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$77.00 Paint job... PartII
Well after seeing tortis' thread about the "$50.00 paint job" I thought what the hell, I'll join the club. My truck needed body work and paint BAD. I am now taking a break while my headache goes away. I was at it for like 2.5 hrs painting the truck's 1st coat. Here are some pics.
Beginning cancer repair: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...trepair009.jpg Body work: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...trepair001.jpg New front fender: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...trepair005.jpg Ready to prep: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob003.jpg Wetsand w/400 grit: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob006.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob007.jpg Washed truck, then wiped it down with denatured alcohol: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob013.jpg Prep-Tape: I'm not that great at taking stuff apart, so I taped: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob018.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob020.jpg Painted my wipers since they are off: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob024.jpg Roll on materials, plus foam brushes not in pic. The rubberized stuff is for the wheel wells: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob031.jpg Roll on 1st coat: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob040.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob046.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob048.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob043.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob053.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob047.jpg I saw those millions of bubbles all the roll on'ers have talked about. I went over them with a foam brush as well and got em. It leaves a semi-nasty brush mark, but in 10-15 mins, the self-leveling paint goes to work. One thing I recommend that I learned from the 1st go on the top, is go really light on the sides of the top and truck. It runs like crazy and fixing those runs is a PITA. Better to use a light layer of paint and roll it like 5-6 times. I put a bit of pressure on the roller almost squeezing the paint out and got no runs on the other side of the top & the truck. I diluted the paint with regular mineral spirits, not the low/non odor stuff, similar to 2% milk. More pics to come.... |
What kind of paint is that?
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looks GREAT.
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more pics!! looks great!
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Originally Posted by 4JOGGER
(Post 50627985)
What kind of paint is that?
FWIW: you dont have to thin it out, but it can help depending on the job. Nice job btw. |
I think I have decided what my summer 08 project is :D
Anyone know what the interlux brightside largo blue looks like? |
leave you alone for the weekend and look what you did. looks good. any problems? what do you think of the color?
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i bet it wanted to run after you thinned it. how long did it take to dry?
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i bet it wanted to run after you thinned it. how long did it take to dry? i see you left the door handles on.
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Originally Posted by tortis
(Post 50628017)
leave you alone for the weekend and look what you did. looks good. any problems? what do you think of the color?
Originally Posted by tortis
(Post 50628022)
i bet it wanted to run after you thinned it. how long did it take to dry? i see you left the door handles on.
Anyways, about the color...I like it also. At first you're like Dayum, but then you like it. Plus I saw this bada$$ lifted '05 or so Taco with the same bright red paint and I really liked it. The paint running is still what worries me. I had quite a few on the tailgate and it bubbled up real bad like on your truck. I got them off, but have more runs than what I was thinking. I diluted by pouring mineral spirits in the paint can, so I might have to pour some from the other can to thicken it up a tad. I have read various threads and they all say thinning it a bit is better than not. I still agree. I might have thinned it just a bit more, but it went on really well and it dried fast. In like an hour. After 1 coat I still have 1/3 of a qt left. Now, I'm going to wetsand tomorrow after work and maybe try to paint again Tues. I'm still contemplating putting the top on and wetsanding or still doing them separate? Leaning more towards putting top on 1st though... Here are some more pics now that I'm done w/the 1st coat. It looks a little better in the pics only because you can't see all the blotches where the paint didn't cover it all, but again it's the 1st coat and every thread I've seen says that's normal for the 1st coat. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob054.jpg http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob055.jpg Curves on built in flares are pretty run prone: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob056.jpg You can see some blotch, but this paint covers well: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob057.jpg Here's one of those runs: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob058.jpg Gotta be careful with lips on tailgate, RUN CITY!: http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob060.jpg As I was finishing, I noticed the paint has a lot of little specks. Not sure if it's just dust that began to accumulate with the floor drying. It took me about 4 hours to do all the painting. http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...aintjob062.jpg |
totally changes the look, and your body man did a good job from what i can tell.
go around the edges of the tape with razor to keep from tearing up your new fancy roller j:hillbill:b. what a difference a little paint makes. |
Well I wetsanded my truck yesterday to make it nice and smooth. I used 1000 grit, removed some runs & in some spots got down to the old paint/metal :( . Anyways, I will be painting again today. The paint is all scuffed. I was thinking of doing this last coat, then wetsanding again. What grit should I use now? and does buffing the paint get rid of those scuff marks from the wetsanding?
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i'd start going up in grit, like say 1500-2000 for your last two coats. and cjm's right, most people from what i've read didn't bother thinning the brightside.
if anyone cares the website is www.yachtpaint.com, there's a dealer locator on there and the dealers have color chips in a booklet you can take home. |
I would read on the can for the proper grit paper, if its like automotive paint you don't want to go to fine a grit as you want the next coat to adhere to the last coat.for final buffing i use 1500 and 2000 grits.
highway |
how well and fast does this paint dry. i would like to paint mine the same way in my garage this winter, but the only problem is my garage gets damn cold in the winter so im worried about the paint drying well between coats.
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looks really good, and to be honest, i wouldnt worry about a run here and there, or a little dust in the paint, $77 cant expect it to look out of the shop, and that is a damn good job for $77, best part is 1-2 years if your run it hard enough and scratch the paint up, just do it again!
nice job |
I will be doing this same thing soon since I have a rust-free bed to install!
Rob |
Has anyone tried putting a clear on after wet sanding...there are alot of cheap clears out there that can be put on with a wal-mart paint gun.
Just a thought, it would make buffing alot easier, and give some good UV protection. |
Thanks guys. I did half of the top without thinning the paint and the other half thinned out about 10%. Went home for lunch today and noticed the straight out of can side has roller lines. The other side is even. I'll probably go over it again today, but my opinion is thinner is better.
I'm going to wetsand this next coat with 2000 grit. I just want to make it smoove. I don't know about using clear. This paint is pretty shiny, and I've read it defeats the purpose of cheap roll on because to touch up, it's more work. This paint dries in like an hour at 60-65 degrees. |
Djlarroc, here is the data sheet for the interlux brightside and it says Sand between coats using 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Like i said above becareful using to fine a paper between coats and it may not stick well to the earlier coat...... did the 1st coat cover the sandscratchs from the 400 grit when you wetsanded ? you can even use a 3m gray scuff pad .
highway PRODUCT DESCRIPTION A ready-mixed one part linear polyurethane topside finish that has the ease of use of an enamel with the high gloss of a two part polyurethane. Superior self-leveling properties that yield that "sprayed on" look when brush applied in thin coats. * High gloss and superb color retention * Excellent abrasion resistance and durability Brightside contains Teflon? which makes it easier to clean and better able to resist staining, chemicals & dirt. Teflon? also increases the abrasion resistance of Brightside. PRODUCT INFORMATION Colour Y4100-Largo Blue, Y4152-Yellow, Y4190-Kingston Gray, Y4205-Seattle Gray, Y4207-Bristol Beige, Y4208-Hatteras Off-White, Y4217-Grand Banks Beige, Y4218-Hatteras Off-White 1990, Y4233-Dusk Gray, Y4237-Sundown Buff, Y4241-Sapphire Blue, Y4247-Sea Green, Y4248-Fire Red, Y4250-Steel Gray, Y4253-Ocean Blue, Y4258-Black, Y4259-Blue-Glo White, Y4316-Dark Blue, Y4351-Light Blue, Y4353-Medium Blue, Y4359-White, Y4360-Matterhorn White A198, Y4381-Off-White, Y4391-Rustic Red, Y4990-Flag Blue Finish High Gloss Specific Gravity 1.187 Volume Solids 45% Typical Shelf Life 2 yrs VOC (As Supplied) 420 g/lt Unit Size 1 US Quart 1 US Gallon (Some colors only) DRYING/OVERCOATING INFORMATION Drying 50?F 73?F 95?F -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Touch Dry [ISO] 3hrs 2hrs 1hrs Overcoating Substrate Temperature 50?F 73?F 95?F Overcoated By Min Max Min Max Min Max Min Max -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Brightside 16hrs - 12hrs - 8hrs - Note:Brightside must be sanded between coats. APPLICATION AND USE Preparation BARE FIBERGLASS: In Good Condition Begin by scrubbing well using soap and water and a stiff brush. Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry. Wipe a small area with a clean rag that has been wetted with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. While the surface is still wet, wipe with a clean, dry rag. Continue this process until the entire surface has been cleaned. Sand with 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. In Poor Condition Clean as above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Apply Brightside Primer. BARE WOOD: Sand surface, wipe clean. Apply Brightside Primer. Sand surface, wipe clean. BARE METAL: Sandblast or grind, remove sanding residue. Immediately apply Viny-Lux Primewash 353/354 thinned 25% with Viny-Lux Solvent 355. Allow to dry for 1-24 hours. Apply one coat of Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414. CLEAR EPOXY: Clean as for Bare Fiberglass above. Sand with 80 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. Apply one coat of Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414. PREVIOUSLY PAINTED SURFACES: The surface must be clean and dry. Sand with 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue. Method Apply 2-3 coats of Brightside following the proper dry times. Sand between coats using 220-320 grade (grit) paper. Remove sanding residue with a rag dampened with Brushing Liquid 333. Brightside may be applied by roller and brush using the roll and tip method. Hints Thinner Brush - Brushing Liquid 333. Spray - Special Thinner 216. Thinning Thin if necessary with Brushing Liquid 333 to improve brushing characteristics. Cleaner Bare Fiberglass - Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. Epoxy - Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. Ventilation and Humidity Control It is best to paint on warm, dry mornings. Cold weather retards the drying and humidity can spoil the gloss. Airless Spray Pressure: 170 bar/2500 psi. Tip Size: 0.33-0.41 mm/13-16 thou. Conventional Spray Pressure Pot: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi (gun pressure); 8-10 psi (pot pressure). Tip Size: 0.89-1.4 mm/35-50 thou. Siphon Cup: Pressure: 3.44-4.47 bar/50-65 psi - gun pressure. Tip Size: 1.5-1.8 mm/60-70 thou. Other Spray pressures listed are recommendations only. The applicator may use any settings which yield the best results for the individual spraying technique and current weather conditions. Brightside is best applied in thin coats. Some Important Points Do not apply heavy coats as this will affect dry through. Failure to follow proper dry times carefully will cause improper drying, wrinkling and loss of adhesion. Avoid painting in direct sunlight. Product temperature should be minimum 10?C/50?F and maximum 29?C/85?F. Ambient temperature should be minimum 10?C/50?F and maximum 35?C/95?F. Substrate temperature should be minimum 10?C/50?F and maximum 29?C/85?F. Compatibility/Substrates Surface must be dry and clean, and free from grease, detaching paint etc. Be sure to use Epoxy Barrier-Kote 404/414 over clear epoxy to prevent blush from affecting drying and adhesion of Brightside. Number of Coats 2 minimum Coverage (Theoretical) - 550 (ft?/Gal) by brush, 440 (ft?/Gal) by spray Recommended DFT 1.2 mils dry Application Methods Brush, Roller, Airless Spray, Conventional Spray - Pressure Pot or Siphon Cup TRANSPORTATION,STORAGE AND SAFETY INFORMATION Storage TRANSPORTATION: Brightside should be kept in securely closed containers during transport and storage. STORAGE: Exposure to air and extremes of temperature should be avoided. For the full shelf life of Brightside to be realised ensure that between use the container is firmly closed and the temperature is between 5?C/40?F and 35?C/95?F. Keep out of direct sunlight. Safety DISPOSAL: Do not discard tins or pour paint into water courses, use the facilities provided. It is best to allow paints to harden before disposal. Remainders of Brightside cannot be disposed of through the municipal waste route or dumped without permit. Disposal of remainders must be arranged for in consultation with the authorities. GENERAL: Read the label safety section for Health and Safety Information, also available from our Technical Help Line. IMPORTANT NOTES The performance of any marine paint or coating depends on many factors outside the control of International Paint Inc., including surface preparation, proper application, and environmental conditions. Therefore, International Paint Inc. cannot guarantee this product's suitability for your particular purpose or application. IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE AND/OR MERCHANTABILITY ARE EXCEEDED. International Paint Inc. SHALL NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES. By purchase of this product, the buyer agrees that the sole exclusive remedy, if any, is limited to the refund of the purchase price or replacement of the product at International Paint Inc. option. and International are registered trademarks of Akzo Nobel. ? Teflon is the registered trademark of Du Pont. |
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