So I determined that my vacuum advance was not working at all. I bought a reman distributor because it was cheaper than just the Vacuum Advance by itself. I installed it and I have 2 problems.

1. When installed the distributor is all the way maxed out in the adjustment window to hit 0* on the timing mark (w/o vac advance hooked up and lines plugged).

I had read that it should be in the center of the window for 0*

I have removed and installed 1 tooth forward, and backward. With the distributor installed in either position, I cant even get it to 0*

I have also tried switching it 180* and the truck wont even run, so I am very confident the distributor is installed correctly.


2. If I set the timing to 0* w/o the vac advance hooked up and the vac lines plugged, when I reattach the vac advance it only goes to around 8*

If i set the timing to 12* with the vac advance hooked up, when I disconnect it and plug the lines the timing is at 4-5*

I have checked all the vacuum hoses against the diagrams in the FSM and they are ran correctly.

The truck certainly runs better than when the vac advance was not working at all, but I would like to get it set to where it should be.

as of right now it is set so that @ idle w/vac adv it is at 12*


Any ideas of what to adjust, check, etc. would be greatly appreciated.

 

I had the same issue. i went to a junkie and got another distributor. Put in it and it went to perfect timing. I suspect you rebuilt distributor.

 

The distributor is a remanufactured unit from a parts store.

 

I understand. I mis-typed "you" for "your". I think your timing issue may be in the reman. distributor. I could not get mine to to get below 4-5 degrees BTDC until I changed the distributor.

 

Make sure the vacuum line doesn't have a vacuum leak in it, this includes that stupid steel rail that supplies it. I had an issue similar to this and is easy to miss a leak in the steel rail. Also make sure the lines are hooked up right between front and rear vacuum ports on the distributor. One line doesn't advance the timing as much. Normal operating temp line should be the front most port. The rear port is for cold advance or retard, I forget. This rear line is part time vacuum supplied by a VSV (vacuum switching valve) and is only supplied when the engine is "cold".

 

I will try bypassing the steel lines and see what happens. A vacuum leak still wouldnt explain why its maxed out when set to 0 with the vacuum lines capped though.

 

Are you or are you not able to get it to 0*?

If not, make sure the balancer is actually not broke. Verify that the keyway that holds it onto the crank is aligned with the grove for the timing mark on the pulley. I have seen a few of these shift themselves since they are a two piece design. In order to do this, you have to take off the crank bolt at the very least, if not remove it from the crank.

 

I can get it set to 0, but the adjustment would be maxed out.

I haven't pulled the crank pulley yet to check the balancer. I would be surprised if it had moved, considering how well it runs. I guess thats my next move though.

 

Or as you stated it can be a tooth or two off as well. It can be a PITA at times to get right the first time.