Hello everyone i have found many posts of this issue but never found an answer. Here is what i have. 94 pick with a 3.0. I recently replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor. It ran great for a weekend. Took it off roading and ended up in a water hole where it stalled out. I have cleaned everything out of the air tubes (there was water in there). But now the truck will start for a few seconds and then instant stall. Even if i give it gas it will instant stall. I have checked alot of things. Its getting fuel and spark. i checked all fuses and they are good. Does anyone have any idea what i should do next? Im not sure where to start.

 

Any help?

 

i was having the same problem, intermittent shut down every now and then, replaced a couple parts, including battery terminals. again same problem. so one day having the hood open and engine idling , is suddenly died, and i could hear a buzzing and some light smoke coming from the positive battery harness, so i said - here is the problem - came out to be a very oxidized cable that goes from positive terminal to main fuse box were the EFI main is located. Upgraded cable and terminals got rid of problem. also fixed dim lights in cluster panel and interior lights. hope this helps.

 

When you got stuck in the water hole... did any water enter the engine compartment? Specifically the driver's side? If so, it might have damaged the VAFM. Without a solid signal from the VAFM the truck will never start. Ever.

 

Fortunately, this part is easy to check. Jumper FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector. With key-on, the fuel pump should start (you can hear it standing next to the diagnostic connector.) If the engine will then start and run, that tells you you have a problem in the VAF-COR circuit.

Unfortunately, if you got any water in the induction system it could have been sucked into a cylinder; it only takes about a tablespoon to hydrolock. You could have bent a rod, or if lucky, just blown the headgasket. I'd check the compression before I went much farther.

 

i had somethin like that happen...got a code 14 which was ignnitian signal. my igniter went bad so when the ecm didnt get a IGF signal (I Got Fire) the ecm cut power to fuel injectors and thats what cause my bucking and stallin goin down the road till eventually wouldnt start no more... after sitting a day it would start up fine till it started gettin heat under the hood.. then electrical connections werent makin contact or somethin... check to see if you pull a code... i did and no check light was on

 

The compression is fine. I most likely did get water some water in but only in the air box. I still have a fresh air filter( one side was dirty other was clean so makes me think that not alot of water went through the filter) I am still having an issue with it starting. I can get it to run shortly if i spray ether in the intake which makes me think i didnt hydro lock it. I will try the connector Jumper FP to B+ on the diagnostic connector test tonight. Does anyone else have any ideas whatelse i can check. I cleaned the gas and also took out all spark plugs incase water was locked in there.

 

Anyone have a diagram of the layout for the diagnostic connector. I just want to make sure i an looking at the correct spot

 

There's a label on the inside of the cap covering the connector.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...87fuelpump.pdf

 

If this doesnt work any other ideas? I know its getting spark and fuel

 

How do you know? What you described is a classic case of VAF-COR cutting off the fuel.

If your engine is getting spark, fuel, air and compression, it pretty much has to run.

 

Here is what happened yesterday. I just the connector and i got it to start. It would run with me constantly pushing down the gas pedal but it would not idle. Is that what would happen when i jump the switch? Before i could even get it to stay running so this time it seems to be a little bit of improvement. Let me know if this is how it works. So i am thinking i am going to order a MAss air flow sensor today and see if it fixes the problem.

 

Take things one step at a time.

If it didn't run at all without the FP-B+ jumper ("I just the connection..."??), and it runs (at all) with it, then you have a problem in the VAF-COR circuit.

But just because you fix that doesn't mean the rest of the truck is working. All the jumper does is force the pump to run whenever the key is on; it doesn't fix your problems with timing, etc. Which is a likely (and easy to check) cause of idle problems.

I wouldn't order a Mass air flow sensor; if you do there will be no where to put it. You have a VAF, either a Volume Air Flow sensor or Vane Air Flow sensor. They aren't cheap (about $550), so if it were me I'd get out my ohmmeter (http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html) and run through the diagnostics first. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...92volumeai.pdf

But you probably already did that.