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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

$77.00 Paint job... PartII

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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 09:30 AM
  #41  
TORTIS's Avatar
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From: shreveport, La
Originally Posted by Djlarroc
Well come on up. I need some help actually haha. Hey, so do our paint jobs look pretty similar? I swear my paint sometimes looks orange. I wanted more of a red, but I'll just have to get used to it.

Oh! and you guys are right about the grit. I used 800 last night to start the final wetsand and I was pretty much scrubbing the paint. Then I dropped to 600 and it wasn't that much easier. The only thing else I had was 220 and that was too rough. 320 and the next step up is about right. Damn this paint is tough!!!
i wanted more red as well, but you get used to it. there are way to many people in denver for my taste. montrose is were i want to move to. and yes this is tough paint. i have hit mine a few times and it did not chip.
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 02:22 PM
  #42  
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From: WA ,monroe
Originally Posted by Djlarroc
Lol...sorry I can see how that came accross...NO WETSAND W/220. I knew it was way too rough, and I didn't have 320, so I had to work the shoulder & elbow w/600. It's the final wetsand before the 3rd & final coat and I was planning on wetsanding the 3rd coat w/2000 grit, then buffing. As tough as this paint is though, I might have to use 1500.
you can buff 1000 if you want.
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #43  
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From: Denver, CO
Ok guys, well hope you're not getting bored, but here are some more pics of the spray job tonight. Looks much better, but I guess it should've haha. The color changed again. Weird, but I like it better. It came out nice and even, but there are a lot of runs. 20 mins to spray vs. 4 hrs to roll though, I think I'll take the spray. Now, I have to wetsand those runs out and there are a lot of them. I have 2k grit, & 1k grit. Or should I go buy 1500? And does anyone know how it should come out w/a wetsand & buff? I'm so ready to put it all back together and just drive it. It's been like 15 days. I miss it.

Pics:








Run:


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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 11:39 AM
  #44  
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From: shreveport, La
you have to love the over spray. gotta match it does look at lot redder in the pics, not as orange/red like mine. maybe my thrid coat will be more of a red. looks great. don't forget the pics of the mountains.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 11:42 AM
  #45  
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From: WA ,monroe
looks good,but one thing... your should of taken the door handles and locks and the top off because with that much paint on it you will get the pain to bridge and when you go to unmask it its a nightmare make sure you cut around it with a razor.what i do when wet sanding is go 1000grit to 1500 then if need and harder paints and clears i will use 2500 and a foam pad with light compound. on those runs here is a tip... take a razor run one side of it on some 1000 then shave the run down then go over that with 1000 and so on until flat.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 07:47 PM
  #46  
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The razor blade trick will save you alot of time!
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 08:04 PM
  #47  
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CJM
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From: Central NJ
I gotta give you credit for all your work dude, but you need painting lessons.

In my freetime I worked alongside my boss and learned how to paint cars in about a 4 hours. Its all about LIGHT coats and many of them. Lighter the coat the better the chance it dries faster (for next coat), the less runs and stuff b/c less paint and the less problems.

I painted a 1969 camaro fire engine red for a friend of his and the guy thought my boss did it, it was so good. All in how you spray (always overspray no matter what) and light coats.

But I think for a project it turned out very good, certainly better than maco or a cheap body shop could do. When I finally build me a truck I am just gonna spray mine using a cheapo HD sprayer setup and some olive drab. Aint gotta be perfect b/c the trail will murder it.
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Old Oct 7, 2007 | 04:56 AM
  #48  
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From: shreveport, La
he does get a star for the work he put in on it. looks better without the rust. i'll never forget my first spray job, let just leave it at that(runs everywhere). good job Djlarroc. now let see some pics outside in the sun.
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 12:13 AM
  #49  
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From: Eastern Washington
so how did you guys get rid of the old stickers and glue that toyota likes to put on hoods, doors etc. On my 87 I blasted them off w/ a pressure washer and still had glue residue....by the time I sold the old rig there was dirt stuck to the glue.
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 03:05 AM
  #50  
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From: shreveport, La
i used a big rubber eraser you put on the drill, and then used acetone for the residue. bought it at the local auto body store.
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Old Oct 9, 2007 | 06:47 AM
  #51  
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For a cheap paint job, it isn't too expensive to scuff down the whole body, sand down rough edges on paint chips, etc. Then just spray it with a paint gun hooked up to an air compressor. Painted my old blazer right before I sold it for about $70 and it looked brand new.
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Old Oct 11, 2007 | 08:32 AM
  #52  
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From: Bismarck, ND
what color did you use was it suppose to be fire red, i kinda like the orange tint to it
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