whats the easiest way to get to the top bellhousing bolts out? from the top or lowering the engine and going from underneath?

 

Either use a very long extension with a wobbly socket from underneath, or take the shifters out and go through the floorpan with a medium length extension.... I prefer the underneath method myself...

 

thanks a lot

 

X2 on the long extension, and by long, think 30" or so. And a 1" (or taller) body lift makes all the difference in the world for that job, Also if you have a helper, you can have them guide the long extension and socket onto the bolts through the shifter hole while you apply the torque from behind the trans. You can also unbolt and slightly lower the t-case x-member a few inches for better access.

 

got that done, but now whats the best way to get it back in?
without a tranny jack

 

use yer muscles.. lol it isn't thathard.. having 2 people really helps

i use the reach around the top method... but if i didn't i would use the underneath...

 

the tcase is on it so its kinda heavy

 

Maybe strap the T-case area to the cup area of the jack,.... then, in front, around the bell housing, place a HD ratchet strap to each side of the frame and underneath the trans/BH, then as someone pushes up(or you do) start ratcheting until it's lined up, then carefully start to work the jack forward and up until you have the T-case in place. You can get the Tcase close, first, as the straps fastened to the frame will hold up the trans just fine, then start working the trans into it's slot and start a couple bolts. (As you slide it forward into place, you will have to hit the ratchet a couple times, most likely, or allow a lil play so it can drop, ....either way, ya know?)

BTW, I loosened the bell housing to block bolts(top 2) like you were asking about with an Angled 17MM Shorty and an ovaled piece of pipe as a breaker bar. I've also used a 3/8" drive breaker bar with a VERY snubby socket that my neighbor has. The 17MM angled shorty worked the easiest for me.

 

I picked up one of the add-on trans. supports from Harbor Freight for my floor jack. But w/o that you might be able to rig up a support frame for a floor jack to hold the trans in place (I did the trans and t-cases separate. But with the trans up in close proximity, I was able to bench press it up from beneath. Took 2 or 3 tries to get the feel for lining up the bearing and shaft but it went in easy. Not that hard to stick the t-case on afterwards. I had dual cases so that was a lot heavier and bulky to deal with mated to the trans.

 

I'm not a fan of laying on my back working underneath things. I losen the crossmember bolts for the trans and jack the backend of the transmission/xsfer case up to move those bolts away from the firewall, then just reach in from the top. If you have an EGR delete it makes it real easy to do from the passenger side, but if you're mating the two after a motor swap, just do it before you put on the upper intake, or do it from the drivers side. Little harder, but not impossible.

 

I am doing a clutch job on an 85 4x4 extended cab. All 4 of the lower bell housing bolts are missing. I don't have one as a template. Can anyone tell me the size length and thread pitch?

 

toyo, tell me exactly which ones you need, and I will get under my truck in the morn and tell you what you need to know. Now, granted mine is an '84 carb'd, but maybe its the same.

And for a flatbed like you built, I'll buy you factory Toyota bolts... sounds like a win-win....

 

Haha ok! I need the 4 lost bolts on the bell housing. The two at the very bottom across from each other and the two up from those across from each other. I would post a pick bug I am on my mobile phone

 

The 4 bolts at the bottom of the bell housing that bolt into the plate

 

Is this a W56 you're speaking of, Spearo?

 

Spearo..... I know, you need the lengths... but I just wanted to let you know, Lowe's should have all of them, even the proper lengths! lol. I couldn't believe it, but after trying Home Depot, ACE, OSH, OMGOSH-EVERYONE-ELSE-TOO! lol... I wound up a Lowe's as a last stop, and in their "Auto Section" of bolts/hardward.... they had those M6x..... (1.25??) bolts. On the second one up, passenger side, it's one of the starter bolts as well, right? I needed them for my engine stand... So clearly I got longer ones than OEM specs..... But they had MANYYYYYY sizes.

Just thought I'd share.

PS> I looked just now for a 4crawler write up on bell housing bolt lengths, lol... MAYBE it's there and I just can't find it? lol. I'm SURE the FSM has it, too... but yeah, if you can get a fellow Yotatechie to pull em, that'd be best, right? lol.

 

Thanks chef! Unfortunately the closest lowes is 6 hours south. I might hit up the junk yard this morning. Thanks for the help. Sorry about the thread derail.

 

Toyo, I am headed out to Fastenal right now. I am pulling one out of my truck to compare.

 

True, ...but if you can find someone who has time to or has a motor out that will GIVE YOU THE LENGTHS, ........then, well, you could just order them from Lowes.com, right? I mean, if you're not in a huge hurry, that is. They're NOT cheap, especially from the dealer but not even from Lowes... They're very high grade steel and, well, the size has something to do with it, I'm sure! lol.

BTW< I think they were M6x1.75, not 1.25.... HOWEVER, I know there are a few different sizes on there. The 17MM head bolts are M6, the 14MM are M10 or M8, I believe. Personally, I would hit a known good yard on the phone up, ...then ask them, "Hey, could you pull THESE SPECIFIC bolts for me, ...I'll be right down!" .... Spearo...those are not really something that the buyer needs, ya know? Usually, a buyer has all the bolts, so often they get left behind. Maybe they'd have a rig in there that's not tore into yet, or a trans/motor still attached?

Personally, I'd just call dealerdirectparts.com or toyotapartszone/only.com and have them ship em to me! lol. Couldn't be too much more than Lowes.

 

Oops.... Just saw this^^ GOOD LOOKIN OUT, ROKBLOK! lol.