22re Smoking in my 89 4runner
07-18-2011, 12:16 PM
#62
Yep, CLEAN the holes really well with a lint free rag/towlette(they are out there) with a LIL oil on it.(MAINLY to remove debris, any rust that might have formed/YOU'D BE SURPRISED/ and then partially for the first slide of them into place). YES, coat the rings a lil, but NOT DRIPPING(Because they will ALL pull much of the oil on the walls down with them), then compress and slide em in. First, install all 5 main bearings and bearing caps and check for ease of rotation after installing each bearing. Once you're all good to go on the crank main bearings, thrust washers and main caps(IN THE ORDER THAT IT ORDERS YOU! lol), .... then start on the pistons and do the same thing while installing them, checking after the install of each. I did this with the block on it's side(the piston install), using "Rod End Stud Guides".... lil plastic/rubbery caps that go on the studs tight, then allow you to pull the piston down and into place over the cranks rod journals.(You can use vacuum hoses that fit tight over there)... This also keeps the crank from being gouged by the rod end studs. BE SURE you lube everything properly as you're assembling, every bearing should get a blob! lol. First, go through AT LEAST a series of 3 torquing sessions to the 78# when you do the crank install, and then do the same when getting to the rod's 48# values(?Guessing on both, off the top of my head... obviously you'll MAKE SURE! haha.). Install a rod and cap and then be sure it's rolling freely while rotating.(It'll obviously get a lil more tight, every cap that goes on.... but YOU WOULD KNOW if it's binding.... it will suddenly get MUCH more difficult).
Now..... KILL IT! LOL.
Now..... KILL IT! LOL.
07-25-2011, 07:35 AM
#69
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Well the motor is in, started at 7am yesterday morning and had it fired up at 1pm, the thing runs great, i cant believe it actually, lol, i do however have the Check Engine light on now, it wasnt on before, how do check these old vehicles, all ive messed with is OBD2 stuff? heres a couple pictures:
07-26-2011, 10:13 AM
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ok so i checked the engine codes and i get a code 51 and 53, the 51 is some kind of TPS code and the 53 is a Knock sensor code, one question ive got is, its running pretty rich, especially at idle, but does run smooth, when i was putting the motor together i noticed that the upper half of the intake had a whole lot of carbon buildup on the inside of it....Any idea why????
07-26-2011, 11:15 AM
#72
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thanks i appreciate it, i remember before i tore it down, while it was still running, but just slightly pushing the little door open a bit further on the AFM , the idle came up and it ran even better, so i think i will start there, plus when i put my motor in i didnt have my timing light, so i just rough set the timing, so its probably off a little, ive only driven this rig about 120 miles and started with a full tank and am now down almost to half a tank.....thats horrible fuel consumption, and when its at idle and you take off from a stop light or something, it puts out a healthy cloud of black and blue smoke, but im guessing the blue smoke is just from the rings not fully seated yet? (not a ton of blue smoke, but its there)
07-26-2011, 02:33 PM
#73
I would be careful messing with the AFM, Just my humble opinion. But yes, some do it with no issues, some, well, you get the picture, lol.
Did you clean any of the intake(especially the throttle body) with the TPS still on? They've been known to not like that, lol.
Knock sensor code is usually cuz it's not hooked up. Sure you got that one connected, right next to the fuel filter, big ole nut lookin thing? lol. Single wire? >>> Just checkin. I tore it out one time messing with my oil filter, grrr! lol.
Knock sensor could sometimes mean there's a knock..smooth or not. BUT IT'S NOT LIKELY, not trying to scare ya.
"Black or Blue smoke" is kinda vague... gotta know which is it, really, first. Blue is usually 'TOO MUCH GAS' being consumed. Black is usually oil consumption and white CAN be normal when cold, but if persistent is usually the dreaded HG failure. If it's black just for a lil bit(first 20 minutes, before you flush the oil out the first time) it's often assembly lube, etc. If it's continuing after it's initially broken in for a lil while(a day), then you're probably consuming oil if it's black, or FUEL, ...which would be my guess since you said it's rich.
did you remove the TPS when doing your rebuild?
Sometimes fuel pressure regulators or dampers can go bad(VERY RARE). Usually is if the injectors weren't serviced at time of rebuild and are still 220K plus, etc. They often leak on, when sitting at idle at a light, then when you take off, PLUMES of unburnt fuel hit the sky(blue smoke). Clear the codes and try it again, AFTER adjusting your TPS first, before messing with the AFM, ok? Please? lol.
Did you clean any of the intake(especially the throttle body) with the TPS still on? They've been known to not like that, lol.
Knock sensor code is usually cuz it's not hooked up. Sure you got that one connected, right next to the fuel filter, big ole nut lookin thing? lol. Single wire? >>> Just checkin. I tore it out one time messing with my oil filter, grrr! lol.
Knock sensor could sometimes mean there's a knock..smooth or not. BUT IT'S NOT LIKELY, not trying to scare ya.
"Black or Blue smoke" is kinda vague... gotta know which is it, really, first. Blue is usually 'TOO MUCH GAS' being consumed. Black is usually oil consumption and white CAN be normal when cold, but if persistent is usually the dreaded HG failure. If it's black just for a lil bit(first 20 minutes, before you flush the oil out the first time) it's often assembly lube, etc. If it's continuing after it's initially broken in for a lil while(a day), then you're probably consuming oil if it's black, or FUEL, ...which would be my guess since you said it's rich.
did you remove the TPS when doing your rebuild?
Sometimes fuel pressure regulators or dampers can go bad(VERY RARE). Usually is if the injectors weren't serviced at time of rebuild and are still 220K plus, etc. They often leak on, when sitting at idle at a light, then when you take off, PLUMES of unburnt fuel hit the sky(blue smoke). Clear the codes and try it again, AFTER adjusting your TPS first, before messing with the AFM, ok? Please? lol.
07-26-2011, 03:13 PM
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First of all, and i may be worng, but iva always thought and been told that blue smoke is burning oil and black smoke is running rich, i dont think im wrong, but maybe i am, wount be the first time,lol, anyways i didnt remove the TPS and i did clean alot of carbon off the back side of the throttle body before i reinstalled it.... i havent messed with anything yet, ill check out the TPS whe i get home tonight. I noticed when i hooked up the knock sensor that the wire kinda pushed out of the connector a little so i pushed it back in but maybe its not connected all the way? ill check it out, im sure its not a big deal. As far as the injectors go, maybe theyre leaking, i dont know, the gauge cluster reads 178k on it, so its not over 220k like you said obviously so i dont knwo, ill start with the TPS and setting the timing right and go from there, any other input is greatly appreciated, ive gotta figure this out before i freak out lol.
07-26-2011, 07:11 PM
#75
Yeah, I'm really sorry, Rocker, I got dyslexic on you for the moment there, rryso! lol. Jk.....on the last part, lol.
Yes, .....black is usually fuel and blue or gray is oil....and usually not good news if it's excessive and far into 'fully warm' area. Sometimes the valve seals can give ya some blue, without having any bottom end issue.... but it's more often the bottom end.
Yes, .....black is usually fuel and blue or gray is oil....and usually not good news if it's excessive and far into 'fully warm' area. Sometimes the valve seals can give ya some blue, without having any bottom end issue.... but it's more often the bottom end.
07-27-2011, 07:12 AM
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so i checked the AFM last night and the readings were all within range, i then proceded to check the TPS, firt of all with the truck running, i disconnected the TPS and the truck ran the same as with it connected, didnt seem too good to me, so i checked it with my ohm meter as per the FSM and of the 4 pin configurations you check, 2 didnt register at all on my meter, so im pretty sure thats at least one of my problems, feel free to tell me im wrong if i am 
07-27-2011, 10:07 AM
#79
Well, those are the MOST important pins in the whole diagnosis.... so, yes, you're right, you've got a problem there. As long as you're using the feelers in the right spot on the throttle block plate and screw, as long as you're on 2K on the meter and as long as thing is running the same with it connected or not...that's definitely a problem. COULD be toast, could just need adjusting...obviously, you're gonna try to adjust it first, eh?
Glad you found this, so far, Rocker! At least this is leading you somewhere, right? Hopefully to the primary source of your fuel issues. TPS not responding is A BIG PROBLEM... so I hope that's most of it, if not all, for you, sir!
Glad you found this, so far, Rocker! At least this is leading you somewhere, right? Hopefully to the primary source of your fuel issues. TPS not responding is A BIG PROBLEM... so I hope that's most of it, if not all, for you, sir!
07-27-2011, 01:07 PM
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Well ive got a really nice Blue Point automotive multi meter so i just have to select ohms and it tells me exactly what it is, so i got a used TPS that checks out (tested with my meter) for $30 bucks, maybe mines adjustable, but the fact that i wasnt getting anything out of mine makes me think that its more than an andustment, i may be wrongbut i just decided to get one that i know works so ill pull off and clean out the throttle body before i install it tonight and let everyone know what happens
