1987 4Runner - Restoration and Preservation
#22
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Those badges do look great. I've bought parts from that seller before, he's local to me. Hopefully I'll be meeting up with him soon for an exhaust pipe I need. I can't pull the trigger on those badges just yet, I'm nowhere near restored status, but they do kind of bring everything together on a truck as clean as yours. I did buy those tailgate stoppers you posted. Thanks for that part number. Opened up my tailgate and they were all busted/missing. My "Huh?! How about that!" moment.
Hhhmm, I don't know much about the turbo trucks. The seller said that he had a local sign shop make these badges. Maybe that's something you could look into?
I've never seen the white/gray combo in person, until now. I've seen pictures though. My pickup was white with the blue interior. It didn't look bad. My pickup seats are perfect, but unfortunately, the blue doesn't really match the gray interior of the 4Runner.
#23
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Mine is white and gray also. My previous 84 4runner was white with tan and a tan Kayline top. I liked that combo better.
#24
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I think the gray and blue look pretty good. I've never seen the tan interior in person, but I like that color, so I'm sure it works. The burgundy interior is where I'd have to draw the line!
#27
I have brown but am slowly converting it to black, starting with my door panels. Next may be flooring, then black/grey late-80's Prelude seats that are firmer and put one in a more alert posture, then wrap cracked dash with black vinyl...
#28
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Yeah, burgundy belongs on upholstery in Mafia movies
I have brown but am slowly converting it to black, starting with my door panels. Next may be flooring, then black/grey late-80's Prelude seats that are firmer and put one in a more alert posture, then wrap cracked dash with black vinyl...
I have brown but am slowly converting it to black, starting with my door panels. Next may be flooring, then black/grey late-80's Prelude seats that are firmer and put one in a more alert posture, then wrap cracked dash with black vinyl...
#29
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"Warm" Start Issue
It's cold and wet here today. Other parts of the state are experiencing snow and sleet, but it's a bit too warm for that here. Earlier this morning, I took the 4Runner to drop off the trash and rode into town to get a haircut - probably 20 miles in total. I'm noticing a problem after "warm" starts. When I drive the truck for a while, park it for less than half an hour and crank it back up, sometimes the idle is rough and the engine struggles - almost to the point that it feels like the truck is going to knock off.
I was going to record a video today, but I couldn't replicate the problem. Looking through some of the repair notes that the PO provided, I did notice the following:
"The cold start idle-up valve is inoperative, causing the engine to have difficulty idling when cold. Would need to replace valve. Est. $400"
The oxygen sensor was also replaced during the same visit - with an aftermarket part.
I'll do some searching on my own, but if anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them. If I can capture video of the problem, I'll post that here.
I was going to record a video today, but I couldn't replicate the problem. Looking through some of the repair notes that the PO provided, I did notice the following:
"The cold start idle-up valve is inoperative, causing the engine to have difficulty idling when cold. Would need to replace valve. Est. $400"
The oxygen sensor was also replaced during the same visit - with an aftermarket part.
I'll do some searching on my own, but if anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them. If I can capture video of the problem, I'll post that here.
Last edited by NC87_Runner; 12-08-2017 at 03:46 PM.
#30
Our generation and earlier are sexy without trying.
We have a thread on rough idle somewhere in the the forum. Not familiar with cold start idle-up; I thought there's plainly an "idle-up" valve. Please double-check.
If ECU does not get proper temp feedback it may cause idle issue (i.e., it thinks engine is warm but it's really cold), so I always jokingly say that temp senders need to be cleaned once at least every 30 or so years.
(mine)
If ECU does not get proper temp feedback it may cause idle issue (i.e., it thinks engine is warm but it's really cold), so I always jokingly say that temp senders need to be cleaned once at least every 30 or so years.
(mine)
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-08-2017 at 02:08 PM.
#31
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We have a thread on rough idle somewhere in the the forum. Not familiar with cold start idle-up; I thought there's plainly an "idle-up" valve. Please double-check.
If ECU does not get proper temp feedback it may cause idle issue (i.e., it thinks engine is warm but it's really cold), so I always jokingly say that temp senders need to be cleaned once at least every 30 or so years.
(mine)
If ECU does not get proper temp feedback it may cause idle issue (i.e., it thinks engine is warm but it's really cold), so I always jokingly say that temp senders need to be cleaned once at least every 30 or so years.
(mine)
I followed the link that you posted and I've done some reading. I'll refer back to your post and continue to do some searching of my own. Cleaning definitely wouldn't be a bad idea though.
#33
I have not personally worked on the IACV, but that's what NC87_Runner needs to look at. It may be actuated by a vacuum switching valve. IF so, it's pretty simple to simulate proper cold-idle operation by manually opening the appropriate vacuum hose to atmosphere and blocking off the other. Helps to have an assistant.
The CSI and CSI timer switch only act during cranking (here). However, IF the CSI leaks while parking when there is residual pressure in fuel lines to injectors, that may cause rich condition during restart.
To eliminate doubts on fuel pressure, Wallytoo, I and a few others have installed fuel pressure gage piggybacked on the CSI here
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 12-10-2017 at 08:20 AM.
#34
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It's a real PITA to get to the IACV clean and test it yourself for free.
Old style vs. new style IACV
You can also convert your current intake to the newer style and in turn you get a better more reliable IACV. It can still get clogged and fail but is more readily available for sale online.
https://22reperformance.com/intake-e...trol-valve-iac
It's definitely not a $400 replacement so long as you do the work yourself.
As for cleaning and testing the IACV you currently have
Old style vs. new style IACV
You can also convert your current intake to the newer style and in turn you get a better more reliable IACV. It can still get clogged and fail but is more readily available for sale online.
https://22reperformance.com/intake-e...trol-valve-iac
It's definitely not a $400 replacement so long as you do the work yourself.
As for cleaning and testing the IACV you currently have
Last edited by se7enine; 12-10-2017 at 03:45 PM.
#35
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Excellent information guys! I'll be working 4 straight nights, starting tomorrow, so that doesn't leave me much time to do anything but catch up on sleep. Once my four nights are up I'll begin a seven day break, so I plan to look into this. Thanks again for all of the useful info. After this issue is (hopefully) resolved, I need to investigate why the truck is consuming oil. There don't appear to be any leaks at the front or rear, but I've topped the oil off twice in about a month and a half - two month period.
Please bear with me if I happen to ask questions that seem ridiculous or describe things incorrectly. I'm not mechanically inclined, but I'll do my best. lol
Please bear with me if I happen to ask questions that seem ridiculous or describe things incorrectly. I'm not mechanically inclined, but I'll do my best. lol
#36
Get 4 cans of the green Eastwood rust encapsulator. It’s spray paint with a special wand that allows you to paint the inside of your frame rails. You’ll use 3 and the 4th is an extra. Drill some 1/2 inch holes in the bottom of your frame rails and run a hose up in there to clean out the crud. Dirt collects in there and creates moisture. I used some thin diameter plastic hose tubing attached to a garden hose via a brass step down and ran that inside the frame rails.
Next cover every hole in the frame with painters tape. Peel back the tape, spray inside, put the tape back on. This way none of the paint you are spraying on the inside of the frame escapes. After 3 cans the inside of your frame rails and cross members will be totally covered in rust proof paint. How’s that for preservation ? The frame is the only part you can’t easily replace. Preserve that first.
Next cover every hole in the frame with painters tape. Peel back the tape, spray inside, put the tape back on. This way none of the paint you are spraying on the inside of the frame escapes. After 3 cans the inside of your frame rails and cross members will be totally covered in rust proof paint. How’s that for preservation ? The frame is the only part you can’t easily replace. Preserve that first.
Last edited by Sam Latone; 12-10-2017 at 05:22 PM.
#37
Thanks for Tailgate Stopper Clips!
Thanks for Tailgate Stopper Clips!
Got mine and installed them yesterday, Easy, and Toyota Parts Deal is Local!
Got OEM air filter and oil filters as well...
Got mine and installed them yesterday, Easy, and Toyota Parts Deal is Local!
Got OEM air filter and oil filters as well...
#38
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Nothing going on here. When I have some time off I'll begin testing things on the 4Runner. I'll post updates then.
#39
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Whoa! whoa! Do you have more info on this? I was considering trying a later model Toyota valve I bought that has electrical and water connections but the electrical seems to be a stepper motor, requires +12 and -12V, so I don't think it will work.
Now if you open up the original IACV you can get a small amount of adjustment out of it(to ensure it closes) and you can replace the spring if it is bad. A chevy points type ignition spring seems to be a good option. I've explored it but have not had to use it because I successfully adjusted my IACV
Now if you open up the original IACV you can get a small amount of adjustment out of it(to ensure it closes) and you can replace the spring if it is bad. A chevy points type ignition spring seems to be a good option. I've explored it but have not had to use it because I successfully adjusted my IACV
It's a real PITA to get to the IACV clean and test it yourself for free.
Old style vs. new style IACV
You can also convert your current intake to the newer style and in turn you get a better more reliable IACV. It can still get clogged and fail but is more readily available for sale online.
https://22reperformance.com/intake-e...trol-valve-iac
It's definitely not a $400 replacement so long as you do the work yourself.
As for cleaning and testing the IACV you currently have
Old style vs. new style IACV
You can also convert your current intake to the newer style and in turn you get a better more reliable IACV. It can still get clogged and fail but is more readily available for sale online.
https://22reperformance.com/intake-e...trol-valve-iac
It's definitely not a $400 replacement so long as you do the work yourself.
As for cleaning and testing the IACV you currently have
#40
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Whoa! whoa! Do you have more info on this? I was considering trying a later model Toyota valve I bought that has electrical and water connections but the electrical seems to be a stepper motor, requires +12 and -12V, so I don't think it will work.
Now if you open up the original IACV you can get a small amount of adjustment out of it(to ensure it closes) and you can replace the spring if it is bad. A chevy points type ignition spring seems to be a good option. I've explored it but have not had to use it because I successfully adjusted my IACV
Now if you open up the original IACV you can get a small amount of adjustment out of it(to ensure it closes) and you can replace the spring if it is bad. A chevy points type ignition spring seems to be a good option. I've explored it but have not had to use it because I successfully adjusted my IACV