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Couple of specific water pump questions...

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Old 07-30-2015, 06:30 AM
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Couple of specific water pump questions...

Well, water pump changing procedural type questions....

New to me Tacoma 3.4 with 160k. I know the previous owner. He did a timing belt at 136k. He can't remember if he did the water pump or not. I have had overheating issues when under a load. I am not burning coolant or leaking oil into the cooling system. Nor do I see any coolant residue in the oil filler cap or else where. The radiator cap is venting properly. Local radiator guy suggested the old stand by water pump.

So..... I decided to just change the water pump and tstat AND radiator since a few of the fins looked pretty beat up though I can't seem to find any leaks. Parts are relatively cheap so while I am in there.... Yeah, I am throwing parts at it.

To the point:

1. It looks as though I can just remove the top TB idler pulley and get the water pump. Is this accurate? Or do I have to pull the belt all the way (remove the crank bolt? bottom cover, etc)

2. I ask because when I was trying to break the crank bolt loose, I accidentally jumped the belt by two teeth. - I only have a camshaft holder - I was not yet at TDC - I am now. The question is do I need move the belt back over two teeth or does it matter?

3. Speaking with a local toyota guy - he recommended going with a 170 tstat since we have several 100+F days a year and I tow a lot. So I ordered one. I noticed it does not have the little pin/hole in it like the current one does. I assume since this is not a 180 degree tstat? It is a stant and was recommended direct part number as good to go in the 5VZ. And part two question, IF I DID have a tstat with the little pin/hole would it be oriented at 12:00 or 6:00 installed? (I have read it both ways) - I should note the current one was oriented at about 2:30.

4. I could air impact the crank bolt off but I am more concerned with torquing it back properly. What tool do you recommend? I would make one but I just do not have time - seriously. I have three little kids and my wife does not get home till past bedtime. I get to work on this truck between 7pm and 8pm (bedtime) - I know - Mr. Mom over here.

Thanks for helping out!


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Old 07-30-2015, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by TJWilly View Post
Well, water pump changing procedural type questions....

New to me Tacoma 3.4 with 160k. I know the previous owner. He did a timing belt at 136k. He can't remember if he did the water pump or not. I have had overheating issues when under a load. I am not burning coolant or leaking oil into the cooling system. Nor do I see any coolant residue in the oil filler cap or else where. The radiator cap is venting properly. Local radiator guy suggested the old stand by water pump.

So..... I decided to just change the water pump and tstat AND radiator since a few of the fins looked pretty beat up though I can't seem to find any leaks. Parts are relatively cheap so while I am in there.... Yeah, I am throwing parts at it.

To the point:

1. It looks as though I can just remove the top TB idler pulley and get the water pump. Is this accurate? Or do I have to pull the belt all the way (remove the crank bolt? bottom cover, etc)

2. I ask because when I was trying to break the crank bolt loose, I accidentally jumped the belt by two teeth. - I only have a camshaft holder - I was not yet at TDC - I am now. The question is do I need move the belt back over two teeth or does it matter?

3. Speaking with a local toyota guy - he recommended going with a 170 tstat since we have several 100+F days a year and I tow a lot. So I ordered one. I noticed it does not have the little pin/hole in it like the current one does. I assume since this is not a 180 degree tstat? It is a stant and was recommended direct part number as good to go in the 5VZ. And part two question, IF I DID have a tstat with the little pin/hole would it be oriented at 12:00 or 6:00 installed? (I have read it both ways) - I should note the current one was oriented at about 2:30.

4. I could air impact the crank bolt off but I am more concerned with torquing it back properly. What tool do you recommend? I would make one but I just do not have time - seriously. I have three little kids and my wife does not get home till past bedtime. I get to work on this truck between 7pm and 8pm (bedtime) - I know - Mr. Mom over here.

Thanks for helping out!


1. You can't just take the idler off to remove the water pump, don't we all wish it was that simple haha

2. Actually, you DO have to move it 2 teeth back... the cam timing will be off and may cause some drivability problems actually, and it's pretty simple actually, just align the crank to top dead making sure the one cam that didn't slip is aligned to top dead also (but if that get's confusing, take your distributor cap off ((if it's not DIS)) and make sure the rotor is facing #1 cylinder), then you can take the belt off and align everything on top dead... by the way, the mark on both cam sprockets will face 10-11 oclock and 1 or 2 oclock i believe.

3. If your 170 degree thermostat doesn't have a pin hole, then you shouldn't be concerned about which way it faces, right? but if you need to know, it usually faces towards the top so the bubbles could bleed out the top, if you know what i mean hehe

4. The best tool that i use is one that screws on to the front of the crank and a prybar looking piece connects to that tool in the front... OR you could use what they call a chain wrap...

any other questions, feel free to ask!
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:21 AM
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Ok... many thanks for the reply.

1. Drat.

2. Well currently the two marks on the cams are pointed directly up towards the TDC marks. I couldn't quite see the bottom mark on the crank as light ran out on me. I'll check that and revisit your reply to make sure I understand correctly.

3. True - I was just wondering in case I was directed to put the 180 back in. Thanks for the clarification.

4. This?

Amazon.com: Schley Products 64400 - Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool - - Schley Products - 64400: Everything Else Amazon.com: Schley Products 64400 - Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool - - Schley Products - 64400: Everything Else

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Old 07-30-2015, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by TJWilly View Post
Ok... many thanks for the reply.

1. Drat.

2. Well currently the two marks on the cams are pointed directly up towards the TDC marks. I couldn't quite see the bottom mark on the crank as light ran out on me. I'll check that and revisit your reply to make sure I understand correctly.

3. True - I was just wondering in case I was directed to put the 180 back in. Thanks for the clarification.

4. This?

Amazon.com: Schley Products Inc 64300 Lexus And Toyota Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool: Home Improvement
2. yes, make sure of all things your crank is facing the TDC mark on the timing belt cover.

3. I would stick the 180 back in, only because I have a feeling it's not the water pump causing your over heating problem... it's rare that a pump would cause it...

4. nope, that's not the right tool
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Old 07-30-2015, 10:58 AM
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http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0996b43f/80/20/5a/23/medium/0996b43f80205a23.gif

this tool
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Old 07-31-2015, 07:26 AM
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Didn't get a chance to look at the truck yesterday. Kids kept me busy. I'll try today when I get them squared away. I hate it when projects drag out. Thks.
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Old 07-31-2015, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TJWilly View Post
Didn't get a chance to look at the truck yesterday. Kids kept me busy. I'll try today when I get them squared away. I hate it when projects drag out. Thks.
not a problem, everyone's busy, that's life, we'll be here
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