Thanks - sounds easy enough.

 

http://web.archive.org/web/201408160...37parkneut.pdf
The pinout appears to be pretty standard across many transmissions. (at least those in the '93 FSM). Your transmission will be listed on the door pillar.

 

Update:
1) I had a place test the battery and it’s 100% good
2) I tried uninstalling the Park Neutral safety switch, butt after removing two nuts, a bolt, and cotter pin to the shifter, it won’t come off. Maybe it isn’t supposed to come off? See pic below. In the interim, I just cleaned it in place the best I could.
3) I tried to test the Park Neutral safety switch with a MM and Test light, but there isn’t a connector near it, just hard wired into the unit (which per the above I cannot seem to uninstall), so no tests yet
4) I purchased a new ignition switch ($47) - the electrical part, not the key part - but haven’t installed it yet as I was hoping either be battery or PN switch would fix it first so I could save some $.

Any ideas on #2 or 3 above?

If none of these work, I’ll have to start opening up the engine compartment fuse box or circuit relay RAD mentioned above (need to read more there since mine is an automatic).

 

I was going thru the same problem you are having now with your truck checking battery, NSS, ignition switch etc. the solution to my click no start problem was to add a relay to my stater and that was it, starts every time now. RAD has a right up on how to do it.

 

Thanks. I'm guessing that may be where I end up. Do you actually have to flip a switch when you start it? Or does the relay fix everything on its own?

I think RAD posted a link to his fix above that I am planning to read after I put in the new ignition switch.

Glad to know I'm not the only one! And I'm learning a ton - which is half of the fun.

 

I just added a stater relay like RAD did, and my starting problems went away, i haven't had any problems for a year now. Link is on post #4 easy to do.

 

You don't flip no switch.

 

Thanks.

 

This is the one i did very easy to do. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...rank-22re.html

 

Does RAD ever show a picture of the actual 30amp Relay mounted? I see the 4th pic showing how it should work, but didn't actually see a pic of the relay in there.

Edit: Your second link has a pic that shows the relay - thanks again.

 

Apologies if this is a dumb question. In RAD's pic below, is the white "connector" looking thing an existing 30-amp relay? If so, and if I have one of these, do I need to buy a second 30-amp relay?

Shown Here:

And here:



If not, I assume I can just do what is shown here and not put in a separate 30-amp relay right?

 

Here it shows how to wire relay post #855, the only thing left to do is to bolt it down on the fender, very easy to do.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52368225

 

Here is how mine looks now (haven’t had time to put a MM on it yet to see if it was wired incorrectly):

Looks different than the one RAD showed...

 

Thanks. Posting in case someone wants to see in this tread in the future:

 

Need to test it, but before why does mine look so different than the others shown?

Mine:


One RAD Showed:

 

The radiator looking thing is your ''injector resistor solenoid'' i think that's how is called i would not touch that. What RAD is pointing in that pic. is his factory stater relay his truck is a 5 speed, we have NSS because we have auto trans.

 

Thanks - wasn't going to touch the Injector Resistor Solenoid thing.

I assume this means RAD's method of splicing into the Starter Relay will not work for automatics? If so, I assume I should follow the one you sent above instead (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/119611-final-fix-intermittent-no-crank-22re.html)

Agreed?

 

It's the same thing, just buy a 30 amp. relay like the one that is wired by RAD in the pic. above and connect it to your starter is very simple.

 

Thanks. On RAD's, if I'm reading it correctly, you don't actually connect anything to the +12v starter connection, just the Solenoid spade terminal from the starter. I think the second one connects direct to the + starter connection (which is a pain to get off on mine).

Sorry if I'm making this harder than it should be. I think I am going to simply replicate this:

 

Correct, i meant to say stater solenoid connector.