I have a 94’ Toyota Pickup 3.0 3VZE Manual Trans. I have owned this truck for 15 years and has close to 400K on the odometer and is starting to show its age. Has always ran great. Had noticed a rough idle when engine was at operating temp for quite some time. Truck then got to where it would spit and sputter and fall on its face under load, you could always clutch it and rev it up and it would come out of it, this problem was starting to happen more frequently. Truck has sat for a couple of months and has not been started. I now have a crank no start issue. I decided it was probably the fuel pump as I have never put one in it. I installed new fuel pump and still same issue crank no start. I have jumped wire in diag box and have working fuel pump with in spec pressure. Have tested for spark and appear to have good spark. I believe my issue is injectors not firing. If I let the truck sit overnight and try and start it it will run for a couple of seconds then die and will not hit again which makes me think the injectors are bleeding off into the cylinders overnight and I am getting it to hit on the leak off fuel. I have performed resistance check to AFM per Chilton manual and have found it to be in spec. I have checked ground wire on back on pass side head which I believe is for injectors and it is tight with no sign of corrosion. I am kind of stumped at this point as I have no great diagnostic manual to perform any electrical checks. I am suspect bad ECU but maybe way out of pocket thinking that. Was wondering if someone could point me in some sort of direction on where to start.
Thank you

 

Have also checked all fuses and swapped EFI relay with Start Relay and still same issue. Have searched and read every thread on this forum for this issue and I am stumped.

 

Update on truck, can move AFM by hand and fuel pump will come on and off. Have tested one injector pig tail with noid light and have voltage to injector. Removed spark plug on the passenger side of engine, different side of engine than noid light test. Spark plug wet with fuel and tested spark on plug and have good spark. I am stumped.

 

so you see pulses flashing with the noid light, not a steady state on condition? i'd leave the test jumper in while troubleshooting, eliminate the afm as a control point for the fuel pump.

was the fuel filter changed when the pump was done? this sounds like a weird problem, what with wet plugs and spark but not running.

it could be running for a couple of seconds off of the cold start injector... maybe do that, then pull a vacuum line off the plenum and squirt some starting fluid or carb cleaner into the plenum, see if it runs for another second or two.

 

Yes i am seeing pulses on the noid light while cranking. Fuel filter has not been chagned. Cold start injector does not work as I broke the connector portion off the top of the sensor in the manifold against the firewall a couple of years ago removing a heater core hose. Cold start injector hasnt worked for a couple of years but truck has always started even in super cold conditions. Fuel did not smell very good, i am going to pull a fuel sample tonight and see if there is any water in the fuel. As well as disabling the fuel pump and hitting it with some ether tonight. Will update with my findings.

 

I fooled with truck last night and I think I may have water in the fuel. I took return line off of the fuel sender and pumped half a water bottle full of gas. Had some water in the bottom of the bottle. I can get the truck to hit on ether but as soon as I hook the fuel pump back on I cant get it to do anything. That would make sense why it would hit a couple of times after sitting all night. The water was dry from the plugs then as soon as the injectors sprayed and got the plugs wet again nothing. As the pump sucks fuel from the bottom of the tank im gonna pursue that route and hopefully can get it running this evening.

 

Run a 1/4" (6mm) clear vinyl line from the return line on the FPR to a suitable container. When you jumper FP to B+, the fuel pump will run with key on. For as long as you want. You can then just run it until you are certain you have no water. (While you're at it, measure the flow. There is no spec, but I get about 1/2 liter/minute.)

 

Thats how I found out I had a bad fuel pump. I jumped the power to the pump, can't remember exactly how, and disconnected the supply side of the cold start injector to find out whether or not there was fuel getting pumped. You have to jump the power to the pump because otherwise the MAF has the fuel shut off. The MAF doesn't allow power to get to the fuel pump until the engine is turning over. I guess you could turn the engine over and see if theres any fuel coming out of the cold start injector, but I was going by some book and I don't know if that was an option

 

I decided to take the intake plenum off last night so i could ohm check the injectors and perform noid light test on all 6 injector terminals. I had shoved blue shop rags down in the intak manifold holes to prevent debris from enter. I had my wife turn over engine while noid light hooked up and completely forgot about the shop rags. One of the rags blew out of the intake and hit the ceiling in my garage. Removed the rag and turned the engine over a few time and noticed smoke coming out of every intake hole. Removed everything to be able to inspect the timing belt. Found the passenger side cam to be at the 3 o clock position with the engine at TDC compression and the drivers side came gear to be at 12 o clock position. It appears that belt having worn cogs slipped the engine out out of time. My only thinking is the truck sitting like it was something in the valve train was a little sticky that made it turn over a little harder and the belt spun. I ve ordered new parts and hope to have it together this week. Fingers crossed itll start.