really now?...hmm..that's interesting....so list it on Ebay locally with my Vin# and it'll do everything for me?

 

yeah it will give a history report in the listing.

 

Ooohh wel better jump on this because after that im sure a ton of people are only gonna use that for the history info..lol good stuff

 

hi camo31....can you send me a pic of the back of the motor....also how did you reach the upper bolts behind the motor? I am also pulling my motor out of my 95 4runner. thank you

 

why do you want pics of the back of the motor? i can get em no problem, just wondering what you're wanting to see so i can help you better!

and i got mine with about 2ft of extensions with a u-joint on the end lol, worked like a charm..had all the tranny bolts out in like..less than 2 mins LOL

the motor is basically stripped, i'm gonna try to finish it up tonight so my dad can take it to Tulsa tomorrow!!! pray for me!! lmfao

 

oohhh I want so see how many bolts are in the top session of the transmission case.... I got all the bolts on the bottom but cant see how many more on top and it looks kinda hard because of the crosspipe behind the heads.

 

did you drop the x member?

That's pretty much how you do all Toyota 4WDs...

Drop the x member and reach up from underneath with long extensions.

Some other tips you can consider are:

Instead of pulling the upper intake, I remove the EGR and just flip the upper intake over, and rest it o the fender with a rag under it. There will be a few lines that pull off... I had 3... And that sure beats puling more vac lines off, or all of them!

Then, once you get to the crossover pipes, forget pulling it piece by piece...

Either remove it with the engine, or remove the head bolts then the studs that hold the exhaust manni's on. Then lift everything up and one at a time, pull a head to the center of the truck enough to free it from the studs.

In other words, leave the crossover pipe in one piece...

 

why in the hell would you drop the crossmember!?!?!?!?

dude, just get under the truck, and start looking..theres only 2 tranny bolts on the top of the bellhousing..and both are easy to get to!!!

if you want pics it'll have to be after 5pm (i'm in a college class until then)

and the upper intake part sounds pretty damn smart...i sure as hell wish i would have done that

don't even worry about the crossover pipe until you have the motor completely out of the truck LOL!

 

Are all the bolts same sizes or what? I am going to buy a few extension then. How long was your? Just to have a idea. Thank you and any time you can put those pics I would so thanksfull.

 

ehhh don't worry about it, it is really easy to put back together if you take your time and every time you connect a line double check with the routing diagram and you should get it right the first time.

 

well all of mine are labeled anyway LOL!!! so i SHOULDN'T have a hard time...but idk lol

and the $900 quote i got was for a shortblock overhaul and a valve job

 

You don't really drop the x member... You lower the tranny and x member all at once.

I forget sometimes I might not be talking to somebody as experienced as me... And I abbreviate...

As it stands, the bolts are pointed straight at the firewall,,, and thanks to the brilliant engineers at Toyota, about 2" from it.

By lowering the x member and tranny together, you change the angle of attack needed to remove them.

If you really want to make it easy, remove the 4 12mm transfer case mount bolts 1st, and all you have to do is lower it then remove the x member out of your way as you reach up and take the 17s off...

 

depending on the year... I've seen as many as a few... and as many, as in 30.

My T was ok... My 4Runner was a NIGHTMARE!

 

The big bolts are 17mm and the rest I'm sure are 14. A 3 foot should do ya...


AT or MT? If AT I remove my bolts from the starter hole. I have put a small boxed end wrench in the hole, on the bolt and turned my crank, via a large wrench (ok, torque wrench) put pressure against it and turned the crank to break them loose.

Your results may vary...

But what you need to know is that one of the torque converter bolts will be different. One will have a slight cone at the head of it. It's to center the torque converter with the flex plate, and you use it 1st when reinstalling the converter to the flexplate.

 

Just in case anyone needs a diagram for their vac hoses.

 

this may help others...
my SST for removing the cam sprokets and to retorque the bolts back, it also works on the torqueing the crank sproket bolt back to 181

 

look up this posting for diagrams of hoses, "3vze vacuum hose diagram for reference". I was unable to post pics as they had been previously posted by me

 

my bolts were VERY easy to get to???? i didn't have to unbolt the x-member or anything..lol

i like diagrams =) except for wiring diagrams =/

 

hey thank you for the chain idea, I did that this morning and worked great....I couldnt get to the bolts so I took the heads off and I am taking off the motor tomorrow morning....I am glad I found yotatech....thank you guys

 

your welcome ....it really works, and nothing to build just 10ft chain get links 3/8" or less and the load rating on mine was I think 450lbs and grade 8.8 bolts that will fit through the link and long enough to get a nut on the threads...wrap the chain around the frame on either side and it is long enough to reach to both cams without removing it from the frame until your done.Then reuse it in the same way to re-torque the bolts when you get to it.I also used the chain to re-torque the cam bolt worked like a charm