more worried about the crud than the oil. running the bolt in and out is either pushing it down to the bottom or pulling it(the crud) back out. whatever gets impacted in the bottom i will break up with a small drill bit (in my fingers...) and vacuum out.

turned the crank a few times, curious to see the walls, look great , feel perfect....alot less nervous now.

 

Excellent! That has had me worried for a while now...

How about the crank journals and bearing areas?

 

not seen by a human yet........I'm hoping that since the cylinder walls are good , so are they.

going little by little here.......i don't think I needed to write that...hahahaha...but I have yet to read the FSM about the bearing caps ......on my list of things to do before the pan goes back on......if for no other reason but to give me some peace of mind or an estimate of how long it will be before I break something major.

 

i need like an itsy bitsy bottle brush ...or not...for the bolt holes.....i could probably replicate that kind of action myself....just looking to get the gunk out.

 

Ba....



Da......



Bing!

 

I guess I'm going with red on those parts....not the valve cover though.....not sure on that one.

 

serious question here...

what's the torques specs for the bolts on the water pump and oil pump....not shown in the FSM.....I'm going to see if I could identify by bolt type.

 

went out and grabbed the old cover, thought I'd snap some pics...

 

funny thing I notice and did notice also when i was de-skanking the oil pan.....looks like they must have had the timing cover off. there was BLACK FIPG at the front of the oil pan but apparently original GRAY FIPG on the rest of it....probably accounts for why I leaked so much oil.

secondly, there is FIPG from all sides of the timing cover.

again, my only recollection is that my "headgasket was blown" and I really don't remember anything else about it. but now that the clues are coming together.

 

as per the FSM....."a hexagon headed bolt with two protruding lines (as they are on the oil pump) is a CLASS 5T bolt......12mm EQUALS 43 ft/lb torque.

so the oil pump bolts to the cover are 43 ft/lb


WRONG WRONG WRONG

 

water pump

hexagon with 2 marks is a 5T,,,,,,,is a 10mm head equals 24 ft / lbs

WRONG WRONG WRONG

 

No, that's way too much. They'll strip before you get anywhere close. Go by bolt diameter, not the size of its head. IIRC, they are 6mm 5T. 56 inch pounds. That's only about 4.5 ft/lbs, so don't go crazy.

I don't remember how much the oil pump bolts are supposed to get.

 

thanks alot...saved me alot of pain.

i will go back and edit so nobody uses that info

 

Damn 92 toy....I can't wait to see your engine finish...I like the paint job on your parts.....

 

GOOD GOD!! That is Thee cleanest timing cover I have ever seen! I can't wait to see the engine done..

 

Thanks guys...yeah, I can't wait until it's done.

 

morning jerry. How goes the battle?

 

feeling good...have a little shopping to do today...need an inch/lb torque wrench, some paint, some RTV stuff, lube. grease...I will make a list.

feeling good.

going to clean up the piston tops today and re-clean the top of the block and 1 last time for the front of the block and start putting the stuff on.

how goes your CSI stuff? Tell the detective you have a TIP that she may consider quite significant.

 

here's what I start with today...

top of the block all scraped off and started cleaning the tops of the pistons and the front of the block is all cleaned up waiting to receive it's new parts...

 

and yes, I know I'm not at TDC anymore...I turned the crank a little to check the walls and I will continue to do so until I'm happy with the piston tops and all the crap is cleaned up.