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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

3.0 rebuild begins

Old 09-08-2018, 08:00 AM
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coopster I did find the injector parts. Got them from autonationtoyotasouthaustin.com. They had the better price than anyone else.
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:33 PM
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bored .50 over and crosshatched honed

have to do some scuffin before paint.

This is new to me. installed on # 6.

Bottom end all torqued

Crankshaft installed and torqued.

I used this idea to help in making the 90 deg turn for final torque. helps from going too far,

Pistons and rods installed
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Old 09-15-2018, 07:29 PM
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I had a long and productive day. Got the bottom end together. Seems to me the older way of totally submerge vatting worked way better than the dishwasher machine the machine shop used on my parts.
Chemicals maybe milder. Had to do a little bit of scrubbing before painting. One of the freeze plugs was different in that it had a disk adhered to it. I am going to research it later. Ran taps in all the holes, only a few were gunked up with silicone ( water pump issue).
Tomorrow I am going to put on the oil pump, pick up tube, shield and pan. Then roll it over and put on the heads. Then I will be getting somewhere. I have been ordering a lot of parts as of late. All the little bits really add up. I am hoping to get another 200,000 plus out of it.
I used an idea I might have seen somewhere for marking the bolts for torquing. Make a vertical mark on your socket to match the mark on the bolt. Use the mark on the socket to make the final 90 degree turn. Takes a little bit of the guess work out of it.. More tomorrow.
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Old 09-15-2018, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by amamike91 View Post
I had a long and productive day. Got the bottom end together. Seems to me the older way of totally submerge vatting worked way better than the dishwasher machine the machine shop used on my parts.
Chemicals maybe milder. Had to do a little bit of scrubbing before painting. One of the freeze plugs was different in that it had a disk adhered to it. I am going to research it later. Ran taps in all the holes, only a few were gunked up with silicone ( water pump issue).
Tomorrow I am going to put on the oil pump, pick up tube, shield and pan. Then roll it over and put on the heads. Then I will be getting somewhere. I have been ordering a lot of parts as of late. All the little bits really add up. I am hoping to get another 200,000 plus out of it.
I used an idea I might have seen somewhere for marking the bolts for torquing. Make a vertical mark on your socket to match the mark on the bolt. Use the mark on the socket to make the final 90 degree turn. Takes a little bit of the guess work out of it.. More tomorrow.
The disk on that plug is a high temperature tell-tale that will melt if the engine is overheated. It is to protect the machine shop against unwarranted come-backs if their block, or head has been abused.
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Old 09-15-2018, 08:03 PM
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Thanks millball, Make sense after i zoomed in and was able to make it out what it said.
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Old 09-16-2018, 03:43 PM
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I did not get as much done today. Had too many distractions. Managed to get the oil pump installed. Started to put on the oil pan on then realized the factory did not use gaskets, just sealant. The gasket kit came with cork oil pan and shield gaskets. To use these I would have to get longer bolts, not an option as I don't like cork gaskets.So going to get more sealant and go metal to metal like the factory did. Should have caught that one. LOL

I am planning on getting rid of the crossover pipe. Going to come off the exhaust manifold run down beside the transmission, crossing under to wye back into the main pipe before the oxy sensor.
Plenty more to do before I get that far.
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Old 09-16-2018, 04:12 PM
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Cork gaskets tend to not work well on oil pans designed for sealant alone, so you made a good choice.

The engine is coming along nicely!

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Old 09-16-2018, 04:57 PM
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Thanks, Just don't want to have to replace it in the truck!! One time and done is what I strive for.
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Old 09-24-2018, 06:49 PM
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I like this gasket for the water pump no need for sealant.

waiting on head gaskets.

motor mounts and ac bracket.
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Old 09-24-2018, 07:13 PM
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I was getting ready to put the heads on, when looking at the head gaskets I noticed they were scratched up in a few places. Having past issues with head gaskets blowing I opted to order a set of Felpro head gaskets. I used them once before years ago. The water pump seized up on my 76 camaro after about 20,000 miles on a rebuild, it got really hot but did not blow the head gaskets out. The engine is still running strong with 90,000 miles on it now. The Felpro head gaskets came in and they look great so I started putting the left head on and torqued. I was installing the camshaft when torquing the bolts I had one strip out on 8 lbs of torque. I tried a longer bolt... nope. Looks like Helicoil time. I will be checking the other camshaft bolts on the right head for sure. So maybe by the time the weekend gets here I'll be ready to get the rest of the engine together.
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Old 09-24-2018, 09:48 PM
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The two front ones on the passenger side and two rear ones on the drivers side are the worst for stripping out. The stock bolts in my opinion are just a tad to short and just do not engage enough thread. In your case with the motor out of the truck Helicoiling should be easy. I had all four of those buggers strip on me but after tapping with a blind tap I had enough thread left to stud them.


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Old 09-25-2018, 09:50 AM
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It looks like you've had success with the cotter pins/aviation wire before on those then. I wasn't aware those back off? Or was that because you had that one strip out on you?

Not criticizing, just trying to learn.

Anamike, motor looking good. Since I'm cluttering your post, I once put that JB weld stuff where the 'coolant' had corroded off and pitted the surface where the gasket goes. Flat filed it down and it held well. Not that I've built a bunch of motors or anything, just sayin'.
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Old 09-25-2018, 03:41 PM
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Coopster, I remember back when i worked in an auto parts /machine shop out of high school the machinist used JB Weld with tapered plugs to fix cracked heads. They never had any come back the 5 years I worked there.
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Old 09-29-2018, 04:34 PM
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right front camshaft cap had to have a longer bolts to torque.

had to use a longer bolt to torque left rear camshaft cap.

rear of engine.

had to repair this valve with JB Weld.

Timing belt on.
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Old 09-29-2018, 05:00 PM
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I finally got the heads on and torqued.Thanks (Andy A) I tried the longer bolts first, kept me from having to helicoil them. The camshaft caps on the left rear and right front need longer bolts to torque. I used 40 mm bolts which is roughly 5 to 8 mm longer than original. Had to buy a new knock sensor wire as mine was brittle and showing wire. The timing belt is on, just need to finish measuring the valve clearance. I never thot this project would take this long but I was not in a hurry to begin with. Once this part is done I am wanting to tackle the front end, then redo the interior. The fun continues.
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Old 09-30-2018, 07:03 PM
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I finished checking the valve clearance and they are all too tight. Number one is leaking thru the intake valve when brought up to TDC. Getting new cams and valves made up for some of the issues. I will be looking for shims now. Anyone know of where the deals are at?
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Old 09-30-2018, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by amamike91 View Post
I finished checking the valve clearance and they are all too tight. Number one is leaking thru the intake valve when brought up to TDC. Getting new cams and valves made up for some of the issues. I will be looking for shims now. Anyone know of where the deals are at?
If you had checked those valve clearances before you put the heads on; and you had use of a valve spring compressor and a good caliper, the lash might have been adjusted by grinding the valve stems.

No different shims needed.
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:28 PM
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Millball truer words never spoken. The machine shop told me they had done that for me. When i went to torque the camshafts back in and found the stripped bolts my inner me said I had better do some checking. Glad I did. So a word to the wise, no matter how nice and knowledgeable the machine shop owner is take the time to double check everything. I just look at it as i needed more practice with the valve clearance procedures. LOL.
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Old 10-01-2018, 01:45 PM
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If you have a surface grinder, you can grind the shims (they are flat; some shims on some vehicles are crowned). You weren't thinking of grinding the valve stems on a bolted-to-the-bench grinder, were you?

Most of us don't have the right equipment to do precision grinding. I got shims at https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rchString=shim $9 each isn't a bad price, but if you only want 2-3 the shipping will run that up.

I have not tried https://www.fastservsupply.com/searc...=valve%20shims ; their price is a little lower.

Sometimes shims will show up on eBay; often in sets of four of the same size. What good does that do you? Actually, more than you think. The adjustment range (0.18-0.28) covers (usually) three different shims (0.05 steps). So you don't need to get exactly the perfect size; you can use one off by 0.05 or 0.10 and you'll be in the range. More importantly, if you measure all 12 valve clearances and shims, you should find that you can shuffle them around to get most of them in the range. A tiny bit more shuffling and you might get by with a set of 3-4 shims all the same thickness.
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:07 PM
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Scope, I am just going to get the shims i need. The heads are on and I don't want to take them off unless I have no other choice. I saw the grinder and shims the other night. That would be a last resort for me. The shims that are on it are all wore down about the same just a few thousands difference between them. All but 3 shims are out of tolerance. There are several new valves and 2 new camshafts so I want it to be right as not to have issues down the road. I have looked at lakelandtoyota and a few others. I'll look at the fastservsupply. Thanks for the leads.
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