The only + you will do is from the battery to the relay not the stater.

 

Got it - thanks! I assume I can justkeepo the existing spade connector on the starter and cut/connect the upper engine bay end to the relay right? That way I can leave the OEM connector on the starter and don't have to mess with getting in to the actual starter area down below.

 

You don't have to cut no factory wires or connectors, the only thing you're gonna do is, add one male spade connector and one female connector to the relay, then you'll disconnect the stater solenoid female connector and go from there.

 

 

 

Fat black wire female connector goes to stater solenoid male connector.
Skinny black wire male connector goes to female connector you disconnected from stater solenoid.
Red fused wire + battery to relay.
White wire ground.

 

Got it. Surprising that all the parts m(including 2 packs of 12 gauge wire, 30 amp relay, relay adapter, 30amp in line fuse, heat shrink, etc) from Napa cost $65. It's worth it if it fixes it though!

Stay tuned.

 

Charles4x4's,
Cancel your order for ignition switch. The fact that the C.O.R. clicks when you crank means IG switch is good.

Absence of starter relay on automatics, and wrong wiring of starter relay from the factory are proven faults. Fix them, because no matter what else you do, the fault will still be there. The reason problem is intermittent is because smooth starter solenoid operation, strong battery, un-corroded / un-pitted IG switch and starter relay contacts mask the problem.

That black module with black, pink and white wire looks strange. Could be unique to the auto.
Correct, Charles4x4, you do not have a starter relay like the manuals have.


One RAD Showed:
This is how to rewire a truck with a starter relay that was wired wrong IN THE FACTORY. Costs $11 and 30 minutes to fix. Easier than Hotshot (ask Griswald).


Exactly.
Make kit exactly as shown.
Use at least 12AWG wire.
Connect exactly where i say to connect the pins....
VROOOM!

 

$65.00? That's kind of expensive.

 

Yes, $65 is expensive. try Amazon Relay. Find the "Bosch" one now Tyco in Germany or somewhere other than the communist bully of Asia.
You only need a few feet of wire, but yeah, nice to color-code.
Here's JPL's as built and installed:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...l#post52370752

 

Thanks RAD. I haven’t opened ignition switch, so that will help offset cost.

Stuff from Napa is usually a little more, but it’s close to the house. Pic below of what I bought.

 

Interim update:

 

Solved! Thanks guys. This has been a multiple week, multiple $100 plaguing problem. Worked like a charm!

Attaching a pic of the final product along with one of the ‘87 which I haven’t shown yet on the forum. Only one project left till the partial restoration is complete - checking out the fuel sender as gauge only works in middle 50% of fuel level. Dropping the tank tonight!

 

Nice truck!! And i also have the same problem with the fuel sender, i just keep track of miles driven and that's it.

 

yeah, that’s what I’ve been doing so far. My theory is that the float sticks since the gauge works in the kiddle
ofmits cycle. But who knows - only way will be to drop it and find out.

 

There is info about it somewhere, the solution to the problem is to replace the fuel sender inside the fuel tank, for me it's a $163.00 replacement part i'll do it sometime down the road.

 

Awesome!
Yes, clean looking 4Runner!

 

Mine is a Turbo with the digital dash, so many of the standard parts done comply with the Turbo dash (different resistance or something). I’ll either just Live with it or see if I can solve it if dropping the fuel tank isn’t too bad.

 

Yeah, that kind of sucks, but you have a unicorn and that comes with some extra problems that are hard to fix, maybe an experienced electrician could rebuilt the copper part that breaks on the fuel sender but who knows.

 

Maybe you can do something about it, and since you want to drop the fuel tank do some cleaning on the fuel sending unit. If it works that's great, if it doesn't at least you tried and there is nothing to loose it's a learning process. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...repair-252091/