I have a 1993 pick up with a 3vze I can start it with starting fluid but then it will stall. I’ve owned it for two years and I have never got to drive it any help would be appreciated. Ive thrown ungodly amounts of parts at it such as tps, knock sensor, new injectors, cold start injector, afm, csi timing switch, and cor. I have ran multiple simple test and always come up stumped... I can turn the key on a fuel pump comes on automatically with out a jumping it and it also stays on if I unplug the core I’m at a wall and don’t know where to go from here someone please help!!

 

Sorry, I don't understand: if you unplug the core, or is there an extra "e" on that?
So fuel pump works, or you just hear it run? But are you getting any fuel out of the supply line? If not, is it getting to fuel filter?

 

Yes sorry for the mis spelling. I can unplug the circuit open relay and I can still hear the fuel pump run. I can pull the line off of the cold start injector a fuel sprays from line.. im not understanding how the fuel pump is stayin on constantly if I don’t have it jumped and the relay is unplugged

 

You changed about every part except the two I'd first suspect.
fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator

 

I did change the fuel pressure regulator and the problem continued.. if I’m gettin fuel to the cold start injector could the pump still be bad??

 

Yes, your wiring is messed up. Here's what I know about the COR-VAF circuit and the fuel pump: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/

"changing the fuel pressure regulator" is not the same as checking the fuel pressure.

 

Don't forget, it's not just pressure that matters. VOLUME is just as important. You can have great, perfect, fuel pressure, but still have restricted volume, or flow rate. Old, partly clogged fuel filter can do that easily. So can a dirty screen on the fuel pump. Both will give good pressure readings, but have a low flow rate.

You can check the volume at the FPR. Pull the return line, and put a clear hose of some sort on it, and put it in a graduated container. Jumper the fuel pump, and turn the key on for one minute, timed carefully. Turn off the key, and pull the jumper out after the minute test period. I am pretty sure you should have gotten .5 qts. I might well be wrong on that, though. My memory keeps getting worse as I get older. I think my HD is getting close to full

Don't forget to put the return line back on the FPR!! You can get into a VERY dangerous situation if you don't, and it sprays fuel all over the place when you go to start it. One tiny spark from something, or enough heat, and WHOOSH!! You now have a former truck.


Good luck!
Pat☺

 

I appreciate everyone’s reply’s I am awaiting a valve for the fuel rail to where I can test the fuel pressure but I have took a volt ohm meter and double checked my tps and my afm while I was at it I decided to just see what I saw by hooking it up in the diagnostic port because my fuel pump is staying on with the key and if I stick my meter to the fp slot with no jumper in it or anything I’m gettin twelve volts there constantly with the key on what could be causing this

 

If you get battery (12v) on FP with key-on (that will run the fuel pump), either your wiring is non-OEM, or you have a stuck FC switch on the VAF.

 

If I remove the efi relay in the fuse box I have power to two of the post and no power to the diagnostic box when I drop the efi fuse back in it’s spot the fuel pump comes on and I have 12 volts to the B+ and the fp terminals in the diagnostic box.. there are no seeable spots as to where the wiring has been tampered with and I pulled the top cover off of my afm to see if the cantact was touching to where the fuel pump would come on and it isn’t touching and I also ran the test with a meter on the afm and it checks out fine..

 

The whole point of the circuit opening relay is to make sure the fuel pump shuts off when the VAF stops sensing sucked air. Someone has re-wired your truck so that the COR is not longer in circuit for anything, and the fuel pump (still connected to the FP line to the diagnostic port) is getting full-time power whenever the key is "on."

The (now non-functional) COR has nothing to do with your stalling. It's just a safety hazard.