When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ready too stuff it in. Man, Thot this was going to be easier. The transfer case is what was giving me trouble, trying to clear the front diff and top of tunnel at the same time. Engine and trans are bolted down. Took me roughly 2 hrs by myself. Now to connect up the rest of the stuff!!
Yes sir coopster, I did opt for a new starter. I let the air out of my front tires only to have put air back in so I could get my engine hoist under the lower a frames. The come along kinda helped to get over the core support. It pushes the front of the engine into the lift when up high. Once I got past them i could drop um down again. Was able to get 3 inches from full to flat. Getting the transfer case past the front diff i took and pulled everything over to the right front fender and tilted the leveler as far as it would go. Once I got past that the rest just slid into place. I did go crazy with the accessories, had to pull off the A/C and bracket to clear the lift. OOPS. LOL . Other than that it went fairly good. I took my time , thought out the moves AND I did not break Anything. Now I get to connect up all those wires and vacuum lines.
Very interesting thread. I appreciate the time you took to document everything along the way. Looking forward to the rest and of course a video of first start up!
I am going to remove the crankshaft on my 3VZE engine and I am having trouble finding the crankshaft removal and installation instructions. Where do I find a FSM or is there a place online I can find this information?
I am going to remove the crankshaft on my 3VZE engine and I am having trouble finding the crankshaft removal and installation instructions. Where do I find a FSM or is there a place online I can find this information?
four95runner try here under the stick notes. Threads in Forum: 86-95 Trucks & 4Runner. Sticky 93 Toyota Pickup FSM - Mobile (12). Click on the link and look under engine and you should find what you need.
Well im back. Got everything ready for my first start and no fuel pump. Finally got the tank down and surprise ( not really kinda suspected ). The fuel pump is trashed, screen was in pieces. The fuel sender was rusted in place. Mostly because there was not but a few gallons of gas and 5 yrs of sitting. The inside of the tank has very little rust so im going to just clean it up. I have been searching for a new sending unit only to find the style I have has been discontinued. I can get a new sender from Toyota but it won't have the low fuel sensor. So I am going try and repair the one I have. If it don't work then I'll get the one from Toyota. Think I saw a thread on the sender repair on here some where. If anyone knows of a source for fuel sending units plz send them my way and i'll check them out.
old87yota , The sender is not working. It is not frozen in place but has lots of drag. Moving is a plus. So I am going to clean it up then connect it up and see if it moves the gauge. Had to order the rubber insulator as the new fuel pump did not come with it.
got it opened up and cleaned out still not working next move is to remove the resister board.
I have been thinking about getting another board to replace this one. I know, I just want to try and keep the low level sensor as it is working. I'm just set in my ways. Need to find a unit with the correct ohms (3 to 110 +/- 7 ohms ).
I'm sure you're using your ohmmeter. Do you just have no continuity? Have you determined if the wire in the "resistor board" is broken? (a common problem at this age)
I would be really surprised if you could get the "resistor board" as a separate part, but since you've gone this far, consider repairing the one you have! You can buy nichrome wire in various gauges. For instance, 32ga is 13.3 ohms/foot
Figure out how many inches of wire will fit, and get the appropriate gauge (getting the resistance right is more important than getting the exact same number of turns). Don't forget that the turns cannot touch each other. I'm guessing the original wire is secured to a rivet/eyelet, but you can probably successfully solder it with a steady hand.
Well my fuel sender was working when it was out of the tank but when I got it all back together,zip, nada. Back to drawing board... later down the road. Finally I got my engine started and it is running pretty good. Smoked a lot for about 10 min burning oils off the manifolds. Oil pressure , water temp ,electrical all good. Started off with idle at 1000 RPM then came down to 650 after it warmed up. Had some leaks show up trans cool line at radiator was a little loose. But the one i'm not happy about is a oil leak coming from from between the engine and trans. So time to break out the mirror and light and see where it is at. Either way the trans and engine will have to be split to get at it. Going to set timing tomorrow. Tried to download a video of it running.... need help with that if y'all can. Thanks.
... a oil leak coming from from between the engine and trans. So time to break out the mirror and light and see where it is at. Either way the trans and engine will have to be split to get at it. ....
Gravity is not your friend. With gravity and wind, every leak eventually ends up at the back/bottom of the engine. (Indeed, the most common one I hear of is a leak at the back of the 3VZE valve covers). Your mirror is essential, but I'd add a can of spray engine degreaser and a garden hose. Get the engine clean enough that you could eat from it, then look for your leak.
I found my oil leak and it is at the rear valve cover passenger side. Sigh of relief I don't have to pull the engine back out. While looking for my leak I found the heater control valve had started to drip. Going to repair both leaks this weekend then get after breaking in the engine. My fuel gauge is somewhat working. There are 2 places it grounds out and drops to "E". The low fuel sensor is working so if that comes on its time to filler up. Going to be looking for a new sender, or send what I have off to a place in New York as a last resort if I don't find anything. 150 bucks for them to refurbish plus shipping and handling.
I missed removing the silicone on the edge of the bearing cap. Cleaned and put a little bit of silicone in the corners and buttoned it all back up. oil leak fixed. Now on to engine break in. Then on to other repairs and new threads.
I put 50 miles in my first oil change to clean out what trash might be running thru the system. I am using Joe Gibbs break in oil 5W30 and Toyota filter. I am going to run to 500 miles on the 2nd change then put in Mobile one.
cut the spin on end of the filter off filter is fairly clean. looks like very small amounts of machining material. filter cut apart
While driving around the first 50 miles I was romping on it a little bit when the engine started missing. Took and revved up the engine a few times and it cleared up. I hit the FSM and followed the leads to the intake system. Un-metered air between the AFM and the throttle body can cause missing and rough running per FSM. I found a tear in the intake tube at the the throttle body. I took some gorilla glue to it and it has not missed or run rough since. Ordered a new tube from Toyota. The more I drive it the better it runs (100 miles now). As long as it sat not running, I expect to have more issues show up.
10-28-2018, 05:20 PM
1 2). Click on the link and look under engine and you should find what you need.
