is it just me, or does the exhaust valve on #2 look stuck open?

 

Well with the cam in and the rocker assembly still there It's probably still sitting open. The rockers are probably just stuck to the head...

 

I was thinking the same thing bleeder, looks open quite a bit

 

ah, true, they do have a tendancy to "stick" to the head...

I just assumed that since the head was off, the rocker assembly was off too, lol, even though it's still on the head in the other pics

 

This picture cocerns me.

Are these blocked totally or partially???

Seems like these correspond with the open areas on the underside of the head.

In some spots it looks like the headgasket is covering the holes right up, in others I hav to wonder if it's the Thermagasket.

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And the corresonding underside of the head......

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What about this picture?

This looks to me like it's the likely area of failure. Directly beind the water pump. Sorry if it's a crappy pic but its hard to get the camera to focus in that area and still get a flash.

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I think you found the original water leak yes.

But you also showed why I never use thermogasket.

It is partially blocking your water ports and would make it run hotter.

Time to rip the block out !!!

 

2X on this...Sorry 92 but you have more work to do...

 

well, it's like this. if i put a band-aid on it , who knows how long it would be before i am back where i am today.

if i basically make it like it's new, it's peace of mind.

now no more peer pressure, because from here on out it's $$$$$$$$$$$.

BUT..........there's gonna still be some freebie action to be had.....getting the crankshaft bolt out, timing cover off and probably the block out.

but i'm outa time for now.

 

that block out yet ? haha

 

yeh....but my camera isn't working.







uh-, no.

 

haha. if it didn't need cleaned so badly *cough* thermogasket

I would have just rebuilt it in the truck

 

That's the bad part...just trying to get all the gunk out.

 

ENGNBLDR Master Kit in order everything you need just find out piston size before ordering $229 to your door + $89 for a 268 cam can't beat it.

 

I have a good head if you want it let me know and pay for shipping it was the one that came off the block I just rebuilt and replaced with the L.C. pro street head still has the cam in it too. As for your block I agree send it to the shop and get it all checked out and cleaned up then you can do like BLEEDER and I did and make it all Pretty lol.

 

If I'm figuring this right......

I should pull my block, definitely get it machined etc to make sure there's no damage and to clean out the passages (is there any other way???.......something I could do???)

As far as the head goes, i'm going to stick with the current opinion that the headgasket did not fail. I have someone coming over today with that wrench (hopefully) and maybe he will give me his opinion too.

how can little ol' me avoid taking this stuff to a machine shop. never mind that A) i have no clue where? B) i have no clue how i would do that since i don't have a truck now C) is THAT really necessary?

I could see cleaning stuff up and all that but methinks it's some overkill at ths point. If what I need are clean valves and this that and the other thing but don't have an issue with warpage or leaks, I really need to question the need for machining. I knw it's for the sake of mating surfaces and all, but hmmmmmm.

I'm not questioning the need to pull the block. at this point it sounds easier than all the crap involved in getting at the oil pan.

OLHARLEY....you sure are a generous man......you've offered me everything you have so far. i'd still say, i'm good and thanks for the offer. Now if you find a bucket of money, i will never turn you down.

I'm thinking Penn State colors...............

 

If you are on a tight budget and this was your ONLY vehicle.

You could buy a new headgasket kit with bolts.

New timing chain kit. Use jb weld on the housing where you think it failed.

Brush the heck out of the head and piston tops and cylinder block top.

Reinstall everything. It will run for another 20k miles as long as something else doesn't fail.

I've done that before.

Also, you can haul the block around (dissassembled) in your trunk.

I've picked up 455 oldsmobile rocket blocks out of my boat. Those weigh almost 400 pounds ....

I'm not big by any means, but if you're stupid enough you can do it.

The 4 cyl blocks weigh only 200 pounds or so.


Machine shops ? No clue on the east coast, we use NAPA or Action auto parts & machine

 

I know what it is to be on a tight budget and I figure if someone can use it it's better then sitting in my garage plus one dayI may need favovor and Karma will remember when I did some good for someone else.

As for do you need to do the block well that is a yes and no answer
if you don't you can do your best to clean it up and rebuild it and get ? miles out of and wonder how long before something else gives out.

If you do then you can drive for 1-2 maybe even 3 hundered thousand with out worrying to much about the next thing to go out and when it will happen, if you drop 8-1200 bucks into the rebuild you will get as many if not more miles out of it as you have now on a brand new motor like it was from the factory.

As for the bucket of money I will share some of it with you but you are like # 10 on the list so it better be a BIG bucket of money.

 

The main reason in your case I'm thinking is that with the goop that was dumped in the coolant. The head and block "should" mate up just fine. You should do the lower end, bearing and such, because even a little bit of water in there will cause issues and excessive ware.

As far as taking the block and head to a shop... There are many little ports on the block and head that are/have been plugged or partially clogged. Taking it to the shop will also help to get all the coolant out of the oil passages.

As the smart folks above have stated...she'll run and quite well for quite sometime but you'll be in there again.

If nothing else do the bearings in the crank and connecting rods, you will need to use plasticgauge to get the correct bearing size. Then Clean the heck out of all the passages as well as you can. Get all the gunk out!!!

 

Again. How can I tell if the headgasket failed? I haven't scraped any gasket stuff off or anything. In fact, I haven't done ANYTHING to it since Wednesday. I'm trying to decide the level of severity here. This will determine what I do next. I wanted to get this thing running by winter.....highly unlikely here.

BUT.......the CHEAPO way through this would be to get all that crap out of the top of the head, get a new timing chain cover, put the cover on and put the head on with new bolts and gasket and get it back on the road.

When I win a bunch of money, tear it down and do it right. Honestly, were it not for the hesitation and the "where does that go?" moments, I probably could have had this whole thing apart in 2 hours. And to be honest with you, I only have about 8 total hours into this over the last few weeks. My life is not my own........those with a family understand that one....so whereas I DO have the time, I don't always have the opportunity.

I wold LOVE if someone would post what a picture of a failed headgasket looks like. Also the closest I've cme to seeing a pic of the block with a gasket on it is when OLHARLEY was doing his.

I am going to go back and search his thread and BLEEDER's thread and see.

To me, on my block ,there are alot of holes (how's that for techncal talk?)...but of those "alot of holes", a good most of them are covered up by gasket. Doesn't seem right to me but what do I know?

If I need to post better pics of my block, I will, to show what I am talking about.