Ok, so anyway...

wanted to try out the new torque wrench..wanted to put some of my steering linkage back together too, sooooo 2 birds with one stone and also put my steering stabilizer back on.....since I didn't need to have that out of the way anymore.



BEFORE.......




AFTER.......




Lots of grease behind the tensioner....gonna have to see what that's about if I have to put grease in there or something.

some close-up pics of the broken stuff....

tensioner



passenger's side guide....i did not realize this was broken off at the top



driver's side guide......going to have to do a comparisson of old and new to get an idea of how much broke off.

 

I'm going to decorate a pic of the front of the block to point out some holes I intend to block off for cleaning.....be right back...

 

3 holes I've marked with red that I assume have something to do with the flow of oil.



before I go scraping a scrubbing and cleaning, I'm going to plug these holes...i have a little something special for that....some expired and reallocated stuff.

 

It does look like we are at about the same stage! Only difference is my motor is on an engine stand. How do your cylinder walls look? Have much of a ridge?

 

no, nothing.

i was just out there cleaning up the front of the block for the timing stuff.

also was cleaning the top of the block....lot's of little holes to stay away from.

yeah....ummm...the tap thingy i bought....don't like it...feel like it goes in about 3 threads and gets tight....tried it on 3 holes...same each time....put a head bolt in...smooth as butter.

going to go on the snap-on site and look for a thread chaser, not a tap.

 

Why is that fram piece of trash still on there?

 

hahahahhaha

i'm gonna do an autopsy on it.

1st run , i will use up my other fram since i'm gonna trash it after about 10 minutes running...and then switch to Napa or K&N or something.

 

I hear the OEM ones aren't so expensive if you buy them by the case from the dealership.

 

Are you using the tap dry or with some oil? The tap is not supposed to be loose in the hole by any means. You should need to put a wrench on it & run it through with out to much effort, just be sure it is strait. Are you 100% sure that it is the right pitch tap? Hold the treads on the tap up to the threads on one of your head bolts & be sure the "teeth" line up. My head bolt holes tapped out pretty easy.

 

says

12 x 1.25

 

hey 92 toy....can you tell me why you are not taking the engine out and put it on a engine stand or something? you have done soooo much work that you didnt have to if you put the engine out.

 

true, very true.

Lazy?? Nervous??

1st time jitters i guess....oh I've dreamed of it....doing things the hard way builds character, and ulcers.

 

That should be the right tap, try putting a little oil on it. If it really does feel bad, then don't listen to me, the last thing you want is to cross thread the hole or break the tap in it.

 

that is true....

 

was oiled in it's packaging but i will oil it up nice too.

don't want any additional headaches and heartaches.


as far as pulling the engine....yeh, this is my 1st time doing anything for myself...had a clue, but not so much.

so in regards to that, don't have an engine stand / hoist etc.

but...did just say yesterday i wouldn't mind buying a 22re block and a stand a creating an engine in the basement as a project when i'm done with this one.......maybe to put in my son's truck.

 

took a head bolt. cleaned it off nice and threaded in in and out several times. would ooze oil on the way in and bring some crud with it on the way out. did the 6 front-most holes so far.

tap is not going to do it...feels too tight.

 

Hmm... Can you post a pic of the tap and a head bolt with the threads lined up? If it is the correct pitch, you should be able to tell by doing this. If ANY of the threads dont line up, it isn't the right pitch.

If it is the correct pitch, the pressure you are feeling may be due to the cutting edges of the tap contacting the walls of the block. This can be fine, or very bad, depending on if the tap is threaded in correctly. If the tap is threaded in properly, no big deal. Remember that a tap is primarily for the use of cutting new threads into an unthreaded hole, and so is usually slightly larger in diameter than a bolt would be. As a result, a tap will usually fit fairly snugly into an already threaded hole, and will almost certainly require a wrench to turn.

The other thing that can cause a tap to be difficult to turn is cross threading, so be careful! The tap should be exactly perpendicular to the block from every direction, if it looks bent to one side at all you are cross threaded. If a head bolt threads nicely down the hole in question, and you can get a tap to turn nicely for 3 or 4 complete turns, you are probably in good shape to continue tapping the hole. There should be moderate, consistant pressure on the tap, I would guess about 10 ft/lbs or so. If it is difficult to turn with a wrench, it is cross threaded or the wrong pitch.

 

HEY, IT'S NOT JUST ME!!

 

like I said, I've gotten 6 out of 10 done already......I'm not going to use the tap at all for fear of a problem.

the bolt is doing fine....pushing oil out as it goes. i'm going to wick out the rest of the oil.

 

Good luck, you will probably never get it all out. Just get what you can, and roll with it. It certainly doesn't have to be perfect.