I swapped in a sputtery 22r into a new body. The engine ran reasoably quite in old body (maybe had some caburator issuses) it ideled well. Compression 155, valves in adjustment, timing light says timing id good. I replaced the timing chain tensioner, chain measured out so I left it, guides were good. New plugs, cap, wires, rotor. Stethscope reveals no real slapping or banning noises under valve cover, timing cover or in block. Truck runs up and down the road with good power.

Now engine sounds like a diesel. Sometimes when i shut off the key it runs forever, no kidding, forever.

Any Ideas?

 

hmmm...maybe the igniton switch is just worn out so it doesnt shut off like its supposed to all the time??

 

Mine made a diesel sound when my exaust manifold gasket had a crack. May be too simple, but I'd check anyway.

 

i will try exaust manifold gasket. But this doesn't really explain it's dieseling attitude. The previous owner of the new body says ignition switch always worked fine.

 

Check timing and idle. The idle speed MUST be under 950 RPM's or the mechanical advance weights kick in and give you a false reading. Remember to disconnect and plug the vacuum lines to the distributor when checking timing.

 

If it keeps running when the key is turned off, then the Idle Cut Solenoid isn't working. Did the wiring harness get plugged in right? It's the only item on the carb with two wires going into it, and it should click when 12V is applied to it.

 

The Idle Cut Solenoid? Could this explain its inability to idle (or kick down to idle) until it has run up and down the road?

 

I have not yet checked the timing using a tach. I'm search the group of friends for one now. I have checked the timing with my truck running right next to a perfectly tuned truck to get an audible sense of where 950rpm was. Any tricks?

 

Does it sound like chain slap?

If you over-tightened the bolts on the tensioner it may not be working right...

That, or if you put the wrong bolt in the top of the oil pump housing it can block the tensioner from working.

 

The timing chain and cam gear measured to spec and the stethoscope reveals no slap. I believe i set up the tentioner correctly.I used an old timing cover to map the bolt pattern so the correct bolt sholud be in the oil pump.

 

OK, I gathered up a tach. And checked the idle at 800RPM. It was pretty close, and I left it advanced to the 5 mark because I live at 8000 feet. (?) I put another carb on too. The newer carb completely solved the sputtery, smokey running issues, but I still have this nasty knocking, diesel sound. I think I will investigate the timing chain.

How do you avoid the smilely face crack, under the the head bolt, on the timing cover?

 

I have a 1984 22r and the smog pump makes noise kind of like a diesel. FYI.