Fuel Tank Sender Unit repair
#1
Fuel Tank Sender Unit repair
Hello guys. Since pulling the tank during redoing my 81, I found the need to repair my fuel tank sender. When I took it out, it was cruddy with varnish and the float would not move. I wanted to make sure I could get it to work, as they are none around in the aftermarket that I could find.
So carefully removed the float arm from the clip and removed the cover. The cover has a little bent tab on the bottom with 2 sliding tabs on the side. Just took a pair of small needle nose pliers to straighten the tab, and slid the cover off. Cleaned the innards as much a possible with carb cleaner and brass brush.
Checked continuity from the top of the wire coil to the bottom, for broken wire,,none. Good, so far. Then read resistance from the top terminal to the wiper, none. So, going back to the old days, I thought this is no different than filing/cleaning distributor points. So, what the heck. Found some 400 grit crocus cloth and wiped under the wiper a few times. Got a reading. Yeeha. To my Dremel with small wire brush and cleaned the winding of crud. I also put a tiny amount more tension on the wiper arm. Took readings at full and empty positions, and they read within specs.
Shot the pivot arm with some Deep Creep, reinstalled the cover, read the resistance again, and all is ready to install.
Hope this help others in the same situation.
Before
During
After
So carefully removed the float arm from the clip and removed the cover. The cover has a little bent tab on the bottom with 2 sliding tabs on the side. Just took a pair of small needle nose pliers to straighten the tab, and slid the cover off. Cleaned the innards as much a possible with carb cleaner and brass brush.
Checked continuity from the top of the wire coil to the bottom, for broken wire,,none. Good, so far. Then read resistance from the top terminal to the wiper, none. So, going back to the old days, I thought this is no different than filing/cleaning distributor points. So, what the heck. Found some 400 grit crocus cloth and wiped under the wiper a few times. Got a reading. Yeeha. To my Dremel with small wire brush and cleaned the winding of crud. I also put a tiny amount more tension on the wiper arm. Took readings at full and empty positions, and they read within specs.
Shot the pivot arm with some Deep Creep, reinstalled the cover, read the resistance again, and all is ready to install.
Hope this help others in the same situation.
Before
During
After
Last edited by Lons81; 07-23-2017 at 03:00 PM.
#2
My fuel sending unit was seized up on empty. I did the same thing and mine not works nearly perfect. My resistance reading is a bit off since my actual empty reads about a 1/4 tank, but it's better than nothing for sure! Most of the time, the FSU just needs to be cleaned up and tuned in like Lons said. However, I do wish that there was an aftermarket or replacement option out there!
#4
do you by chance know how much the cost is at the dealer?? I imagine that it isn't cheap. I looked at the Toyota parts diagrams and the fuel sending unit isn't even on them or the parts lists so I couldn't even find a part number for it. I figured that it was just another one of those mystery parts that you have to stumble across as at a pick and pull yard.
#5
Registered User
I think it is around $100.00 but I get a discount so I am not sure what the current price is. I buy my parts from Del Toyota in Thorndale, PA (610) 383-6464. Charlie Gantz, the parts manager, has always found me the parts when I needed some.
#7
1981 toyota pickup sending unit
http://photobucket.com/sending-unit see pics here
1981 toyota pickup sat for three years and gas tank rusted. Dropped the tank to clean but when i looked at the sending unit i could not see how wire b (see pics) is connected to the unit.
I cannot find any info on its construction and would appreciate any help you can give
raymond
1981 toyota pickup sat for three years and gas tank rusted. Dropped the tank to clean but when i looked at the sending unit i could not see how wire b (see pics) is connected to the unit.
I cannot find any info on its construction and would appreciate any help you can give
raymond
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#8
Registered User
B wire is ground and goes on a tab on the sending unit. If the tab is no longer there install a ring wiring connector and install it on one of the mounting bolts. Be sure everything is clean and that the ring connector touches bare metal.
#9
broken tab
http://photobucket.com/sending-unit see pics here
It was a broken tab.I will install the ring connector.
Your reply was really appreciated as I am new to auto repair and I was about ready to jump into a cup of gasolina and end it all.
I cleaned the unit and included a new pic of the broken tab. Left click on the pic and you will see what appears to be two broken wires.
Any idea what they are.
It was a broken tab.I will install the ring connector.
Your reply was really appreciated as I am new to auto repair and I was about ready to jump into a cup of gasolina and end it all.
I cleaned the unit and included a new pic of the broken tab. Left click on the pic and you will see what appears to be two broken wires.
Any idea what they are.
#10
Registered User
I can not really tell by the photograph what the items are that you are referring to. You should only have 2 wires to the sending unit-1 to ground and 1 to the sender. You should check the sending units operation and calibration while you have it out. Use an ohmmeter to check the readings-Full (Arm all the way up) /3 ohms, 1/2 (arm centered) / 32.5 ohms and Empty (arm all the way down)/ 100 ohms. If you do not get these reading replace the unit (Still available from Toyota).
#11
In need of one
I know this is an old thread but I really need to get ahold of one of these fuel senders shown. I have a 79 20r long-bed. The universal one installed seized and was pretty cruddy to begin with. Anyone know the parts number for this sender? Or one compatable? Thanks.
#12
I don't recall the part number, but I got EXTREMELY lucky and found a new factory original on eBay after searching for over a year. It cost me dearly too - if I remember correctly he got me for $180.. I do however have a working used original sending unit if you're interested. I was going to use it until of found the NOS one on eBay.
#14
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
You would need to make sure it was comparable with the gauge.
then is the same size. so the float would read the same as yours
It is possible to get a aftermarket gauge and sending if you really need a fuel gauge.
I really worried about the fuel pump bracket then the sensing unit
then is the same size. so the float would read the same as yours
It is possible to get a aftermarket gauge and sending if you really need a fuel gauge.
I really worried about the fuel pump bracket then the sensing unit
#17
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: West Texas
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I was having an issue with my gauge not working recently so I figured I'd just buy a new one. Turns out that they're very hard to find NOS. I followed this thread exactly as described and cleaned up my fuel sending unit with a small brass wire brush. I checked resistance and it was pretty close to what the FSM says. Now my fuel gauge is working again.
Thank you very much to Lons81, you saved the day. I may have pinched a fuel line while putting my fuel tank back on because now the truck will buck at speeds above 35, like it's not getting enough fuel. But I'll save that for another day, now it's time to go watch the new Star Wars movie.
I think many people here could fix their fuel sending unit by just cleaning it.
Thank you very much to Lons81, you saved the day. I may have pinched a fuel line while putting my fuel tank back on because now the truck will buck at speeds above 35, like it's not getting enough fuel. But I'll save that for another day, now it's time to go watch the new Star Wars movie.
I think many people here could fix their fuel sending unit by just cleaning it.
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