92 TOY's 22re / crapped out / gotta start somewhere / thread
#22
Contributing Member
I think you better pull the oil pan and clean it as well all that plastic is sitting in the sump and doe's not come out when draining the oil.
Also I think you should go check out engnbldr for the steel side guide kit so you have a lot less chance of this happening again and if you need a new timing cover I have one I will send you for the shipping cost that is in good shape and I can send the dvd I got after my motor rebuild to you at the same time.
Also I think you should go check out engnbldr for the steel side guide kit so you have a lot less chance of this happening again and if you need a new timing cover I have one I will send you for the shipping cost that is in good shape and I can send the dvd I got after my motor rebuild to you at the same time.
#23
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
thanks Olharley.......
yeah i was just out there looking at it......that's a mess!
that little piece is wedged in there just right , i wonder if the distributor is stuck in there by that. that guide should surround on 2 sides right? i see it on the back but nothing there on the driver's side where the grooves are.
No play in the chain as it sits though. i'm wondering how i clean all that mess off the rockers? I guess the best way is to pull the head but i REALLY don't want to. I want to give the timing chain theory it's full due. so i want to approach this,for now as just doing the timing chain and cover.
i'm doing what i can, for free, for now. Vacation drained us dry so it's going to be a little bit for $$$ to start amassing parts. for now i will strategize.
i saw Engnbldr had timing cover kits for about $86 i think and i think that may include an oil pump too, i may be wrong, i will check ebay.
i intended to change the oil pan gasket because of some leakage but now it will be to clean it out properly.
gonna study the FSM / Haynes and Chilton's as well as 4Crawler's write-ups.
Thanks for the offer......I'll PM you at some point soon when I figure out what I'm doing.
yeah i was just out there looking at it......that's a mess!
that little piece is wedged in there just right , i wonder if the distributor is stuck in there by that. that guide should surround on 2 sides right? i see it on the back but nothing there on the driver's side where the grooves are.
No play in the chain as it sits though. i'm wondering how i clean all that mess off the rockers? I guess the best way is to pull the head but i REALLY don't want to. I want to give the timing chain theory it's full due. so i want to approach this,for now as just doing the timing chain and cover.
i'm doing what i can, for free, for now. Vacation drained us dry so it's going to be a little bit for $$$ to start amassing parts. for now i will strategize.
i saw Engnbldr had timing cover kits for about $86 i think and i think that may include an oil pump too, i may be wrong, i will check ebay.
i intended to change the oil pan gasket because of some leakage but now it will be to clean it out properly.
gonna study the FSM / Haynes and Chilton's as well as 4Crawler's write-ups.
Thanks for the offer......I'll PM you at some point soon when I figure out what I'm doing.
#24
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
Hey.....stupid question (i know, i know)....do i HAVE to replace my timing chain??? Or can I just replace the cover and driver's side guide and maybe tensioner????
just trying to not OVERKILL this either. like i don't want to pull the head without being certain i have to.
i guess i won't really know what i need until i pull the timing cover off......stand by.....it's not gonna be real soon.
that gunk by the rockers that i see.....i bet that is thermagasket mixed with oil. has the consistency of oily sand....no big clunkers....am i going to be able to get that out of there???
where would the timing chain rub-through?? i can see the scoring down the side but thats it. would it be much lower out of sight?
questions......i got questions......and the jitters now!
just trying to not OVERKILL this either. like i don't want to pull the head without being certain i have to.
i guess i won't really know what i need until i pull the timing cover off......stand by.....it's not gonna be real soon.
that gunk by the rockers that i see.....i bet that is thermagasket mixed with oil. has the consistency of oily sand....no big clunkers....am i going to be able to get that out of there???
where would the timing chain rub-through?? i can see the scoring down the side but thats it. would it be much lower out of sight?
questions......i got questions......and the jitters now!
#26
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
Under Decals and stickers is James Dean Creations....the sticker was from him.
Not really anticipating need for parts........timing cover etc..will probably come from ENGNBLDR....the reputation of quality and customer service has sold me on dealing squarely with them.
this is going to be a methodical / obsessive-compulsive kinda job.......i want to do this once and right while not over-doing anything as well (it it ain't broke....) so that is why i'm questioning pulling the head and waiting for input on that.
FSM says pull the head to do the timing cover, several YOTATECHers have said the timing chain cover can be replaced without doing that.
today's goal will be to probably remove pulleys and such off the front to see the outside of the timing cover and making a template to put the screws in so i don't mix them up (a horrible mistake i hear).
my concern right now is the appearance of RUST? (looks more red than anything) on the lobes of the cam....i'm wondering if this is destined to cause a failure and where else is there rust too.
i have no interest or even capability to PULL the engine so i am piece-mealing this prior to making a final judgement on that.
again i'm hoping that the timing cover failed onthe driver's side but i guess i won't know that for sure until it's pulled off.
thanks for the parts offer.....hopefully won't need them.
Not really anticipating need for parts........timing cover etc..will probably come from ENGNBLDR....the reputation of quality and customer service has sold me on dealing squarely with them.
this is going to be a methodical / obsessive-compulsive kinda job.......i want to do this once and right while not over-doing anything as well (it it ain't broke....) so that is why i'm questioning pulling the head and waiting for input on that.
FSM says pull the head to do the timing cover, several YOTATECHers have said the timing chain cover can be replaced without doing that.
today's goal will be to probably remove pulleys and such off the front to see the outside of the timing cover and making a template to put the screws in so i don't mix them up (a horrible mistake i hear).
my concern right now is the appearance of RUST? (looks more red than anything) on the lobes of the cam....i'm wondering if this is destined to cause a failure and where else is there rust too.
i have no interest or even capability to PULL the engine so i am piece-mealing this prior to making a final judgement on that.
again i'm hoping that the timing cover failed onthe driver's side but i guess i won't know that for sure until it's pulled off.
thanks for the parts offer.....hopefully won't need them.
#27
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
Well, here I am, it's raining today and I've done all my chores.......so now it's time to mess around.......
Belive it or not I have a 19mm socket (YAY!) but no breaker bar (BOOOO!)....ut anyway was able to set at 0...I assume TDC.....had to do it twice to get the cam to show it's little nubs (see, I do pay attention)
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
But now I've stopped, for 2 reasons.....I can't figure out what to do with the distributor and should I pop that 19mm bolt off 1st and if so I nedto get me a breaker bar and #2 I have air-conditioning (not really, the belt broke a ew years ago and i never got it fixed...who needs it when you have this many windows??
Anyway, if anybody has a clue what bolts are NECESSARY to remove to get this cover off, let me know.
Here's a pic.....
[IMG][/IMG]
Thank goodness for pizza boxes....drawing the bolt layout based on 4crawlers write-up..
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
That's all for now. I'm starving.
Belive it or not I have a 19mm socket (YAY!) but no breaker bar (BOOOO!)....ut anyway was able to set at 0...I assume TDC.....had to do it twice to get the cam to show it's little nubs (see, I do pay attention)
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
But now I've stopped, for 2 reasons.....I can't figure out what to do with the distributor and should I pop that 19mm bolt off 1st and if so I nedto get me a breaker bar and #2 I have air-conditioning (not really, the belt broke a ew years ago and i never got it fixed...who needs it when you have this many windows??
Anyway, if anybody has a clue what bolts are NECESSARY to remove to get this cover off, let me know.
Here's a pic.....
[IMG][/IMG]
Thank goodness for pizza boxes....drawing the bolt layout based on 4crawlers write-up..
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
That's all for now. I'm starving.
#28
Registered User
eewa!!!
Well you have one heck of a mess here!!! First off thanks for the mention, I may not be able to keep up to the other 2 (Bleeder and Olharley) but I do try.
Ok so we get on with it.
I'd pull the head...just gotta do it, I know you don't wanna but there is too much gunk in there not to. I would get all the parts from Engnbldr and stay away from ebay on this stuff. Ted is good I like Ted and so do many others.
engnbldr parts list: HG kit, head bolts, timing chain kit (get the one with the oil pump, it should be ok but your in there so $50.00 just do it). If you want might jump up to the 268 while your in there.
When mine went it was leaking out the exhaust port so I did not have the coffee mix as you did. If I would of I would have done the oil pump and timing cover as well.
You should really drop the oil pan and clean all the goop out of there as well. Don't want to leave that mess sit in there.
All this can be done without pulling the motor although the pan maybe a bit tough.
As for the bolt pattern and markings for the cover. Put the bolts in your pizza box in the right spot (that's how I remembered) all the other I had in labeled cups: Upper intake, lower intake, exhaust, etc... remove the intake in 2 pieces it's easier and don't forget about the bolt under the stat!!! There is also the hiden one under the distributor gear.
For me this was my biggest project...in years. I did a head in an 80 Bronco (300 6) in 93 or 94. But I do all of my own maintenance. I think by taking your time you will do fine. If you want I can post/send you pictures of what I had to do.
Do yourself the favor and pull the head. Believe me I understand about how tight $ is right now. I really think you'll end up with bigger problems if you don't.
Now get on with it!!!
Ok so we get on with it.
I'd pull the head...just gotta do it, I know you don't wanna but there is too much gunk in there not to. I would get all the parts from Engnbldr and stay away from ebay on this stuff. Ted is good I like Ted and so do many others.
engnbldr parts list: HG kit, head bolts, timing chain kit (get the one with the oil pump, it should be ok but your in there so $50.00 just do it). If you want might jump up to the 268 while your in there.
When mine went it was leaking out the exhaust port so I did not have the coffee mix as you did. If I would of I would have done the oil pump and timing cover as well.
You should really drop the oil pan and clean all the goop out of there as well. Don't want to leave that mess sit in there.
All this can be done without pulling the motor although the pan maybe a bit tough.
As for the bolt pattern and markings for the cover. Put the bolts in your pizza box in the right spot (that's how I remembered) all the other I had in labeled cups: Upper intake, lower intake, exhaust, etc... remove the intake in 2 pieces it's easier and don't forget about the bolt under the stat!!! There is also the hiden one under the distributor gear.
For me this was my biggest project...in years. I did a head in an 80 Bronco (300 6) in 93 or 94. But I do all of my own maintenance. I think by taking your time you will do fine. If you want I can post/send you pictures of what I had to do.
Do yourself the favor and pull the head. Believe me I understand about how tight $ is right now. I really think you'll end up with bigger problems if you don't.
Now get on with it!!!
#29
Registered User
I forgot...if you are about 0 and the mark is up make sure the rotor is pointing at your head when you are standing at the front of the motor. Should be at TDC then. I put a screwdriver in one of the holes and used a breaker bar to get that loose and used a bungie cord to hold the gear up. I also used zip ties on the chain but I did not pull the front off as you are.
Follow the manual when removing the head and the manifolds. Don't want any of them to warp on ya.
Follow the manual when removing the head and the manifolds. Don't want any of them to warp on ya.
#30
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
I'm sure your opinion is going to represent the consensus on this....Pull the head.
Well, it's going to be EPICLY SLOW and steady.
Well, it's going to be EPICLY SLOW and steady.
#31
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
Nothing, i mean nothing is going to happen before Tuesday because I work the next 3 days 12hrs each.. i'm gonna sleep with the FSM under my pillow.
what tools do i need....i have the necessary metric sockets , even a 19mm.
-breaker bar
-brass brush??..i've seen this mentioned.
-torque wrench
-Pink Floyd CD's
-smokes
what tools do i need....i have the necessary metric sockets , even a 19mm.
-breaker bar
-brass brush??..i've seen this mentioned.
-torque wrench
-Pink Floyd CD's
-smokes
#32
Registered User
Nothing, i mean nothing is going to happen before Tuesday because I work the next 3 days 12hrs each.. i'm gonna sleep with the FSM under my pillow.
what tools do i need....i have the necessary metric sockets , even a 19mm.
-breaker bar
-brass brush??..i've seen this mentioned.
-torque wrench
-Pink Floyd CD's
-smokes
what tools do i need....i have the necessary metric sockets , even a 19mm.
-breaker bar
-brass brush??..i've seen this mentioned.
-torque wrench
-Pink Floyd CD's
-smokes
Beer
razor scraper
Metric Allen keys (I think it's a 5mm)
masking tape (need to mark stuff)
Take a deep breath it will be alright.
Watch when you remove the fuel lines, there are brass washers that you do not want to lose. 2 on each I believe.
#33
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
WARP?...I understand loosening and tightening the head and YES I will be following the guides...but now I will re-read about the intakes etc about sequencing the bolts.
or did you just mean warpage from not following torque specs....
did someone say ENGNBLDR had a top end or front end kit....ie:headgasket,TC Cover,chain-guides,oil and water pump?
#34
Registered User
I have been told if loosing the head bolts as well as the intake you should sequence them out in the reverse torque order a little at a time.
They should have kits on both. They have all the parts you need. Email Ted and tell him what you have going on and he'll get something together for you.
They should have kits on both. They have all the parts you need. Email Ted and tell him what you have going on and he'll get something together for you.
#35
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Thread Starter
ok thanks.
i figured you were talking about the removal sequence. i was afraid you meant that these things could warp if not stored correctly.
i figured you were talking about the removal sequence. i was afraid you meant that these things could warp if not stored correctly.