015, 03:14 PM
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Ok, so I have two belts, one for water pump and alternator and another for power steering. I have no AC or other accessories. I removed the belt for the power steering and sure enough the noise is gone. Any way I can diagnose to see if it's the idler pulley or the PS pump? Listening with a hose and screw driver it really sounds like the PS pump pulley but it's so loud it's hard to tell for sure, but I'd bet money on that it's the PS pump.

So what now? PS pump is working fine but it seems the pulley bearings are bad. Can these be rebuilt or do I need to replace the pump?

I'm out with the truck and about to put the belt back on so hopefully it fixes itself. Any tips on how to tension the belt? In the past I've just tightened it until I can only turn the belt 90°. Could it be that it's too tight and wearing the pulley more quickly?

Thanks for all the help, you guys rock.
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Old 12-12-2015, 04:17 PM
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After putting the belt back on the noise went away... I guess I'll just wait and see what happens.
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Old 12-12-2015, 09:10 PM
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With the belt off, you can spin the pulleys by hand and see if any of them make noise. They will not make that same noise as when the engine is running. It is hard to describe the noise of a bad bearing spun by hand, but it is basically just loud. Maybe similar to a skateboard on pavement? It should be smooth and quiet.

Power steering pumps can be rebuilt, but I have not personally rebuilt one so I cannot offer much advice, but I have looked into it as I plan on rebuilding one that I have soon, and it looks fairly easy. I believe new ones are relatively cheap at Rockauto. A new bearing in the idler pulley is cheap if you just replace the bearing and not the pulley. I would try that first if the noise comes back if you are not sure where the noise is coming from.

Check your power steering fluid if you have not already done so.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:16 AM
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Thanks Supernerd, I spun that and the idler pulley and they both spin nicely. Obviously I can't spin it the same speed by hand as when the motor is running at 3k rpm, but I still didn't hear anything pointing to a bad bearing. I'll check fluid and make sure everything is good and then just see when it returns.

Thanks again
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Old 11-18-2017, 05:32 PM
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I forgot to update this with the solution. Earlier this summer the noise got really bad. I was going to a friend's house and then the noise changed. When I pulled into his driveway I opened the hood and my friend said my idler pulley was seized. So that was it. The noise was the idler pulley going bad. We went to Advance Auto and picked up another pulley. Easy install and it's been fine ever since.
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Old 03-05-2018, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Davebarbier View Post
...I spun that and the idler pulley and they both spin nicely....
Did you notice any play?

Originally Posted by Davebarbier View Post
... my idler pulley was seized. So that was it....
Hi Dave,
I occasionally hear a whine on mine as well.I took off belt and checked both power steering and idler pulleys for smooth spinning and play. Both spun smoothly, although the idler had a little play. However, your experience suggests that even if inspection seems OK, it could still fail all of a sudden.

All,
Do you guys think this power steering idler play is normal? Spins freely with no binding...

I oiled it, and am starting to research/shop. I understand that Dave simply bought replacement, but I wonder if anybody has changed just the bearing and IF it's any cheaper and not too complicated to do.
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Old 03-06-2018, 12:12 AM
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Old thread...

Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
Did you notice any play?


Hi Dave,
I occasionally hear a whine on mine as well.I took off belt and checked both power steering and idler pulleys for smooth spinning and play. Both spun smoothly, although the idler had a little play. However, your experience suggests that even if inspection seems OK, it could still fail all of a sudden.

All,
Do you guys think this power steering idler play is normal? Spins freely with no binding...
https://youtu.be/Rpsnu_wEaXg

I oiled it, and am starting to research/shop. I understand that Dave simply bought replacement, but I wonder if anybody has changed just the bearing and IF it's any cheaper and not too complicated to do.
Abnormal play in that bearing, source a new one. Lots of info on these in various threads for part numbers. It's a simple pull the clip smash bearing out push in a new sealed bearing type job. (I redid mine a little over a year ago, details somewhere in the turbo thread I think. It siezed in the middle.of know where Wyoming, got a new one a few days later from fastenal off the shelf..)

When you use a solid object as a listening device you need to block out the back ground sounds.. Screwdriver on object, thumb on screwdriver thumb firm against your ear and other ear blocked with finger. When you move the tip of the screwdriver the sound amplitude will change, the louder it is the closer you are to the source.

When you use the open tube method the best you are going to get is a more so in this direction "maybe" because the background sounds still enter the tube end. It works good for left ear right ear sort of stuff not so much a good substitute for a solid object. My preference is actually a wooden dowel, it has good heat insulation so can be used on very hot bits and no risk of burning your hand if you listen for a long time, good reach you don't have to out your hand near anything moving, and a bit of a damper effect of the magnitude, downfall is having to block one ear (you don't have to persay, but I close my eyes also and listen..)..

A mechanics stethoscope is a solid rod on the end of tubes fed to your ear hole. The issues with these is they don't always fit tight so you get lots of background sounds and they tend to have short tubes and a short rod (don't wear a tie and listen to your fan belt!)..
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Old 03-06-2018, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU View Post
Abnormal play in that bearing, source a new one. ...
...When you use a solid object as a listening device you need to block out the back ground sounds...
Awesome! Good to know bad news before it becomes worst news.

Found your post on it....
So did you end up getting a 6204-2rs as Millball suggested or 204-FF on Terry's post, or are they the same bearing?
Amazon carries an SKF (a brand I recognize for $9 free shipping:
Amazon Amazon

Also 22RE Performance video on Youtube How to do it...

And thanks for the tips on listening devices. Knowing how things are supposed to sound is one of the most important skills we learn.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 03-06-2018 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 03-06-2018, 01:33 AM
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The 6204-2rs, from the local fastenal it was under 4$ after taxes. And I'm pretty sure it was an skf branded unit.
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Old 03-06-2018, 01:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Co_94_PU View Post
The 6204-2rs, from the local fastenal it was under 4$ after taxes. And I'm pretty sure it was an skf branded unit.
Cool and thanks! We have a local Fastenal, too. Will go there tomorrow.
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Old 03-06-2018, 03:34 AM
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Hey RAD, yeah mine felt nice but still seized eventually. The day it seized I went to Advance Auto and got a replacement pulley for $20. I could have replaced the bearing only, but Id have to wait for that to come in and drive without power steering and Im a weakling so that wouldnt be fun.

The pulley I got wasnt a perfect fit, though. The shaft hole was fine, it just needed washers to be aligned but its still working perfectly. Good luck.
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Old 03-06-2018, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner View Post
Cool and thanks! We have a local Fastenal, too. Will go there tomorrow.
turns out not skf..

Thread link part number I got is there.
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