Its a great looking rig and 750 is a great price

 

awsome deal, i paid 1100 for mine and had to rebuild the engine. lovin it.

 

Right on, Photobucket EASY PEASY FTW! lol.

750$ for a pretty clean Runner FTW2! hahaha

Great progress, ...can't wait for you to get it PURRIN! We'll be watching, throw up the questions if you have any, Rocker!

 

OK, so i knew about that stupid timing cover bolt that gets hidden under a puddle of oil, but i forgot about it.......needless to say i need a timing cover now makes me feel like an idiot, but im sure im not the only one whose done it, so are the aftermarket covers ok to use, or are they cheap pieces of crap and i should look for an OEM used one? does anyone have a good used one in the portland area they wanna sell? crank, block and head going to the machine shop today. MORE PICS TO COME SOON

 

Ok heres a few more pictures







I know this last picture looks like a heap of parts, but its actually organized lol

 

Great quick work of things, Rocker! Engnbldr Cover..... using one right now for around 3K on fresh rebuild..... not a drop is leakin..., perfect fit. Are they as good as OEM? Not sure I can say "NO" or "YES", lol..... But at least it will not have been through 6500 Heat/cooling cycles? lol. New at the dealer? OOOOOOOOOOOOOH, EEEEK, ... bet it's not too reasonable? lol.

Kill it, Rocker! lol

 

Thanks for the tip on the timing chain cover, definitely going to pick one of those up, do you know if the gasket kits and bearings sold by those guys are any good?

 

Bearings, ....as in "Crank Main and Rod ''''BEARINGS'''' " ? LOL. Well, I'm not a metallurgist, Rocker, ....and I don't mean that in a smart arse way. Honestly, there is a HUGE misunderstanding as to 'where are these rings/bearings manufactured?', etc. Some larger companies like NPR have their name on them, but they're having "company A" in "CHINA" make them. In all honesty, MANY of the Bearings and MANY OTHER parts are made in China now, regardless of what many might lead people to believe and regardless, EVEN, of what some of them are stamped with. (My Machinist showed me this by even as indepth as a "call to NPR".... They could NOT tell him if they were actually made in Japan or China)... There are other ways to tell what is what, and, Tod and Ted will tell you if you give them a call.(just try to call when you're ready to bite the bullet, but tell him "Not sure if I want your bearings or those bearings, .... can you tell me before I order why I should?"... Why not, Rocker, ...IT'S YOUR MONEY! Worse Tod can say is "NO TIME, sorry, .... But I trust em." Right? lol.

I searched on line and bought Old New Stock of Sankai(OEM) Bearings(bout 3 times the cost.... was it worth it? I'LL FIND OUT! lol) ....and Hastings-USA Rings. NOT because "I KNEW they were all far superior to Rock or whatever 'engnbldr' offers"..... NO WAY, ... .Rather, because it 'made me feel better', ya know? If you knew what I've been through in the last 16 or so months, rocker... You'd understand. I guess you could say, "If something that's never happened is going to happen, it'll happen to Chef" became a common theme! lol.

I think Tod and Ted will tell you that they're fine, and they probably are. What they will also tell you, and I NOW KNOW they're right...... is, "Sometimes, often more important is WHO AND HOW the bearings are being installed!" Also, ..... "Is a reputable crank place inspecting/servicing the crank/doing the block/head?", ....and, ... "Are you following the sequence of bearing/rod cap/ install/check for 'flow' of crank in between each one, then the next one, etc.", and did you "CLEAN AND CLEAN AND RECLEAN" before/when ready to start assembling?........ And they might also tell you, "Yeah, I have grown to dislike that 'brand' or that one"... But they'd have to speak for themselves, ya know?

I don't mean to ramble, honest, ...but I KNOW HOW you feel, wanting to "know that you know that you know" WHERE this and that is from, is it good or the best quality I can get, etc? Etc? etc?..... So my best advice is, unless you get Rings from Hastings-USA, .....WHICH ARE MADE in the USA(doesn't mean they're better, either, than "this" or "that" brand, .... Just what my machinist recommended, lol),.... and on the bearings as well, .... my advice would be to CALL those who know! For instance, ...you call Putney's(22reperformance.com) and I'm pretty sure he'll tell you "KING bearings..... are what he uses".

Just spend a couple hours researching via the few vendors you have heard of now,....and then decide what makes YOU feel better about what's in there. Just be sure, as I said, that the INSTALLER KNOWS WHAT HE'S DOING! Ya know? If that's you, get more and more info on that, as well, if you're just learning. It's amazing, Rocker, how many things I thought I knew but was WAY off on when it was time to purchase/install, etc.

Best wishes, keep kickin arse! lol...

Mark

 

Wow, thanks for taking the time to write all that, seriously, I appreciate all the help, I trust my machinist, he has built tons of motors so I know he knows what works and what doesn't, so I may just end up getting the parts straight from him, but I've got to do a little research on it before I do, and yes it will be me doing the assembly, it will be exactly by the book and I won't be in a hurry to slam things together

 

PS> As an example.... when I read some of the boxes in the machinsts shop from ACL(I guess it's an Australian Company).... The Main Bearings said, "Made in Australia", the Rod Bearings said, "Made in Japan" and the Thrust Washers said, "Made in China". ACL uses specific manufactures in order to keep a profit coming, like everyone else. They make SOME of their own, then have whomever is making the ones they don't make in house put their "STAMP" on them. This is what has happened with NPR as well.

Hastings has it's own reasons for keeping all their business in house in MI(?) can't remember.

I know it's lots of info, but, ...... I just found it interesting and thought I would share.

PS> My first machinst that screwed up my CAM, left in the same guides, re-used ALL the valves, screwed up my timing cover install, cracked the face of my block using too long a 'temporary' bolt, ground my crank OUT OF ROUND, did the bore/hone improperly and caused the rings to never seat within 5K miles..... He is one of the most well known and reputable(pffffffst) Machine Shops in the State of CA. NOT trying to freak you out on your guy..... just saying, "I WISH I knew then what I know now!" lol. The second guy.... shop looked like a bomb went off, he was a loud lil guy who liked to scream in fun on the phone, in person, etc., ... did what I am hoping and feeling so far is a GREAT JOB! When I told him and many others who did my first, orig. motor.....they said, "OHHHHHHhhhh, ... really?" For this very reason, I will NEVER just simply trust 'friends or families' 'WORD' any longer, .... rather, I will ask locally with other mechanics/machinists/builders. Just like Doc's, they don't like to talk crap about even the competition... but EVERY ONE of the guys I asked said, "yeah, we're getting lots of work from stuff they've already done", .....after the fact, of course! lol.

Cool on the "assembling myself" part... But yes, BE SURE each lil portion is done to the tee! You'll be fine if you do, and I admire you doing it yourself, Rocker!

 

Cool, I appreciate it a lot, I'm sure ill have more questions along the way....and I gotta do it myself, ill learn way more by doing it rather than having it done...plus my wife just had a baby and I'm pretty much broke lol

 

OOOH, ok, now that makes a lot of sense! Best wishes, man....and CONGRATZ ON THE NEW FAMILY MEMBER!

 

Thanks, ill keep everyone posted on the progress!

 

So when i put this thing together, what should i use for assembly lube, engine oil and filter, and whats the proper way to break it in with cast rings? Just wanna make sure i do this right, i cant afford to do it again

 

just get some standard engine assembly lube. get a toyota filter and regular oil, no synthetic till 5000 miles. not sure on the vescocity cant remember. post lots of pics.

 

Ya I'm supposed to get all my stuff back from the machine shop this Wednesday so pictures will one soon after that

 

Sta-lube Engine Assembly Lube worked fine for me, many times,...and for the CAM, I went to a performance shop and got some "Crane CAM Lube"..... it's like a red gooey stuff, lol. I don't think you NEED to do that... but I wanted to treat my new 261 to the 'good stuff', hahaha.

10W/40 Castrol GTX will do just fine, but for break in(20 minutes to 30 minutes) just use whatever brand oil is on sale, ya know? Fram Filter is fine IMHO for that as well, you're just going to toss it, lol. Then yes, most seem to feel that Toyota Oil AND FUEL filters are superior to the rest.

Is it a new CAM???? Sorry, really busy lately, .... and no time really to read back.....plus, kinda losing my mind in general? hahaha.

New CAM makes for a MUCH different break in procedure than 're-using my orig. CAM", ya know? if it's a new CAM, Call Tod at Engnbldr and ask him 'REALLY QUICKLY' "what should I do exactly for this type break in?" and explain the parts, what you had done, is the cam new, etc., and he'll run it down for ya in 2 minutes, k? (Better yet, if you could just email his Pops to keep Ted's phone free, ....that's even be better. Ted is good, he'll get back to you QUICK, just post alllllllll the details of what you did/used/parts/, etc., and he'll give ya the 411, k? Go to engnbldr.com and look at the 'contact us' on the bottom, ...pic "ted", cuz Tod is really busy at the shop and can't answer as quickly, ya know?)

Usually it's 1000rpm for 10 seconds, then 2500 rpm for 10 seconds, sometimes varying to 1800 RPMs in between, ...then back and forth for 20 minutes for the cam. MOST rings, not sure on the CAST rings, ...but my Hastings Moly rings are pretty much "DRIVE IT!" lol. They sat within 300 miles, max. I think Cast seat fairly fast compared to chrome, .... anyway, there's a FEW threads on here on that, including one by a guy named, "Trainwreckinseattle" .... Good and very knowledgeable technician/builder. He's been discussing this very thing for a while now. Just look, you'll find it Rocker

 

Listen to the chief!

Cast rings seat fast, just a light wipe with 10-w30 or whatever Diesel engine oil (contains more zinc for older non-roller camshafts) you break in with. If I remember right you have to break them in after the cam by driving from 30mph to 50mph 10 times promptly, not full power but have you foot in the "go" pedal.

http://ramchargercentral.com/technic...tion=printpage

Crane cams is gone; so substitute Crower, or Compitition Cams.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/cam-...nc-110925.html

 

Ya, im using the existing cam, so no break in will be needed there, i drove over to engnbldrs and picked up a new timing cover and he told me to assemble the whole thing with lithium grease and also to pack the oil pump with the lithium grease to prime it, as far as piston installation goes, ive heard to put oil on the rings but no oil in the cylinders, just a couple shot of WD40 in the cylinders, im sure there are alot of different opinions on this, but should i not use WD40?

 

I would not use wd-40, its simply too thin .

A 10w-30 is all I've used. I just wipe it down, lube the ring compressor and carefully send it down.