92 4Runner auto with only 105k was running perfectly. New starter; battery is good. Shut if off for about 10 seconds and when I went to turn it back on I had no crank/no start.

I would like to mention a few things to try and help with the diagnosis:

1. When turning ignition to “crank position”; if I have the radio on it will go off.

2. I only hear a click noise in the bottom right corner of the dash when turning ignition to crank position

3. Tried releasing the key (letting go so it springs back) after turning to crank position to see if dash lights would shut off (they didn’t)

4. Checked ALT, AM1 & AM2 fuses and wiring; which then feed the ignition switch; all are good. Then I checked internal fuse box which is downstream of ignition switch and all fuses are good. Also checked starter relay; all good.

5. Replaced with a whole brand new starter couple months ago

6. Truck had a kill switch I never knew about (reason why I replaced the starter for nothing) and switch still works because when I engage it I do not even hear the click and all power is dead

7. For the last month or so I’ve noticed I had to jiggle the key when turning the ignition to find a sweet spot; in other words I couldn’t just turn the key I had to wiggle it until the key turned at all. I still have to wiggle it around to try and start it; so I’m not stuck in the off position.

8. All lights work; radio works; check engine light was on for about a month but never noticed any issues and drove/ran fine

9. Tried to jump it to no avail

I’m guessing my ignition switch finally gave up the ghost at a bad time based on reading other threads. Just wanted a second opinion from guys who know these. Only owned it for (3) months and I know it has a lot of life left in it.

Thanks for your help & time

Until then I’m a 4Walker

 

Put one hand on the shifter and hold it forward while you have the key in the start position..

Having to jiggle your key in the lock has nothing to do with the ignition switch, that's lock cylinder or key wear.

 

I second the Neutral Safety Switch. I had the same problem with my 4r. You can jumper your starter to make sure the solenoid is not the issue, if it cranks then I would say most likely the NSS. I ended up bypassing my NSS because I just needed my truck back on the road asap, instead of replacing it like I should've.

 

Thank you for the quick responses; that makes sense that the NSS would be the culprit. I’ll test the solenoid on the starter first just to be sure.

Thanks again!

 

What he said ^^ if you put 12V to the solenoid terminal (jumper from the big battery cable to the little solenoid wire) and it starts you will eliminate a lot of questions and your troubleshooting will head in a totally different direction depending on the outcome of this test.

 

So you recommended a bunch of extra work over "hey bro push your shifter forward and see if it starts", why?

You know that is an adjustable part right, takes like two twists of a wrench to tweak it into a "clean" position, keeps you and other people from oh I dunno running over little old ladies in the parking lot..

Please don't recommend bypassing safety systems, they are all there for a reason.

For about ten twists of your wrench you can remove the nss and clean it also.

 

Good idea to check NSS, then...
Meaning no start3r r3lay. See path of start3r sol3n0id current:


How to fix it here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52422426

 

I recommended that because the wiggle your shifter around trick didn't work for me, but I confirmed power to the NSS and not after.
No I didn't know the NSS was adjustable, that's good to know. I never came across that in any of my research when I had the problem.
And I did not recommend bypassing the NSS. I said that's what I ended up doing because of time constraints, but that I should've fixed it.