ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Sweet, sounds like a great plan, good buy, too!

Yes, let us know..... excited for ya to solve this and rule out any more dramatic things, ya know? Always hated adjusting these, they're SO TOUCHY, .....like my ex(wont say which one, just to be safe! lol)

PS> You might know this, but just in case;

Don't forget to set the stop plate adjustment nut, first, ya know? Especially when you clean the Throttle body up, it can change distances of 'stop' because the 'GUNK' is no longer a factor. Mine changed, and even that .007" can make a difference in the reading you get. I set mine first and it changed my readings FO SHO!lol... ( with the nut backed off, turn all the way in then a quarter turn further, then tighten lock nut .) This sets your throttle plate flap gap, which has to be done before messing with the TPS adjustments. Just wait til you get it on the bench, then set that(8mm nut I believe)

rocker10684

Oh ya this TPS thing should make a difference, i just hope there isn't any more big problems....I need to be able to drive this thing $100 bucks a week to drive my diesel isn't fun anymore lol

rocker10684

Ya no problem I've been reading the ram about that stuff, what about the fast idle screw (i think that's what its called) how do you adjust that?

rocker10684

Oh ya I also found another guy with a complete efi intake with throttle body and tps.....he only wants $20 for the whole thing, thinkin maybe I should buy it just to have? I know its a good deal

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Fast idle screw? You mean that one on top of the throttle body? The Idle/Air adjustment one? Think the FSM says go all the way in and then 3 turns out, start it and see where it idles. Then go back in or out til 750rpms. If it has to come WAY out, there's usually something going on in there, mechanically/top end(Not always, but I KNOW that's a fact some times, ....happened to me, 1. with a bad cam and 2. with the orig. valves and guides being reused.).

If you're talking about the other adjustment nut and screw on there, on the top/back side? I'm not sure exactly. I think one is just to limit how far it opens and the other is to keep it ALWAYS partially open/keep it from slamming shut(which the dashpot also helps with)

Could you show me a pic of what screw you mean? lol. I have a few screws loose,....can't help but get lost in screw discussions! lol.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Oh, ...yeah,...... 20$???????????????? YES, I would take it, good deal!

rocker10684

Ya the dashpot one is what I'm thinking of...

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I think the 4crawler write up on that says just what I said, ..."turn all the way in, then quarter turn further, then lock nut down". There are two that can be adjusted(one for dashpot and one for throttle plate)>>>, aren't there? lol. I wish I could go out and look, but really busy with a party right now.

rocker10684

Ok the tps is in.....thought I had it adjusted right but now I'm getting an error code 41, the only queston I have about the adjustment is for the 2 resistance values for the ec2 and idl pins what does infinity look like on an ohm meter? May be a stupid question but I'm super frustrated right now and have never heard of infinite resistance on an ohm meter....please help

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Infinite resistance is an open. Meaning no conductivity.

rocker10684

also the <2.3k resistance spec.....thats less than 2.3k ohms right? cuz if i remember right that reading was around 60 ohms... i dont know..also when i took the throttle body off to get the TPS off and clean everything, there is tons of black soot/carbon crap inside the plenum, that cant be good, but have no i dea what it could be from.

rocker10684

Cool, thanks for the clarification skypilot, that's what I thought about there being no conductivity and that's what I set it at.....but still not sure that the other parts are adjusted right

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

It takes only a hair movement, either way, in the pertinent spots of the TPS adjustment, to change from "close" to "Infinite" .... That TPS?>>> it's touchy, lol. But it's a good thing to rule out, AND you got some killer deals during all this..... so don't get too discouraged, ya know? Also, the meter, as I was mentioning, ...has to be read properly in relation to the required specs, ya know? If you are on 20k setting on the meter, and you get ".62" then you're reading '620'. If you get ".062 " then it's " 62 ", right?(NO, REALLY, someone tell me I'm way off if I am, please? .... i don't wanna misrepresent the 'roger', lol) The <2.3K reading it pretty much that, under 2.3k(using a .57MM feeler wedged in the right spot on the underside of the Throttle body/between stop and screw....AFTER the throttle plate adjustment screw has been pre-set/adjusted)..... I went to half way from the 'falling off the map' and 2.3K..... wound up getting it to 1.2K and was happy with that.

I believe Roger says on those 4crawler cheap tricks pages, .... "If you get the FIRST ADJUSTMENT RIGHT, ....the rest are usually right on". Remember, you will know right off that it's at least doing SOMETHING by removing the connector while idling, ...it should always idle up when you disconnect it, causing the EFI to go back into a type of open loop/pre-set throttle position value.

You are going by the 4crawler page, right? Not AT ALL being a smart ass or know it all, Rocker, .... heck, I'll probably be slandered and mocked for days due to some of my posts, hahaha.... But really, it took me a couple times, reading through the "How to use a Multi-meter/Ohm Meter" section, ..... before I realized I was doing it wrong. I had never really used one, but I actually, the first couple times, thought I was doing it properly, so no wonder I was getting such wonky symptoms, lol.

Anyway, ..... Just make sure the dashpot and throttle stop screw are set properly, feeler gauges are at least close(he even says, "There are no TPS police, so relax" on that one, hahaha)....then take your time and read it over a couple times as you go, ....you'll get it and at least be able to rule it out, ya know? Plus you'll have some sweet deal extra parts!

Far as the plenum being like a pig trough....... YES, that CAN DEFINITELY cause problems... Not so much in the "getting air into the intake chamber" problem arena... But more so, like with mine, cuz ALMOST EVERY vacuum port in the thing was completely plugged up with crap! If that's the case, you can often remove the ports from the plenum, clean em all out, replace with some thread tape and try whatever's next.... But sometimes those being plugged up can cause HAVOC in the EGR system, etc. Many, eventually, take it off, send off the injectors while it's off and being cleaned, then clean the plenum in the high pressure wash method, in combination with some HD cleaners and small bottle brushes, etc., etc., ya know? iamsuperbleeder, pretty sure, took his to the 'pay car wash' and blasted it out there, ya know? Trying to clean out the walls and all that to the point that you'd probably like?>>>Wow, very much a task, and just remember, that crap all winds up in your combustion chamber if you don't get it out. AND, ... Seafoam will not clean all that stuff out.... it's just beyond that. (Some might argue, but all I can say is what I've experienced, and that is; I did 3 cycles through the intake and 2 through the tank...... hardly cleaned any of it out, I still had the vacuum ports and my injectors completely clogged up....I'm sure it did something, judging by the amount of smoke it put off,..but not enough, it was far past that) And that's caused by carbon build up. Back flow of combustion stuff's, unburned fuel that's partially ignited due to valves not fully closing, etc., and it all combines with whatever crap the air intake pulls in as well.

Best wishes on this, keep us posted, Rocker!

rocker10684

Ya, on my Blue Point meter, you just switch it to ohms and the reading will give you whatever it is, whether its ohms or kilo ohms or whatever ya know, so its nothing im doing with my meter i know for sure, ill just have to screw with it some more, and none of my ports on the intake are clogged either, i already checked that part...so we'll see what happens

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ok, good,(the meter and intake) so you have 2 down, whatever to go. That's a start, and trust me, I know how frustrating it is to not just be able to point right to something. You'll get it. You sure about the EGR being clean? There's a couple tests for that, including one using a vacuum pump/holding idle at 2000RPM and then pumping in 10" vacuum, ....it should want to die at that point. I also tested my BVSV and others, including the EGR-Modulator(cleaned out the filter in there, etc.).

Another thing that can cause a lot of 'black gunk' is the PCV and I'm fairly sure the front breather tube as well. They pull into the intake to ventilate the Crank Case/Top end.

Just a thought... I would update with a quick bullet post as to what the issues are, what you've checked, all neat and such... Probably get some new input, ya know? People have told me they just don't like to read back too far to see what the problem is, or if the original problem was solved/and or/ ruled out and you've moved on to another.

I'll be watchin.

rocker10684

Ok, so this 22re is running real rich.....loads up at idle. Heres what ive checked to far in no particular order.
1. TPS is set
2. Timing is set at 5 deg BTDC
3. Ive unplugged the Cold Start injector, and no change(havent tested it for leaks though)
4. Vacuum ports on intake are all clear (lots of soot/carbon in intake)
5. Replaced PCV (all lines are clear too)
6. HAVE NOT CHECKED EGR SYSTEM YET....not sure what that'll cause or how to check it either.
7. HAVE NOT CHECKED COOLANT TEMP SENSOR EITHER

I might be forgetting stuff but heres what i got so far, the truck actually runs great until it idles for a while and starts to load up then it gets a little rough and hurls black and grey smoke when you hit the throttle.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Egr you can pull and plug the holes with a wooden stake or a rag. That will eliminate that. The carbon is probaly EGR related.

Coolant sensor tells the ECU hot or cold for CSI and to run a little rich when cold for a short period then idle down.

I wonder if your fuel pressure is too high. there is a vacuum line to it for a "power up" function also when cold. You could unplug that line and plug it, disabling it. Somehow I think the AFM is telling the ECU its wide open when obvisously it not. Have you tried bypassing the fuel pump and unpluging the AFM?

rocker10684

Can you tell me how to bypass the ATM puhleeze?

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Carefully lift the stainles steel bailing wire holding the connector in place. I use a dental hook.

The is a procedure to bypass the fuel pump with a jumper next to the fuze box. I have forgotten the page number.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classi...mper-94-a.html

Might help

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Far as the Fuel Pressure Regulator, ...it actually limits pressure to the rail, along with the damper, and the only vacuum connected to it is via the VSV(vacuum switching valve) toward the back of the valve cover, on top. 4Crawler has a write up on bypassing that as well.

Personally, I did a vacuum pump test on that as well, which somewhat helped PARTIALLY conclude that it was functioning(the FPR). The only TRUE way to tell if the FPR is doing it's job conclusively is to do a fuel pressure test. If fuel pressure from the pump is, lets say for the heck of it, "38#'s..... The FPR regulates it down to 22# or WHATEVER at an idle. When you step on it, it should allow more fuel pressure through the sensing of vacuum pull through the plenum, where the VSV is also connected. Actually, the VSV is really more so for "Hot Soak" conditions, according to Toyota... but I've never really got an EXACT answer on that, lol. Roger of 4Crawler has deleted it, swears hes not had issue 1 with that deletion since doing so, years ago, if I remember right. I only avoided that because SO MANY other Toyota Guru types told me, "NO, don't do that, it's there for a reason",.....and then they used some jargon that lost me at, "First....." hahaha.

When you pull the vacuum that is PULLING on the FPR..... one test is to look for fuel. That will tell you FOR SURE if that diaphragm in the FPR is toast. Another test is just to bypass the vacuum, plugging off the VSV and FPR and open port that the left over is using..... That will usually cause a noticeable 'idle up' factor, because you've removed the FPR from the picture, so it's no longer limiting fuel pressure at idle. I'll look it up more when I have time, ...but do you have a vacuum pump? Till then, >>>Make sense at all? lol.

The EGR is fairly easily tested with a Vacuum pump as well. If you look, even in the haynes, but for SURE in most any "Mighty Vac Vacuum Pump" instruction booklet, it will tell you how to test the EGR by actually Pumping Vacuum IN TO the EGR where it is supposed to be PULLING from the top.....(pumping in around 10" of vacuum) into that port on the EGR, while holding the idle at 2000RPM.....once you hit 10" or even less, it should cause the motor to noticeably bog out.

That part make sense too? lol. Sorry, I don't have the book in front of me, but I'm fairly certain on those. Just be sure not to overdo the amount of inches of vacuum you pull/pump into it(depending on the test). Too much could damage the diaphragm.