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88 3VZE has no power

Old 05-01-2012, 05:12 PM
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88 3VZE has no power

Glad to be a new member and have benefitted from many earlier posts. Thank you all for that. I recently did an engine swap to my 88runner. I swapped a 3VZE with another 88 3VZE. The guy who did my swap buttoned it all up and engine has no power. Idles great, but will barely move its own weight. I received the following email from him:

Still have not got the 4runner running right. The timing belt was off so I thought that would be it. I checked the exhaust to see if it was plugged and its ok. Replaced the TPS and adjusted
it,replaced the mass air flow sensor and changed the ECM. It starts and idles fine but has no power. It will rev up with no load but feels sluggish. the check engine light is off and flashes no codes. If I jumper the diagnostic connector to set the timing it dose not change the timing. I think Mechanically the engine is fine, it dose not miss, spit, sputter or backfire. Its just really sluggish.
If you can find any more information it would help.

I have read many earlier posts on this similar problem, but have had no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Jeeph8R
Old 05-01-2012, 06:52 PM
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If you jumper the diag conn. and saw no change, it means the TPS is bad. The timing should not be set at 10 deg. It should be higher......forgot how much.
Have someone on this board check timing with out the jumper and see where it's at.
Old 05-01-2012, 07:24 PM
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What you are describing COULD be:

1. TPS bad or mis-adjusted (or break in the wiring harness to the TPS).
2. Low fuel pressure (pump and/or filter). Should be about 45 psi.
3. Bad or clogged injector(s)
4. Bad distributor
5. Bad VAFM
6. Vacuum leak somewhere in the MILES of vacuum hose
7. Bad wire to knock sensor (except you have no code, which you would have if the knock sensor were inoperative)
Old 05-01-2012, 07:35 PM
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Thanks anthony1 and TNRabbit. Great help. I will have my mechanic start there.
Old 05-01-2012, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeeph8R
Thanks anthony1 and TNRabbit. Great help. I will have my mechanic start there.
Check the FSM in my signature if the mech doesn't have one....
Old 05-01-2012, 07:42 PM
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Is he sure exhaust is not restricted?

Have him/her hook a Vacuum Gauge to the intake manifold with engine running monitor vacuum. Normal Idle Engine Vacuum for most engines is about 18-22hg.

If upon opening the throttle with the engine running and the vacuum drops over 10hg+ and nearly to zero then the exhaust is restricted.

Knock sensor would be the next culprit as it is extremely common on these engines for the Sensor itself and the wiring harness for the sensor to be damaged.

-Over heating fuel-pump due to material/debris restrictions.

Last edited by Kiroshu; 05-01-2012 at 07:44 PM.
Old 05-01-2012, 07:49 PM
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HUGE help all of you, thanks. I will pass your thoughts on. Nothing like Toyota Folks.
Old 05-22-2012, 06:21 AM
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I know it has been a while since I updated you all and want to thank you all again as your ideas about checking the harness paid off. The injector wires were shorted together inside the wire harness so it was running on 3 injectors. You folks have been fantastic.

Can't thank you enough,
Jeeph8R
Old 05-22-2012, 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TNRabbit
7. Bad wire to knock sensor (except you have no code, which you would have if the knock sensor were inoperative)

Not entirely true... An open in the ks circuit will not trip the cel till the engine has a sustained engine speed greater than 1700 rpm, I think the engine has to run at or over 1700 rpm for a minimum of 5 seconds before the cel is tripped... Turned out to NOT be the problem, but maybe down the road, when someone reads this thread, it will help

Originally Posted by Jeeph8R
I know it has been a while since I updated you all and want to thank you all again as your ideas about checking the harness paid off. The injector wires were shorted together inside the wire harness so it was running on 3 injectors. You folks have been fantastic.

Can't thank you enough,
Jeeph8R
Good deal!! Makes me want to check ALL the wires in my harness, as the knock sensor wire was brittle, and needed to be replaced all the way to the ecm 3 years ago..... I'm suspecting these brittle old wires are causing a lot of problems for people...
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