well, i'm not sure why, but i am getting an error message when i try to load pics to here.

 

Ok...so while I was waiting for the ERROR message to clear, I did some side-by-side picture comparisons with OLHARLEY's headgasket.

Looks to me like.....
#1) the gasket he has is FAR MORE SUBSTANTIAL than the one on mine

#2) there are some parts to my gasket that make it look like it's more of a UNIVERSAL fit than anything...meaning there are little holes in the gasket where little holes are on his, but they are little holes in an area where a big hole could be.....kinda looks like bulging aluminum foil that needs to be poked at. But when I compare to his, it's the same size hole. Understand?

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OK...for lack of better things to do right now, I am going to post the condition of the bolts as they came out of the block..............


When you count the head bolts 1 thru 10, with 1,2,3,4,5 on the driver's side starting from the front and 6,7,8,9,10 on the passenger's side counting from the front I will give the condition of each bolt.

#1) Dry...no problem

#2) Dry...had to "unscrew" it all the way out, could not just pull it out

#3) Oily...otherwise,no problem

#4) DRY but VERY TIGHT!!!..basically had to use the breaker bar almost the whole way and then this was the one that I could not get out of the hole and finally had to lever it out.

#5) Oily...no problem undoing it...but I did have to leave it in while I pulled the head off because I couldn't get it all the way out because of heater hoses in the way above it.

#6) Dry...no problem

#7) Dry...no problem

#8) Very oily....no problem

#9) Dry, no problem

#10) No problem unbolting, very drippy oily and milky

So what the hell does it all mean???

 

And here's a REALLY CRAPPY attempt at labeling this picture....coulda done better with a crayon in my left hand or trying to draw with my foot.

[IMG][/IMG]

 

Dpending on wich way you go with this build "take out the block or leave it in" you will need to figure out a way to clean out the holes and chase all the threads for your head bolts if you decide to not take it to a machine shop. With that being said, you should totally take to a machine shop and get the job done right. Time is money and in the long run the other guys are right in saying it will only be a matter of time untill the motor malfunctions again. To be honest I've been in your shoes with a blown head gasket and bad timing chain on a daily driver with no other car. I didn't want to be in the same situation again and had to bite the bullet and rebuild. In hind sight my motor wasn't nearly as "bad" as yours but still warranted a rebuild. My total caost was in the range of 700.00 to 850.00 and thats with a street head, rv cam, new to me block, and the goodies that come with it. It seems as though you're in a better situation than i was with the other vehicles and all so take your time and use you best judgment. Also check your freeze plugs if they are the slightest bit weak take them out and clean the blocks coolant passages that way. lce has good replacement one that i used and they are easy to install with a rubber mallet and the appropriate size socket. Good luck man i've been watching this thread intently and keep up the good work!

 

tanx man.

 

92 the best way to check your block and head are to

1. clean all the gasket material off both

2. now with both bare head and block get a straight edge and lay it across(put it on it's edge) all the surfaces in every direction you can get it to check the edge

3. with the straight edge set on the surface grab a set of feeler gauges and try to slide any of the gauges under the edge

4. record any and all sizes of the feeler gauges that slide under the edge

5. compare all your readings on the block and head if there's any difference in the "gap" between your readings over .10 thousands get it machined.

 

I will take and heed any advice you guys give me....especially if it's not going to cost me $$$$. Not to knock any of the advice that has been given, but reality is this.....too much demand, not enough supply, want less or wait longer. Problem is, as a daily driver, the vehicle needs to make a 36mile trip (18miles each way) 3 or 4 x's a week (I work long hours but less days).

What I'm getting at is this.........I WOULD LOVE to pull all my junky / rusty ,crappy parts out, get them dinner-plate clean and put it all back together and stand back and be so proud, but reality sucks!

BAD!

So reality is, I will probably shine up what I can, replace my timing chain cover and chain ,put my old oil pump and water pump back on and my head back on and see if I could get this thing started again.

While doing all ths I will keep in mind that I may visit this engine again real soon, but this time in a smoother, less apprehensive manner.

And at the same time, saving up those pennies for that rainy day....which I always fail to believe is coming.

 

Whoa!.......

That was depressing.

Anyway.........could you guys weigh in about the headgasket. Do you think it failed, and why is there oil in some holes and not in others???

What is up with that. I'm sure I could "wick" out the oil and I'm not apprehensive about that, just whay was it there in some holes but not others????

 

I'm not sure why the some are oily and some are dry...Mine were the same as yours and I would gather that they are all like this.

I don't think the HG Failed...
You can clean it.
You can scrape the head and block
you can clean out the oil and water passages in the head
The tough part is cleaning the oil and water passages in the block.

This is something that really needs done. You have oil mixed with water, not good. You have to get it all out of the oil!!! Also you have that goop in the coolant system that needs cleaned out.

You can just clean the head scrape off the gasket material off the head and block and put it all back together. She'll run for a while probably for sometime but the next thing to go will probably be a lower bearing.

Count you pennies, save a few more and get the parts you need. Do the best you can with the funds you have. Don't worry about what you "think" you can or can't do cuz "you can do it".

 

I'm not going to try to pretend I know anywhere near as much as OlHarley or Lumpy but that said I have been following your thread as I find it extremely interesting.
I had a 3.0 blow the head gaskets and I had them replaced by a toyota tech and all he did was put new gaskets and head bolts in without resurfacing the head and it ran fine for a while before I sold it. He told me it was unlikely that the heads would warp.

anyways, I would think you could get away with just putting the head back on with a new timing set and head gasket. The 22re is a sturdy little engine and as long as you didn't run it with coolant in the oil for a long period of time I imagine your bearings on the bottom end should be fine.

 

Thanks.

Now I'm definitely not going to disregard the advice anyone has given me. But,like I said, reality sucks.

Do it right ,do it once is my intention, but the gravity of all my financial obligations and so on and so forth are gonna make this either be a 2 year rebuild until I could assemble all the necessary ingredients, or,more likely, I'm going to dig into this twice. Once now, and a 2nd time soon.

These guys have been helping me along since I joined in January and started singing my Blues. I know my situaton is in no way unique, but it's my situation so it bothers the hell out of me.

Anyway....my thoughts are that realistically, I think I found the reason for the failure (timing chain) and since I parked it that night (broke down about 2/10 of a mile from my house and got pulled home it seems unlikely I warped something.

So.....anyway, gotta wait a few more pay-days to get what I need just to do a cursory job.

 

Oh yeah, P.S.............thanks for the compliments on the thread.

This is for all the guys nervous as all hell to start digging in. I remeber saying I need a thread that says "step 1, open the hood"....and I do know I put that line in there when I started my tear-down.

It's like a movie I will have to play in reverse to put things back together. Hopefully!

 

With the combination of the freeze plug removal and cleaning the cooling passages in your block that way there is also a way to clean the block's oil passages by removing the oil galley plugs and flushing them out that way. there is one in the rear of the block, the front, and under the oil pan. I haven't removed them to clean my old block personally but that might be a means to an end in reference to getting the "gunk" out of your motor. When i bought my new block they were all removed and i had to replace them but they seem to be an easy access rought to cleaning the block out and are easy to locate and remove once the engine is removed. The oil pressure sensor is also connected to the oil passages.

 

That is engnbldrs head gasket and it is a TURBO head gasket so it is a little thicker then the stock head gasket and not to beat you up about and you know by now that is not my intentions I say go for the engnbldr rebuild kit here

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...d=p3911.c0.m14

everything you need is there minus the timing cover and like I said if you need one I still have a good one pay the shipping to your house and it yours this way you get the bearings you need for the bottom end and all the gasket plus the oil pump and you can put the freeze plugs and pistons away until you can afford to do it all the right way.

Or you can go to $300 and get this kit with the 268 cam you can't beat it and you will love the cam and how it preforms it will really wake your motor up hell you got to feel how it turns my 35's and I can run 80 mph no problem with your 31's it would really be a noticeable power boost. Hell if you get this kit and I get some time I may just roll up and help you build it for fun.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...d=p3911.c0.m14

 

This is weird.

I don't have that little stud sticking out from my block on the front near the opening for the timing chain. Mine is on the head. ?????????????

OLHARLEY....there is NO DOUBT that I will be getting my stuff from ENGNBLDR. You don't have to feel like you are beating me down with that when you say it. I as searching last night and found a complete gasket kit for like $59 +shipping and a timing chin cover with new chain and steel guides for $86 +shipping...and I'm sure if I bought both at the same time, he would combine shiping....So, it comes to about $150 to do a cursory job (not REALLY cursory, considering the new chain and cover).

 

If you look under 22re on e-bay you can find his kits he sells there and there is a rebuild kit he sells(well TOD as engnbldrjr) for I believe it was $135-$150 with almost everything you need to freshin up your motor.

I know your time is limited so I did a little searching for you if you don't need some of these parts trade them out for the ones you do need like if your not really needing the rings or the main and rod bearings trade them for the new head bolts kit or the oil seals wheel and deal your way the the timing cover he did little trades like that for me when I told him I had the new bearings and crank, you will also need to trade the double timing chain for the single another thing I am sure he will do for you.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...item58837e08a5

 

thanks.....i've been working so i haven't been available at all. what about that stud????

 

If it's the one in the picture here it's just an alignment pin and I believe that they just either stick in the head or the block I see your rear one is in the block so that leads me to believe that they get hot and stick into either the head or the block just depending on with side cools first but I would not let it bother you as long as you have it on one side or the other.

 

yeah that's the one....and yes,it's on my head.